Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
just lifted my 1992 80 (t diesel) 3 inches. has lovell springs, dobbinson shocks and superior castor plates.
a few questions and issues tho;
1. The steering arm that runs parrellel to, but behind the front dif is extremely close to the control arms, to the point of hitting sometimes. is this normal, i assume its due to the castor plates (5 degrees positive).
2. i would like to re-attach the sway bars to my car so its not as 'boaty'. after doing a bit of research, its hard to find some extensions for the swaybar mounts, (snake racing ones have front ones only for $95) is there rear ones available? anyone have any suggestions here.
3. at about 70 - 80km/h around slight corners the steering wheel shakes pretty bad. my wheels have been balanced and the wheel bearings are properly adjusted. would a new steering dampener fix this? would other things should i try.
1. this is normal for the steering arm to do this, u will prolly find when u articulate it that it does actually rub.. but dont stress
2. I built my own sway bar extensions.. very easy to do.. if ya can weld imn sure u know sumone who can.. u can do 2 things u can space the sway bar dwon from its bracket with a piece of RHS.. thats easy as.. or cut the actual hanger and weld a peice of tube in the middle to drop them down.., if u dont drop them down it will hit ur front t shaft and stuff it, but honestly i wouldnt bother putting hte front one bac in, it makes bugger all difference, the rear one does all the work..
3. The steering damper may help, are u still running the same size tyres u were b4 u lifted it??
Dude
As already stated the steering arm now touches. Just had 5degree plates added to mine and is the same. Also mine was a bit washy so I ree attached the swaybar and noticed the wobble going around bends. When I investigated I found the sway bar limited the travel to allow all the wieght to come off the inside front wheel and put this down to the wobble. Going around roundabouts really fast actually picked up the inside wheel. I fixed it all by dialing up the Tuff dog adjustables and now run no sway bars.
Good Luck and you're not alone.
Jonesy
80 series, Locked both ends, Q78ed & a massive 57 k/w to boot!!!!
woobles? - yet mine has an only one offset 3 degree bush in the front eye and std on rear eye on each arm and i have 3 inch lift. No problems and castor is within spec.
just lifted my 1992 80 (t diesel) 3 inches. has lovell springs, dobbinson shocks and superior castor plates.
a few questions and issues tho;
1. The steering arm that runs parrellel to, but behind the front dif is extremely close to the control arms, to the point of hitting sometimes. is this normal, i assume its due to the castor plates (5 degrees positive).
2. i would like to re-attach the sway bars to my car so its not as 'boaty'. after doing a bit of research, its hard to find some extensions for the swaybar mounts, (snake racing ones have front ones only for $95) is there rear ones available? anyone have any suggestions here.
3. at about 70 - 80km/h around slight corners the steering wheel shakes pretty bad. my wheels have been balanced and the wheel bearings are properly adjusted. would a new steering dampener fix this? would other things should i try.
thanks in advance..
Nik
5 degree plates are way too much for 3" lift.
Extend the rear sway bar drop links 3" . then the rear bar will not restrict travel. Lower the the front sway bar link at least 25mm other wise the tailshaft will rub on sway bar. I have home made disconnects for the front end of sway bar for $40. this will let the front flex more.
cheers JOHNZ
Nick
The steering arm is common....if it concerns you enough, you can take one radius rod off at a time and file off the raised section in the rubbibg area... not too much though, just tidy it up...
The swaybar can be reattatched simply by spacing the body mounts down an inch with a piece of 25mm square tube between the two mounting halves and 2 setscrews an inch longer each side...this will keep the front driveshaft away from the swaybar at full droop.
The steering wheel shake is tyre related.....you have a buckle in a rim or maybe even sepo on a tyre....you may get it under control with a new damper, but the initial cause hasnt been addressed....best to do that.
Andrew
BLC wrote:Hi all
just lifted my 1992 80 (t diesel) 3 inches. has lovell springs, dobbinson shocks and superior castor plates.
a few questions and issues tho;
1. The steering arm that runs parrellel to, but behind the front dif is extremely close to the control arms, to the point of hitting sometimes. is this normal, i assume its due to the castor plates (5 degrees positive).
2. i would like to re-attach the sway bars to my car so its not as 'boaty'. after doing a bit of research, its hard to find some extensions for the swaybar mounts, (snake racing ones have front ones only for $95) is there rear ones available? anyone have any suggestions here.
3. at about 70 - 80km/h around slight corners the steering wheel shakes pretty bad. my wheels have been balanced and the wheel bearings are properly adjusted. would a new steering dampener fix this? would other things should i try.
If you articulate the front (serious 4wd) with the stiffer noelathane, something has to give...and it is usually the diff brackets....not to mention less wheel travel because of the resistance to give...
Andrew
jimbo jones wrote:?
i was told to get the plates regardless because the bushes crack the control arms?
not trueI had a 3" in mine with bushes no problems[/quote]
