Hi all,
A mate has started a 2" body lift on his Toyota FJ40 shorty and now is stuck with the steering shaft not lining up as it is verry short due to the wheel base.
Its not just a mater of extending the shaft like on the Hilux ect.
Has anyone had any experience with this ?
He needs it to be safe and legal if possable.
Any sugestions or info links ???
Kev.
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FJ40 body lift query.
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
FJ40 body lift query.
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
That was my first thought when i looked at it but it looks like the steering arm (drag link ?) will hit the inside of the steering box chassis mount and also the shock absorber.
Will this be a problem or do most get away with it ?
Will this be a problem or do most get away with it ?
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
Cheap and bodgey way would be to use a few of the rubber mounts where the steering shaft from the steering wheel bolts onto the steering box. I've seen this done using thick conveyer belt rubber as well. When i did mine on my old 45 series i got some 60 series parts from the wreckers and used a splined slip coupling and uni joint. The uni joint fitted onto the steering box and the other end of the uni joint had a splined slip joint which was welded to the shaft from the steering wheel. This allowed both for movement and algular misalignment to a certain extent although i also had to relocate the hole in the firewall (lower it) to line the steering shaft up with the steering box. My local rego authority wanted the weld x rayed and certified!!!
Tojo wrote:Cheap and bodgey way would be to use a few of the rubber mounts where the steering shaft from the steering wheel bolts onto the steering box.
This is what we did to the old Hilux to extend the shaft but the 40's shaft doesn't line up.
Tojo wrote: i also had to relocate the hole in the firewall (lower it) to line the steering shaft up with the steering box. My local rego authority wanted the weld x rayed and certified!!!
We are hoping not to do a cut & shut as id worry about it being safe with large tyres.
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
Tojo wrote:Cheap and bodgey way would be to use a few of the rubber mounts where the steering shaft from the steering wheel bolts onto the steering box. I've seen this done using thick conveyer belt rubber as well.
the angle on a 40 series becomes to big to use this method, and even if it did line up which it doesnt the leverage on the rag joint would be immense!
Last edited by bj on roids on Mon Aug 18, 2003 7:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
hands and mums dont count!!!
Ive spaced the box, up one inch and added spacers, to the shaft. (fast but not recommmended, we needed it that weekend)
Ive cut the firewall and dropped the column a little. (best way to go if keeping the stock steering)
You can space the shaft if it has stock power steering, and your body lift does not exceed 1"
The preferred method is this:
60 series steering box. that way you can have anything from no body lift to 8 or 9" and the shaft has enough slip. Also gives the power steering option cheaper than stock, and makes the vehicle handle far better than stock.
Ive cut the firewall and dropped the column a little. (best way to go if keeping the stock steering)
You can space the shaft if it has stock power steering, and your body lift does not exceed 1"
The preferred method is this:
60 series steering box. that way you can have anything from no body lift to 8 or 9" and the shaft has enough slip. Also gives the power steering option cheaper than stock, and makes the vehicle handle far better than stock.
hands and mums dont count!!!
the angle on a 40 series becomes to big to use this method, and even if it did line up which it doesnt the leverage on the rag joint would be immense!
This is why i said it was bodgey. But i have seen someone do this and drive around with this setup! Depending where you live, your preferred method can be very expensive. I was quoted over $1000 for a secondhand reconditioned 60 series box from my local 4wd wreckers. That doesn't include column or shafts. My current 40 series has standard steering but eventually i'd like to go to a 60 or 75 series box. IF you can afford it i'd recomend what BJ said to do. Better, stronger and safer.
bj on roids wrote:Ive spaced the box, up one inch and added spacers, to the shaft. (fast but not recommmended, we needed it that weekend)
Ive cut the firewall and dropped the column a little. (best way to go if keeping the stock steering)
Another option is to get the column mount bracket from an FJ55 (both pieces - you will see what I mean). It lifts the steering wheel slightly and drops the rag joint end enough to line up. Takes 5 minutes to swap. I have 2" body lift with a 1" spacer under the steering box.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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check my first post 
Hey fellas.
I'm sick to death of my 33" BFG AT's scrubbing in the guards of my BJ (long live the 3ltr). I'm keen to a 2-3 inch bodylift in.
Firstly, a question for BJ on Roids.
Is it possable to run a 60 series steering box without all the power-steering non-sense that goes with it. If yes, would the steering then be really heavy (its already heavy enough).
Secondly, to everyone. Is there anyone out there who is looking to offload a bodylift for a 40. Even just the extended bolts would do nicely, then I'll make the blocks myself.
Cheers.
I'm sick to death of my 33" BFG AT's scrubbing in the guards of my BJ (long live the 3ltr). I'm keen to a 2-3 inch bodylift in.
Firstly, a question for BJ on Roids.
Is it possable to run a 60 series steering box without all the power-steering non-sense that goes with it. If yes, would the steering then be really heavy (its already heavy enough).
Secondly, to everyone. Is there anyone out there who is looking to offload a bodylift for a 40. Even just the extended bolts would do nicely, then I'll make the blocks myself.
Cheers.
Hey fellas.
I'm sick to death of my 33" BFG AT's scrubbing in the guards of my BJ (long live the 3ltr). I'm keen to a 2-3 inch bodylift in.
Firstly, a question for BJ on Roids.
Is it possable to run a 60 series steering box without all the power-steering non-sense that goes with it. If yes, would the steering then be really heavy (its already heavy enough).
Secondly, to everyone. Is there anyone out there who is looking to offload a bodylift for a 40. Even just the extended bolts would do nicely, then I'll make the blocks myself.
Cheers.
I'm sick to death of my 33" BFG AT's scrubbing in the guards of my BJ (long live the 3ltr). I'm keen to a 2-3 inch bodylift in.
Firstly, a question for BJ on Roids.
Is it possable to run a 60 series steering box without all the power-steering non-sense that goes with it. If yes, would the steering then be really heavy (its already heavy enough).
Secondly, to everyone. Is there anyone out there who is looking to offload a bodylift for a 40. Even just the extended bolts would do nicely, then I'll make the blocks myself.
Cheers.
Da Krusha wrote:Hey fellas.
I'm sick to death of my 33" BFG AT's scrubbing in the guards of my BJ (long live the 3ltr). I'm keen to a 2-3 inch bodylift in.
Firstly, a question for BJ on Roids.
Is it possable to run a 60 series steering box without all the power-steering non-sense that goes with it. If yes, would the steering then be really heavy (its already heavy enough).
Secondly, to everyone. Is there anyone out there who is looking to offload a bodylift for a 40. Even just the extended bolts would do nicely, then I'll make the blocks myself.
Cheers.
Try a Bundera non power steering box, steering will be on par for heaviness factor, but will drive nicer and be more reliable due to less relay rods. If you are going to all the effort and expense of such a conversion the power steering portion of it is only going to be an extra couple of dollars and a few more hours.
Cut the rear guards, you can fit 33s without a worry!
hands and mums dont count!!!
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