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1983 MQ Nissan Patrol Ute 3.2 Diesel 4 spd
1983 MQ Nissan Patrol Ute 3.2 Diesel 4 spd
Hey,
I'm thinking of buying a Patrol ute that i've been offered... as per the model I have listed above..
First of all I have a few questions about them... And if any of you could possibly shed some light on them it would be GREATLY appreciated!!
1. What would be a good price for one that is in pretty good condition apart from the fact that the clutch needs replacing??
2. How much work is it in changing the clutch? I have already sourced a new kit for about $250 so thats fine. Just wondering about how hard it is to change it over?
3. Finally what is typically an average fuel consumption that these would use?? Like how far do you get out of a tank on average??
Thanks heaps in advance!
Matt
I'm thinking of buying a Patrol ute that i've been offered... as per the model I have listed above..
First of all I have a few questions about them... And if any of you could possibly shed some light on them it would be GREATLY appreciated!!
1. What would be a good price for one that is in pretty good condition apart from the fact that the clutch needs replacing??
2. How much work is it in changing the clutch? I have already sourced a new kit for about $250 so thats fine. Just wondering about how hard it is to change it over?
3. Finally what is typically an average fuel consumption that these would use?? Like how far do you get out of a tank on average??
Thanks heaps in advance!
Matt
Removing the clutch is technically simple but hard work in that the gearbox/transfer case is very heavy. I have removed mine a few times by myself but you have to be careful if you don't have a hoist or proper trolley jack. I gave myself more room to work under the vehicle by putting it on hefty blocks made out of railway sleepers. I also made a trolley out of an old lawnmower chassis and solid wooden blocks bolted together onto which I could lower the gearbox/transfer case and wheel it back from the flywheel. Worked well. It only has to be moved back about a foot to access the clutch. Don't forget to replace the release bearing as well if it is not in your kit.
David
David
Last edited by David_S on Fri May 05, 2006 7:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
To put things in perspective, I paid 3k for my 82 diesel shorty, and it had 8 months rego, a rear air locker, snorkel, 160L fuel tank, arb winch bar, custom rear bar and wheel carrier and roofrack, 240k on the clock and in generally very good nick. but i got a bargain
i get an average of around 15L/100km out of mine, but it weighs in at a little over 2.4T with all the barwork.
If the truck is in good nick, don't let something like a clutch stop you. Does the clutch work at all, or is it completely worn out? My point being that if you can't even test drive it be wary. i got given some good advice when i bought my first car that's stuck with me, when you're buying a 20+ year old car, rust is the biggest killer, especially with 4wds. it's easy to replace a gearbox, or a diff or something, well maybe not easy but much easier than cutting a truckload of rust out of your car.
i get an average of around 15L/100km out of mine, but it weighs in at a little over 2.4T with all the barwork.
If the truck is in good nick, don't let something like a clutch stop you. Does the clutch work at all, or is it completely worn out? My point being that if you can't even test drive it be wary. i got given some good advice when i bought my first car that's stuck with me, when you're buying a 20+ year old car, rust is the biggest killer, especially with 4wds. it's easy to replace a gearbox, or a diff or something, well maybe not easy but much easier than cutting a truckload of rust out of your car.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Re: 1983 MQ Nissan Patrol Ute 3.2 Diesel 4 spd
Depends.......beamn wrote:1. What would be a good price for one that is in pretty good condition apart from the fact that the clutch needs replacing??
Does it come with rego and RWC ?????
How many K's on the clock ??????
How much rust is in it ( read my members thred to see where the cancer sets in )
I've paid as little as $200 for a drivable MQ but on average the other units have set me back around the $400 mark. The most Ive paid out for a MQ is $1000
beamn wrote:2. How much work is it in changing the clutch? I have already sourced a new kit for about $250 so thats fine. Just wondering about how hard it is to change it over?
If you go in there by dropping the gearbox/transfer then expect a heap of ugly work & you'll need a few mates to help or and engine crane.
Best option is to pull the motor out and do it that way ( half the time and lots less agrivation.)...... the gearbo/transfer is fawkin HEAVY !!!
600K's is a 'average figure that most ppl get from a non turbo unit. Some get worse figures and others get much higher figures. I regularly get around 1100K's from a std 80lit tank but I dont thrash the old girl either.beamn wrote:3. Finally what is typically an average fuel consumption that these would use?? Like how far do you get out of a tank on average??
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
deisel clutch hmmmmm not a light thing at all
simply put get 2 other mates with some muscle to help if you are just goin to pull it out. they come apart very easily but gettin them back up and in can be a pain due to the weight
and if you wanna know how long it would take to change the gear box then me and mates pulled my deisel box out and in 3 times in one day we started at 9 and finished at 9 so about 4 hours to pull out and put back in with 2 mates helping
Heath
simply put get 2 other mates with some muscle to help if you are just goin to pull it out. they come apart very easily but gettin them back up and in can be a pain due to the weight
and if you wanna know how long it would take to change the gear box then me and mates pulled my deisel box out and in 3 times in one day we started at 9 and finished at 9 so about 4 hours to pull out and put back in with 2 mates helping
Heath
GIVE IT SOME S**T
my build http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=74420
my build http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=74420
WOW!! thanks so much guys for all your help and advice!!!
First of all perhaps I'll explain things a bit better.. The truck is a friend of mines parents old car.. So I do in fact know the car - anyway the reason the clutch is stuffed is only coz my friend was towing water and didn't know how to drive properly towing so as a result he burnt out the clutch...
At that point they just decided to update and buy a new car, so its just been sitting up in their back shed doin nothing and never got around to fixing it..
Now i've been offered the vehicle for $1000 as is, with no rego, RWC... its a solid truck and everything works so I know there wont be a problem in getting a roadworthy... It's got four practically new good tyres (prob 90/95% tread)... when they were driving it, I kno it used to get looked after well and regularly maintained... I'm not exactly sure of the number of k's, but I do know the motor was fully rebuilt a few years ago and probably has only done like 60,000 k since rebuild - which isn't much for a diesel.
The body's in good nick, paint faded (as expected) it has an aluminium tray (not style side like pictured above), got a nice decent bull bar on it and a towbar... There is a lil bit of rust in the drivers door behind the handle and little bits in the floor - under neath the floor mats.. but not BAD and would't take much to tidy up..
Really, it's just being brought (or may be brought) as a second car to drive around in - so its not going to get HARD 4WD work, main reason is as so i've got something to tow my performance show car while I'm doing stuff to it and need to get it to places.. So I figure if i'm paying for another car so I have something to drive around - it might as well be something useful instead of some old beaten up 4cyl.. that has no use apart from driving around...
Like I said.. I got new clutch kit lined up for $250 through a friend - which is cheap.... So think I might offer them $800 and see what they say... get the clutch done - get RWC done and register the old girl.......
Any further thoughts???
P.S.
Once again thankyou all HEAPS!!
First of all perhaps I'll explain things a bit better.. The truck is a friend of mines parents old car.. So I do in fact know the car - anyway the reason the clutch is stuffed is only coz my friend was towing water and didn't know how to drive properly towing so as a result he burnt out the clutch...
At that point they just decided to update and buy a new car, so its just been sitting up in their back shed doin nothing and never got around to fixing it..
Now i've been offered the vehicle for $1000 as is, with no rego, RWC... its a solid truck and everything works so I know there wont be a problem in getting a roadworthy... It's got four practically new good tyres (prob 90/95% tread)... when they were driving it, I kno it used to get looked after well and regularly maintained... I'm not exactly sure of the number of k's, but I do know the motor was fully rebuilt a few years ago and probably has only done like 60,000 k since rebuild - which isn't much for a diesel.
The body's in good nick, paint faded (as expected) it has an aluminium tray (not style side like pictured above), got a nice decent bull bar on it and a towbar... There is a lil bit of rust in the drivers door behind the handle and little bits in the floor - under neath the floor mats.. but not BAD and would't take much to tidy up..
Really, it's just being brought (or may be brought) as a second car to drive around in - so its not going to get HARD 4WD work, main reason is as so i've got something to tow my performance show car while I'm doing stuff to it and need to get it to places.. So I figure if i'm paying for another car so I have something to drive around - it might as well be something useful instead of some old beaten up 4cyl.. that has no use apart from driving around...
Like I said.. I got new clutch kit lined up for $250 through a friend - which is cheap.... So think I might offer them $800 and see what they say... get the clutch done - get RWC done and register the old girl.......
Any further thoughts???
P.S.
I couldn't find this!!! could somebody put up the link to the thread you're talking about??Depends.......
Does it come with rego and RWC ?????
How many K's on the clock ??????
How much rust is in it ( read my members thred to see where the cancer sets in )
Once again thankyou all HEAPS!!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
For everything you'll even need to know about MQ's & MK's........beamn wrote:I couldn't find this!!! could somebody put up the link to the thread you're talking about??How much rust is in it ( read my members thred to see where the cancer sets in )
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=22197
Members thread.....
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=7890
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Lawrence
In Oz acording to a 1984 brochure I still have the Pickup came with 5.5Fx16SDC wheels and 7.50-16-6/10 rib lug crossply.
More than you ever wanted to know!
David
According to the Nissan Manual for the 160 (MQ) and 61 series (canvastop) the original factory wheels for the Pick-up (ute) were 5.50Fx16SDC ie heavy duty steel rims with locking side ring. The standard tyres were 7.00-16-6PRLT R&L JS75 i.e 7" crossply on 16" rims 6 ply rating Light Truck- don't know what R&L JS75 means except that R&L refers to the pattern (Rib/Lug?) and JS75 refers to the valve size. Options were 7.50-16-6PRLT, 8PRLT and 10PRLT, also 7.50R16C-8PRLT M&S (Radial, Mud & Snow) and 7.50R16C-8PRLT SA (Sand?)Just curious. What tyres are standard on an mq ute?
In Oz acording to a 1984 brochure I still have the Pickup came with 5.5Fx16SDC wheels and 7.50-16-6/10 rib lug crossply.
More than you ever wanted to know!
David
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
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