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Ok i have a 350 chev in my patrol, has a good flowing 4 core radiator checked today, AU thermo's, another new thermostat, new water pump, new sump full of new oil, has plenty of oil pressure
Had it at the mechanic's getting oil seals replaced as i'm too busy at the moment with work & now it keeps overheating,
i had intake manifold, rocker covers & sump gaskets done
And idea what else i can check, water seems to flow through block ok so this has got me stumped, i'm half considering putting the old water pump on but this one has been on for a few months now & proven itself ok
Ok i have a 350 chev in my patrol, has a good flowing 4 core radiator checked today, AU thermo's, another new thermostat, new water pump, new sump full of new oil, has plenty of oil pressure
Had it at the mechanic's getting oil seals replaced as i'm too busy at the moment with work & now it keeps overheating,
i had intake manifold, rocker covers & sump gaskets done
And idea what else i can check, water seems to flow through block ok so this has got me stumped, i'm half considering putting the old water pump on but this one has been on for a few months now & proven itself ok
cheers
Andrew
I would check that they didnt screw the timing up a bit when they were changing the gaskets
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
timing seems good although have tried several setting's, like said previously has a brand new thermostat, tried 2 different one's so not the issue, has AU thermo's which are working 100% & are built into a shroud, its got me stumped, i wanna go driving
the thermostat was working fine & then i put another in another which is a 71deg the previous was a 82 deg i'm thinking maybe along the lines of water pump because if i put my hand behind thermo's i can't hold it there because they are sucking so much heat outta the radiator which makes me say that the radiator works fine & also the thermostat
Big Red Toy wrote:the thermostat was working fine & then i put another in another which is a 71deg the previous was a 82 deg i'm thinking maybe along the lines of water pump because if i put my hand behind thermo's i can't hold it there because they are sucking so much heat outta the radiator which makes me say that the radiator works fine & also the thermostat
Did it only start overheating after the gaskets etc were changed ??
If there is mucho heat in the rad I would say that the pump is OK as well ... the water is getting pished there by something ...
Pop the thermostat is a pot of water on the stove and see if it opening up..
I still think its an adjustement.. could be running to lean as well if all the vac lines were not put back right..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Did i read correct in saying it started to happen when i got back from the Mechanics?
if so,Surprise surpirse . Its probably something like timing fuel mix or vac lines im guessing. Who knows. My cars dont go to mechanics anymore. Especially " Gas specialists"
one said my chev is worn out. turned out the intake manifold was leaking on the inside valley when warm causing a miss fire. Another fine example was when i took my 4 runner with new 22r to gas specialist ( best in wagga wagga) for setup. Ran super hot. Looked at dizzy and found it was advanced all the way. Backed off halfway and it goes heaps better and now run hot rarely. thats the gas mix for sure as i can get much more out of a tank of gas. which isnt always a bad thing now is it
Experts eh. thats what Places like Outer is for. We all offer our 2 cents. You pick which one you like and the rest get their money back.
Check the thermostat which came out - if the "original" is faulty there's no guarantee the "new" one is any better.
If you can get to the front of the radiator, does the whole core feel about the same temperature? Any hot or cold spots could indicate a problem with the core...
I've also heard a theory that a "too high" flow means coolant isn't in the radiator long enough to cool properly, so heat doesn't transfer out of the engine properly. Not sure I believe it, but I can't disprove it either.
How quickly does it overheat?..... within 2k's or with in 50 ??? Will help in diagnosis
Have you double checked the vac lines as yet ?
Have you checked the dizzy for correct timing ?
What gasket set did they use?? some of the cheaper ones are shyte and reduce the water flow from the heads through to the inlet manifold.
Unlikely but ..... did they plug the thremo fans back in correctly ??? I've seen a qualified guy wire em in so they run backwards and therefore are trying to push the air out the front of the car !!!
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
within about 5mins. Borrowed a pressure tester today, pressure is good till about 80 deg then BAM up she go's!!!!
So i've decided radiator is coming out & getting end caps pulled off & given a good reaming, vac lines are good & yeah checked timing all seems good
Gasket's are from Eagle spare's so SHOULD be good but so should the sump which needed massagin.
Check your vacuum advance is working, my vehicle was overheating with it disconnected and it took me ages to work out why. I even bought a new radiator (luckily it needed it anyway ) . Apparently retarded timing causes big problems with over heating.
Also, reducing the percentage of coolant mixed in with your water will help it run cooler. I'm running straight distilled water at the moment to see what effects it has (did it prior to discovering the vacuum problem) and it does run cooler than the 50:50 mix I previously had. Obviously you wouldn't want to do that long term!
Something like Redline Water Wetter may also help? Supposedly you can run that with straight water and no coolant without corrosion problems- plus it helps even straight water to transfer heat even better.
well radiator is out & it flows great i was hoping that was the problem
Dizzy has no vac advance as its a hei job & has never needed one
Going to drop the radiator into a shop near work just for the hell of it so the "pro's" can check it for me & maybe sugest something else otherwise i'll try kicking it cos all else has failed
well cars!!!!
still getting warm had the radiator done but they said it was in perfect nick!
Plenty of oil & oil pressure, plenty of coolant, water pump new & working , thermostat new & working, Au thermo's always on & working perfect, this is fawked
The only reason i ask about the inlet gaskets is because i know some one who put them on back the front and covered up the water passage (or something like that) and motor ran real hot, i think it was a holden v8
nah fair enough it's going back to the mechanic to be fixed, he'll i'm trying to get my car ready to do the pajero challenge & thats 24hr's of driving so i kinda want it fixed now so it'll run well
cheers
i couldne be bothered reading all the other posts mate but being a mechanic myself id be checking the inlet manifold gaskets are correct ive seen it done afew times but mainly on 308s and it gets hot so id stronly recomend ya check that out mate
I had a leaking radiator fixed recently. Since reinstalling everything my 1UZ kept getting hot in any situation. After lots of worrying and questions, I ended up checking for an air lock.
Dunno about Chevs, but the 1UZ has a bleed point above the thermostat. I simply cracked this open when it was cool, and low and behold I see air. I filled it up (only like 50ml max) then took it for a ten minute drive with the heater on..... Vwallah problem solved, after all my worrying.
Just an idea anyway.... Someone back up the top asked about the height of your filler point. They're right in what they were getting at, check for an airlock!
i know it sounds silly but a mate had a 350 clevland motor in his shorty he fitted a after market water pump and the eng ran way hot
replaced the after market water pump with a genuine ford water pump and problem solved
there was something different between the 2 designs of water pumps
just a sugestion
Big Red Toy wrote:A delco-remy HEI dizzy, no vac advance on it when i bought the car , treid it with one but made no difference, stupid cars i'm taking up knitting
I have a 350 chev years ago with the factory HEI (the big ugly one) and it had a vac advance?
maybe it has been removed on yours.
Would make it run hot without one!
Rich
up she go's!!!!
) . Apparently retarded timing causes big problems with over heating.
