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Hey guys/girls I just recently purchased a new suspension kit from Rangie spares that came with 16.20" 180PSI springs for front and 16.80" 270PSI springs for rear.
I got the front springs in and am not happy the height gain is basically just to compensate for the sag of the old springs. I took the rear springs out and they are taller than the new ones sent up to replace them.
I deffinately say they are to short. But I am generally happy to stay with softer springs. Heres what i am thinking any comments welcome
19.60" 270PSI rear
19.40" 220PSI front
The main thing I am worried about is the rear sitting up noticably higher than the front. My RR has no bullbar and no rear bar and still running single battery, so it will stand pretty tall for now but I am intending on fitting an ARB front and rear bar and wheel carrier. So that will pull it all down alittle bit.
you really should get all the other stuff done first and do your suspension last.
this will allow you to get the height you want
the spring lengths you are talking about getting are to long
talk to RS... they will sort it out for you
Well they might be long but I think that is what i am after as the 16.80" were just too damn short and I got a set of 265/75 BFG MUDS to fit under it after i cut the guards. I know that the springs will still compress and the tyre will still rub but it will be alot tougher to get the tyre right up there and I am also gonna increase upper bumpstops to prevent full on compression.
I have a 30% extra articulation kit that is fitted and alows abit more drop from the rear trailing arms and I am looking for about 6.5" between my rear bump stops and about 6" between my front bump stops, and according to other spring hieght differences these spring shoudl get me around that height. I am gonna take the car into a Land Rover RR specialist as soon as its all on and in to get the castor corected and hopefully modified front and rear linkages.
andrew told me the other day that the new bilsteins had not arrived yet...what shocks are you using
andrew (RS) has spent many hours setting up rangies for what you want to do...talk to him... let him know that the car is sitting too high at the rear... when you put a softer spring in the rear or add some weight, the front will lift up... the 270's in the rear - i suppose green and white's are too heavy for the car without the carrier and bar
put all your accessories on first then sort the springs out... you are doing it the wrong way round
yes whites and reds thats correct and they are much to short, I have spoke with Andrew and he seems to understand what I want. I want softer springs with good length to them cause then i still get good compression and I have less chance of the dam things falling out of place when the axle drops that extra bit. I have jacked the axle to a full twist angle and got measurements and going buy the spring that are in there have calculated (roughly) the sizes and compressed lengths of springs of around 19.5inches and it seems to me they will be all good.
When I can afford the front and rear bar I will fitt them at the same time, they wont make to much difference to the height just bring it down a little bit.
the thing is there is a height that I am trying to obtain. The longer springs are good for my articulation and goin up six inches (i dont think it will be that much) is not a worry to me.
I am waiting on Andrews call right now as he is sending the reinforced ball joint today and i wanted him to wait and send it with the springs when they are ready. I might giove him a buz right now but I still want the big springs................... Isnt anyone gonna back me up on this one
I was exadurating the 6" but it will be close to five and yes I am gonna get the drivelines checked and adjusted along with the castor. One thing to note is that this is not to be a onroad (bitumen) style car it is to be an offorad (rough, rocky, articulated) vehicle. I already no how much of a shit fight a lifted Rangie can be on the road (following the foot steps of my father) but its nuthing that a bit of correction and careful driving cant fix
And the springs are fairly soft so most of the external length will be soaked up once fitted.
Ow and i just measure the whites (ment to be 16.80") there only 14.5" tall thats probably why the damn thing still looks the same. And as for the fronts there only 14.6 or so. The car just looks like it has had new springs put in it to compensate for the old sagged springs, thats not the look i was after.
Yes I had a gezza at the front driveline and its fine goin into the diff but where it comes out of the transfer case its looks abit sharp, as for the rear it looks worse where it goes into the diff and for the bump steer I think i will be fiting duel steering shocks, whats the best method to reduce vibes from my driveline??? Are there better UV that i can replace mine with??? that would be the easiest option.
The reason is I see toyotas lifted with 6inches nIssans with 6inches JEEP WRANGLERS with 6inches but when it comes to Rangies everyone steps back, except for the odd OFFROAD weapon rangies you see in the tuff truck challenge and everynow and then some mean RRs are spotted at Lancrusier Mountain Park.
I like the movement and ease of articulation you can get out of long soft springs. I think that the 19plus inch springs will give me about 4-5inches of lift and that will settle alittle bit as the years go by
So if anyone has upgrade UV options that they would like to put forward to me it would be greatfully appreciated. (what is a double cardon joint, i think i have herd some thing about these as UVs in the 4wd monthly mag)
sorry In regards to the shock they are expected at the end of this month the RR is currently not drivable and I have taken the oppourtunity to clean up under the car and am considering painting the chassis and diff to clean it all up as I put the new 30% articulation kit (that also needed slight modifications) and get the rims powder coated in black (not sure when that will be done but I figured I may aswell do this sort of things while she is off the road, also gives me time to fit the Flare kit (hopefully I can get it abit cheaper so as it all fits into my DEBT budget )
It seems the more i spend and the more time i lay under my RR the more money i wanna throw into it, just gotta hold myself back and stop spending so much time just laying under there with the cold beers making absolutely no progress (lucky I dont have a handbrake otherwise she would be jeolous, unlucky I drink Coronas cause the damn cases are expensive)
Have you actually thought about what you are trying to achieve with the big(ish) lift? If you want a maller, go ahead and put a 3 inch + lift in - it would look pretty good.
BUT if you are doing this to 4wd in perhaps you should think about how it will WORK as opposed to how it will LOOK. Remember that any lift increases your COG - suspension lifts more so than body lifts. The trick is to lift it the least amount to achieve the best performance. To clear bigger tyres (33"+), IMO a body lift is the first thing to be done.
For actual trail performance (which i assume is what you're after) a 2" lift will in most situations, outperform a lift greater than 3". You start to have load transfer problems when climbing (the front will not be get traction) as well as the increased chance of rolling over. Have a look on Pirate in the LR section for discussion of the related problems with big lifts in regard to weight transfer).
It looks like you have/will spend a lot of money on your rig - the last thing you would want to do is have rollover and write it off coz you won't get your money back!
Below is the correct set up for both single ui and double cardan set ups.
With a conventional two joint drive shaft you need to keep the out-put of the transfer case & the pinion parallel within 1 degree, and in relationship to either the drive shaft should be running at absolutely no greater than 15 degrees ( this is a pushed limit).
If you can not fall within this parameter, then you will want to pitch the differential so that the pinion points directly at the out-put of the transfer case (maintaining 3 degrees or less joint angle at the differential end) & run a double cardan (C.V.) drive shaft.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
yeah you guys are great and lots of feedback is always good for me but i still like the idea of having about 8" rear bump stop clerance and 7" front.
So really I am after about a five inch lift (it will eventually settle to around four inches) And I generally steer clear of any real steep side slopes as I have been in two slow rollovers and one high speed rollover and neither of them were very fun. I personally am ok with sharp angles but i think the passengers safety and comfort is always important (thats why usually I tell them to get out) but i still generally wont do anything real ruff/dangerous unless I am 100% cool with the terain, my truck & myself.
Most of my time is spent at landcruiser park or out the back of ormaue (wouldnt have clue how to spell it).
I just like the lifted rangies I have seen and my father had a rangie lifted around 4.5" and it was really good (as far as I can remember, i was only young) he doesnt like body lifts either I guess I got it from him
I think it is pretty hard to roll a 4WD and most of the time it is driver error (or a tyre punchuring at 70plus k/h on a slippery dirt road) never have I been at fault just in the wrong damn car at the wrong time. My uncle has a new Nissan with about 5 inches of lift it is bloody high and we have had it on some fair angles and it doesnt seem very tippy at all, I guess i am confident with the hieght, just dont want to get too confident cause thats when rollovers occur.
Yeah I thought that was probably just my computer (it always muffs up the pictures)
Um and about the next time we go out to LCMP I am trying to round up some mates for the outerlimits weekend we were just there two weekends ago and cruiser canyon was really a bore, most of the hard tracks were easy and some of the greens were tuff (it was raining) but abit dissapointed with the canyon. Overall it was a good slippery weekend. Although the RR didnt see much action as I have slicks on it at the moment (cant wait to fit the BFs on the damn thing).
Just so you know, the springs on my 80 are 30" uncompressed and 220lb. This equates to 10" lift.
There is no way in hell I would do this on my Rangie without major a major rework of all the suspension arms and going to High Pinion Diffs, transfercase lowering, double cardon front and rear, 3" wheel spacers and a whole lot more.
My rangie has 35" BFG's with a 2" Coil lift and some guard mods.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
There is no way in hell I would do this on my Rangie without major a major rework of all the suspension arms and going to High Pinion Diffs, transfercase lowering, double cardon front and rear, 3" wheel spacers and a whole lot more.
it is not only the fact that it is unstable, the cost of doing what you want to do is not only springs and shocks to fit...your bilsteins will be too short.... but all the other bits needed to make it drivable and "offroadable" such as radius arms, trailing arms, driveshafts etc. etc.
You are not running particularly large tyres which might also look a little odd You'll have space for 36's ......
Maggot4x4 wrote:Just so you know, the springs on my 80 are 30" uncompressed and 220lb. This equates to 10" lift.
My rangie has 35" BFG's with a 2" Coil lift and some guard mods.
How do you choose which rig to wheel in every weekend?
The 80 is the wife's car now LOL
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
I dont yet want to run bigger than 33s cause I have been told that the diff pinion in the rangies isnt strong enough and when I put such large tyres I will obviosly putting more stress on it all so maybe my next mod will be strengthening stuff up (or upgrade as it breaks sorta process).
