Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hello guys,
I saw a lot of BJ/FJ40 rigs on 35" or bigger tyers.Are they a stock diffs or some strnghtnend parts inside them?Is it possible that are toyota's diff's so much stonger that rover unit's.
cheers
Tihomir

cv's are the weakest point. heat treateds are fairly cheap (through haltech), altho a sensibly driven 40 with 35's shouldn't NEED them... their nice to have so the strenghts there if you need it.

pinions fail occasionally and so do the earlier freewheeling hubs, but yes they are so much stronger than rover diffs

bad_religion_au wrote:cv's are the weakest point. heat treateds are fairly cheap (through haltech), altho a sensibly driven 40 with 35's shouldn't NEED them... their nice to have so the strenghts there if you need it.

pinions fail occasionally and so do the earlier freewheeling hubs, but yes they are so much stronger than rover diffs

Toy cv's are not as strong as rover in standard form, centers and axels are a lot stronger in toy's.

Maggot4x4 wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:cv's are the weakest point. heat treateds are fairly cheap (through haltech), altho a sensibly driven 40 with 35's shouldn't NEED them... their nice to have so the strenghts there if you need it.

pinions fail occasionally and so do the earlier freewheeling hubs, but yes they are so much stronger than rover diffs

Toy cv's are not as strong as rover in standard form, centers and axels are a lot stronger in toy's.

i thought it depended on the model of rover, with the 110 cv's being uber tuff, and standard disco ones being relatively weak.

point is that yota diffs/ axles can cop a 35.

Ive had 35s on standard diffs for over 6 months and only just buggered a rear axle and spider gear (through driver error). Mates have run 35s for years and not had too many probs. As stated the biggest risk comes from the CVs. I rate broken CVs as the price of good wheeling. Go for it. You should be fine