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80 series Axel seals (front)
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 series Axel seals (front)
ok guys im a nissan man, but i have a mae of mine who drives an 80 series, it is forever in the shop having continual work done to it,
recently it was in for brakes,
anyway, the front right axel seal is leaking, what i want to know is how big a job is it? is the axel seal in the at the bell end, or is it in further, as he was quoted $800 to fix it up, eventhou it was getting new rotors and they had the wheel bearings out already,
any help would be appreciated, im more than capable of doing the work,
thanks
recently it was in for brakes,
anyway, the front right axel seal is leaking, what i want to know is how big a job is it? is the axel seal in the at the bell end, or is it in further, as he was quoted $800 to fix it up, eventhou it was getting new rotors and they had the wheel bearings out already,
any help would be appreciated, im more than capable of doing the work,
thanks
Inner axle Oil Seal
I am guessing that the oil seal you are talking about is the inner axle oil seal.
I do not believe this is a big job, but that is IMMO. You have to completely remove the CV joint and axle, you do not have to remove the steering knuckle. Once you have removed the brakes, wheel bearing, bearing hub and brake rotar, you need to undo the 8 bolts holding onto the stub axle and you will have access to the CV which you remove by turning until the flat spots are at the top and bottom then slide the axle out. Use a screw driver or what ever to remove the old inner axle oil seal replace and reassemble.
My advice though one you have all this out is to buy a complete hub wiper kit and king pin bearings (100-150 for the complete kit) and change the lot while you are in there. All up it can take anywhere from 1-3 hours a side depending on how well you work and if you have someone cleaning the parts up as you go![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
I do not believe this is a big job, but that is IMMO. You have to completely remove the CV joint and axle, you do not have to remove the steering knuckle. Once you have removed the brakes, wheel bearing, bearing hub and brake rotar, you need to undo the 8 bolts holding onto the stub axle and you will have access to the CV which you remove by turning until the flat spots are at the top and bottom then slide the axle out. Use a screw driver or what ever to remove the old inner axle oil seal replace and reassemble.
My advice though one you have all this out is to buy a complete hub wiper kit and king pin bearings (100-150 for the complete kit) and change the lot while you are in there. All up it can take anywhere from 1-3 hours a side depending on how well you work and if you have someone cleaning the parts up as you go
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
How many k's has it done? check for wear on the spindles, as the mechanic did all the seals didnt change spindles 30k later it was pouring oil all over the wheels etc etc, So dad did it himself changed spindles the lot and havnt had any trouble since. we got all our stuff off Ebay, stuff is brand new cheap as and imo just as good (quality wise)
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Spindles
Changing Spindles bushes are always a good idea, usually about $50 each by memory. One thing to note is that 100 series and late 80 series there was a change from the brass bushes to roller bearings which I think are much better. Any new replacement spindle and bush will be supplied with the roller bearings about $125 again from memory. Not certain if you can place the roller bearings into a spindle that was fitted with a brass bush though...
I now have one of each after distroying a spindle when a CV axle broke ....bugger
I now have one of each after distroying a spindle when a CV axle broke ....bugger
hi its also easier to disconnect the steering from the hub first as it makes it heaps easier to put back together without the steering pulling things around while trying to line up the bolts ect its a bit more work but worth it in the end cos its hard trying to line up everything and still keep the top/botton bearings in place.hope this helps muds
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