Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Some tips on Sierras
Some tips on Sierras
Hi
I've just signed up at this forum.
I'm currently considering buying a Sierra.
I would prefer a good condition, unmodified later model with lowish kms (dont we all ) but am on a limited budget (around $5000).
I've been looking around the usual car sales sites, and have seen a few in the 96-99 year model range with quite low kms (under 100,000km, some under 90,000km).
Can you guys (and girls) give me some advice on the following:
- common problems
- reliability
- things to look out for when buying second hand sierras
- normal selling price for unmodified low km examples (the asking prices I've seen seem to be a bit high, and also alot higher than what redbook quotes)
- any other tips
Thanks! any help is appreciated!
Chris
I've just signed up at this forum.
I'm currently considering buying a Sierra.
I would prefer a good condition, unmodified later model with lowish kms (dont we all ) but am on a limited budget (around $5000).
I've been looking around the usual car sales sites, and have seen a few in the 96-99 year model range with quite low kms (under 100,000km, some under 90,000km).
Can you guys (and girls) give me some advice on the following:
- common problems
- reliability
- things to look out for when buying second hand sierras
- normal selling price for unmodified low km examples (the asking prices I've seen seem to be a bit high, and also alot higher than what redbook quotes)
- any other tips
Thanks! any help is appreciated!
Chris
for a coil sprung model, unmodified, low k's, expect to pay around 6-8k for, depending on condition, soft top or hard top etc.
I paid 9700 for mine with a few mods and avg kms, but i paid a little too much, but wanted the car.
Problems. Rust, do a thorough search on the car for rust - a very common problem for zooks.
I paid 9700 for mine with a few mods and avg kms, but i paid a little too much, but wanted the car.
Problems. Rust, do a thorough search on the car for rust - a very common problem for zooks.
'04 NP DiD Pajero: 2" Lift, 33's, ARB Bar, XD9000 Winch, Rear ARB Locker, Snorkel, Dual Batts and Much More...
Being new to suzukis, I'm somewhat unfamiliar with the differences across the model range. Is there somewhere you can direct me to that talks about this? The Sierra bible at the top of this forum doesn't seem to cover it.muppet_man67 wrote:most sierras of the years you specified will have a dodgy batch of pistons in them. the pistons usually drop between 100-180,000kms. I think on this forum about half the coiler owners I know of have had this problem.
As the sierra will also be driven most days of the week, it must also be reliable. Which model/year range do you recommend I start with?
Hey...
you been certified as insane yet?
i got a widetrack leaf sprung, 89 model. Rust comes in behind the stoneguard skirts, silly plastic grill on the hoop and under the grillwork between the bonnet and windscreen.
If it's seen a lot of beachwork hope like hell the chassis rails have been flushed well and regularly.
Almost all soft and fibreglass tops i've seen leak, so if it's got vinyl in, lift it and check the footwells for rust, also the passenger seat rail mounting points from underneath for stress fractures.
The spare wheel carriers tend to stress fracture if they've had larger than factory tyres hanging off them.
Check the underbody for scrapes and dings to give you an idea of how much rockhopping it has done... for your purposes it's better if it's clean, then you can do all the damage!
Oh... and try looking in Qld, prices are cheaper up here and it's a good excuse for a holiday when you come pick it up!
Spock
you been certified as insane yet?
i got a widetrack leaf sprung, 89 model. Rust comes in behind the stoneguard skirts, silly plastic grill on the hoop and under the grillwork between the bonnet and windscreen.
If it's seen a lot of beachwork hope like hell the chassis rails have been flushed well and regularly.
Almost all soft and fibreglass tops i've seen leak, so if it's got vinyl in, lift it and check the footwells for rust, also the passenger seat rail mounting points from underneath for stress fractures.
The spare wheel carriers tend to stress fracture if they've had larger than factory tyres hanging off them.
Check the underbody for scrapes and dings to give you an idea of how much rockhopping it has done... for your purposes it's better if it's clean, then you can do all the damage!
Oh... and try looking in Qld, prices are cheaper up here and it's a good excuse for a holiday when you come pick it up!
Spock
www.pointnshoot.org
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
I've been looking for several weeks as well and you'll have to be extrememly lucky to find one even close to redbooks prices.
For a low km 1996+ you probably won't find anything under 6k. Most of the ones I've been seeing over the last month are in the 7-9.5k range and that's what it looks like I'm going to have to pay for a tidy Sierra.
If you hang out long enough, you'll be able to grab a bargain but if you're like me, you'll start getting impatient with the money sitting in the bank and crap all to do with it!
Me want Sierra now! Me going crazy!
For a low km 1996+ you probably won't find anything under 6k. Most of the ones I've been seeing over the last month are in the 7-9.5k range and that's what it looks like I'm going to have to pay for a tidy Sierra.
If you hang out long enough, you'll be able to grab a bargain but if you're like me, you'll start getting impatient with the money sitting in the bank and crap all to do with it!
Me want Sierra now! Me going crazy!
S1 R33 Gts-t: ITS T04e, Wolf3dv4, 16psi - 242rwkw - DEAD (mate flipped it)
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
Dee 4x4 wrote:I've been looking for several weeks as well and you'll have to be extrememly lucky to find one even close to redbooks prices.
For a low km 1996+ you probably won't find anything under 6k. Most of the ones I've been seeing over the last month are in the 7-9.5k range and that's what it looks like I'm going to have to pay for a tidy Sierra.
If you hang out long enough, you'll be able to grab a bargain but if you're like me, you'll start getting impatient with the money sitting in the bank and crap all to do with it!
Me want Sierra now! Me going crazy!
Ask yourself why you want a later model sierra. It looks as if you have a very nice street car already. All sierra are terrible street cars. coilers marginally better due to better noise insulation. the ride advantage once again is marginal. Engine and drivetrain are pretty much the same exept the front end isnt as strong, trasfer case is chain driven(a little quieter) and imho the engines not as reliable.
As an offroad car the coiler has many more obsticles to overcome when building to the way you want it. starting with suspension there is little aftermaket support, and you will likely have to get it all custom don. The configuration of the front shock towers will limits the postential travel. The linkages for an offroad car are too flimsy. I bent a control arm with stock suspension and 235/75/r15 not a hardcore setup by any means. If you strenghthen the linkages then the mounting points may break. (happend to a friend) also due to the 3 link rear end and limited front flex it will pick wheels up lots. you will find that you are always trying to move weight forward on the car to combat this. In summary if its coils you want there is no added benifit, then if you bought a leaf sierra and did a conversion as this is how much work needs doing.
There are still no front lockers readily availabe on the aftermarket. If you were to custom fit one, the cvs might become unreliable.
To my knowlege there are still no aftermarket transfer gear ratios available for the coiler. you could fit a leaf sprung or jimny transfer case and fit gears to that. The coiler lowrange is higher then any other model sierra.
Most of these things will only bother you if you intend to modify. I had an unmodified coiler for 18 months and really enjoyed taking it bush. However for about half of that time I had considerations of selling and buying leaf sprung lwb. which I eventually did.
[url]http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum[/url]
all 1.3 liter engine model sierras seem to have pretty even reliability. (exept for coiler engines) it is only wear and tear factors with the age of them that affects the reliability.kit wrote:Being new to suzukis, I'm somewhat unfamiliar with the differences across the model range. Is there somewhere you can direct me to that talks about this? The Sierra bible at the top of this forum doesn't seem to cover it.muppet_man67 wrote:most sierras of the years you specified will have a dodgy batch of pistons in them. the pistons usually drop between 100-180,000kms. I think on this forum about half the coiler owners I know of have had this problem.
As the sierra will also be driven most days of the week, it must also be reliable. Which model/year range do you recommend I start with?
1 liter sierra engines dont seem to last long.
1.3 liter 1985-87 - The main difference is that they are narrower. hence why they are described as narrowtracks
1.3 liter 1987-96 -wider track makes them more stable. Hard tops came with carpet, air conditioning was an option.
1.3 liter 1996-1998 many things were changed such as coil suspension (why they are called coilers) the interior was significantly upgraded. soft tops didnt have removable windscreens anymore, drivetrain changes to the front diff and transfer case.
1.3 liter 1998-today otherwise known as a jimny. Basicly you get a very similar four wheel drive to the coiler with many added bonuses, including power most things, auto as an option, Fuel Injection, a longer wheel base, a better positioned fuel tank, more interior space, front locker available, after market suspension available, transfer gears available. The big downside is the fit anthing bigget the 30" tire you have to either cut the gaurds or lift the car 8 inches.
[url]http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum[/url]
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Location: in the shed cutting/grinding/welding mocks old shit vic
but at least the gaurd cutting, on a jimny, is only plastic.
if i remove or cut enough plastic out i can fit 33's with a 3-4 inch lift.
Mitch
if i remove or cut enough plastic out i can fit 33's with a 3-4 inch lift.
Mitch
[quote="Gwagensteve"]
nope, apparently I hate suzukis so nobody should be surprised by that :roll:
Steve,[/quote]
[url=http://vic.suzuki4wd.com/]Suzuki 4WD club VIC[/url]
nope, apparently I hate suzukis so nobody should be surprised by that :roll:
Steve,[/quote]
[url=http://vic.suzuki4wd.com/]Suzuki 4WD club VIC[/url]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests