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80 series Axel seals (front)

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

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Posts: 4275
Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2002 2:12 pm
Location: Sydney

80 series Axel seals (front)

Post by ozy1 »

ok guys im a nissan man, but i have a mae of mine who drives an 80 series, it is forever in the shop having continual work done to it,
recently it was in for brakes,

anyway, the front right axel seal is leaking, what i want to know is how big a job is it? is the axel seal in the at the bell end, or is it in further, as he was quoted $800 to fix it up, eventhou it was getting new rotors and they had the wheel bearings out already,

any help would be appreciated, im more than capable of doing the work,

thanks
Posts: 384
Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 8:46 pm
Location: Yeppoon Queensland

Inner axle Oil Seal

Post by stinger »

I am guessing that the oil seal you are talking about is the inner axle oil seal.

I do not believe this is a big job, but that is IMMO. You have to completely remove the CV joint and axle, you do not have to remove the steering knuckle. Once you have removed the brakes, wheel bearing, bearing hub and brake rotar, you need to undo the 8 bolts holding onto the stub axle and you will have access to the CV which you remove by turning until the flat spots are at the top and bottom then slide the axle out. Use a screw driver or what ever to remove the old inner axle oil seal replace and reassemble.

My advice though one you have all this out is to buy a complete hub wiper kit and king pin bearings (100-150 for the complete kit) and change the lot while you are in there. All up it can take anywhere from 1-3 hours a side depending on how well you work and if you have someone cleaning the parts up as you go ;)
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Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2002 2:12 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by ozy1 »

thanks for the info, just wanted to make sure it was close to the end of the axle tube and not in the centre or anything,

i will get him to order parts and knock it over asap,

thanks,
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Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 8:38 pm

Post by 4runner2.8 »

im about to do them on mine, don kayett sell the kit to do it for about $145 and i was told by a mechanic to allow about a day for the first one then the other side will be a heap quicker cos you know what you are doing.
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Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2002 2:12 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by ozy1 »

i should have it done in a day easy, as ive done quite a few on patrols so by the looks of it, crusiers are the same,

i was just looking to see if there were any hidden nasties, maybe things to do with the full time 4wd or the likes,
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Post by vSAHARAx »

How many k's has it done? check for wear on the spindles, as the mechanic did all the seals didnt change spindles 30k later it was pouring oil all over the wheels etc etc, So dad did it himself changed spindles the lot and havnt had any trouble since. we got all our stuff off Ebay, stuff is brand new cheap as and imo just as good (quality wise)
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Posts: 384
Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 8:46 pm
Location: Yeppoon Queensland

Spindles

Post by stinger »

Changing Spindles bushes are always a good idea, usually about $50 each by memory. One thing to note is that 100 series and late 80 series there was a change from the brass bushes to roller bearings which I think are much better. Any new replacement spindle and bush will be supplied with the roller bearings about $125 again from memory. Not certain if you can place the roller bearings into a spindle that was fitted with a brass bush though...

I now have one of each after distroying a spindle when a CV axle broke ....bugger
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Location: wollongong

Post by dow50r »

The seal is cheap if you get it from ses bearings as opposed to Toyota..allow a few dollars...buy a bag of rags, a tin of moly lithium grease for c/v joints, and get into it....took me all day yesterday to do thesame.
Andrew
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:01 pm

Post by muddy80s »

hi its also easier to disconnect the steering from the hub first as it makes it heaps easier to put back together without the steering pulling things around while trying to line up the bolts ect its a bit more work but worth it in the end cos its hard trying to line up everything and still keep the top/botton bearings in place.hope this helps muds
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