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Replacing bushes in rear A frame
Moderator: Micka
Replacing bushes in rear A frame
I need to replace the bushes in the A frame on the Rangie. I just wanted to see if there were any recommendations or hints when doing this.
I guess using the standard bushes is fine?
I thought I would replace the ball joint with a LRA HD ball at the same time, is this worthwhile?
I guess using the standard bushes is fine?
I thought I would replace the ball joint with a LRA HD ball at the same time, is this worthwhile?
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
Its a big PITA! I ended up stripping the entire A-frame to do it. You'll need a press and a the die to press the bushes out needs to be fairly accurate in its fit. The bushes are multishelled but will flex enough to use a flat die to press them in and out.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
geting them out we had to use plenty of heat and a essentially cut the old bushes out with a hacksaw, you can use a hammer and a washer of the right size (doesnt foul the inside casing) to bash them back in, but if you dont drive it in straight it's a PITA!!
ball joints... I've got 110 in mine due to the fact its adj. we've just put a maxi-drive into a mates daily ($180 vs $90 for std) and like all maxi stuff I've seen, it seems bullet proof but you pay for the priveledge.
Simon
ball joints... I've got 110 in mine due to the fact its adj. we've just put a maxi-drive into a mates daily ($180 vs $90 for std) and like all maxi stuff I've seen, it seems bullet proof but you pay for the priveledge.
Simon
I take the A frame arms out 1 at a time - press out old in new fit the arm up then do the other side. This makes it easier to keep them aligned.
Mind you i usually park out side my old mans bearing business and do it there using his press . May be doing them again on Saturday if i get time.
Mind you i usually park out side my old mans bearing business and do it there using his press . May be doing them again on Saturday if i get time.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
I am not 100% adam but the MD ball joints are fully adjustable and rebuildable get one of them and let me know how good they arewalker wrote:Is the Maxi ball the one they sell at LRA?
I have all the other equipment except a good hydraulic press. I have a small hand press. It worked for the trailing arm bushes but might not be strong enough for these bushes from the sound of it.
Oh Well....I do have a REALLY BIG HAMMER!
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
So does everyone recomend standard rubber bushes.
I only ask this because I have always been told rubber bushes are better as they give more flex.
BUT
I have recently been watching as show "A 4x4 is Born" where a guy builds up a 100" Landrover. This is going to have masive flex but he used all poly bushes. He also said he likes the poly bushes because they are easier to get in and out.
I only ask this because I have always been told rubber bushes are better as they give more flex.
BUT
I have recently been watching as show "A 4x4 is Born" where a guy builds up a 100" Landrover. This is going to have masive flex but he used all poly bushes. He also said he likes the poly bushes because they are easier to get in and out.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
Be carefull as the cases bend real easy if you hit to hard / out of allignment. I would just take it to someone or shop who have a press and give them a 6 pack - cheaper than replacing the bushes if you bend the cases (Its a real PITA, Ive bent a few )
Dave.
Dave.
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
Replacing bushes in rear A frame
beware of lra
better to deal with honest people.
Ring Mal @ maxi drive and he will send one down to you.
better to deal with honest people.
Ring Mal @ maxi drive and he will send one down to you.
out of my mind, back soon.
I agree he sold me my axles WAY cheaper the i could get from MD in qldwalker wrote:LOL . Someones not a happy customer.
I don't think they are the cheapest around but I have not had a problem with them yet.
And they sell the ball joint cheaper than maxi-drive does direct.
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Speaking with LRA today and apparently there are "good" bushes and "bad" bushes as far as quality goes. They don't have any in stock at the moment because they have not been able to get any from the only supplier they trust.
But I will try Fred, knowing Fred he will only stock the best anyway.
But I will try Fred, knowing Fred he will only stock the best anyway.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
this will start everyone howling, but if you can't get OE ones, get some Fulcrum/Super Pro ones to fit in the chassis end of the A frame. Easy fit and they work. Very well designed and made. Not all poly sucks.
IMO, their rear lower trailing arm to chassis bush is the best available, way more flex than stock and doesn't flog out.
edit. to fit steel shell bushes, either front or rear you need a big press. The last one I used was a 60 tonner, and according to the guage, I was using 45 tonnes at the ram....
IMO, their rear lower trailing arm to chassis bush is the best available, way more flex than stock and doesn't flog out.
edit. to fit steel shell bushes, either front or rear you need a big press. The last one I used was a 60 tonner, and according to the guage, I was using 45 tonnes at the ram....
300Tdi Defender 130 CC
Well, I fitted the new A-Arm bushes and maxidrive ball joint today.
I have to say thankyou to David for reminding me of Fred Smith. Fred had everything in stock but the biggest surprise was the price.
LRA charge $178 for the maxidrive ball joint alone.
I bought the ball joint and 2 bushes from Fred for $180. Only $140 for the ball joint and $40 for 2 bushes. And in that price he also pressed them into the A-Frame arms for me.
Fred also picked up on another problem. When the bush wears it starts to rotate and wears a gtoove into one end of the bracket that holds the upper end of the A-arm. If I had of just replaced the bush, it would not have held and would have worn very quickly. I just had to fill the groove with the MIG then grind it back flush.
Now the Rangie feels very different and handles a LOT better.
I have to say thankyou to David for reminding me of Fred Smith. Fred had everything in stock but the biggest surprise was the price.
LRA charge $178 for the maxidrive ball joint alone.
I bought the ball joint and 2 bushes from Fred for $180. Only $140 for the ball joint and $40 for 2 bushes. And in that price he also pressed them into the A-Frame arms for me.
Fred also picked up on another problem. When the bush wears it starts to rotate and wears a gtoove into one end of the bracket that holds the upper end of the A-arm. If I had of just replaced the bush, it would not have held and would have worn very quickly. I just had to fill the groove with the MIG then grind it back flush.
Now the Rangie feels very different and handles a LOT better.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
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