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Brakes Failing
Moderator: Micka
Brakes Failing
I have just bought a new booster and seal kit for my master cylinder, now the booster is fine as we checked it before replacing the seals in the master cylinder but there is a problem in the master cylinder now and the brakes dnt work, we put the new piston in replaced all the seals and everything is fine so i was wondering if anyone has any idea wtf the problem is???
1982 Range Rover
oh by the way its a 1982 range rover
It can be a tedious job bleeding the brakes on a rangie, easiest way is with a lenght of clear hose 1 meter long that fits onto the bleed nipple, other end goes into a glass jar with lid half filled with fluid, hold the bottle as high as possible, open the nipple and pump a few times. Let all the bubbles escape then close nipple and repeat on all 8 nipples f+r - this can be done solo in about 20 mins or so.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
Hi,
First up thanks Loanrangie for the info re: other post, 'Brakes won't bleed'. I suspect my problem was somewhat similar to this one. I couldn't even get the thing to look like bleeding like I'm used to.
Anyway, main reason for this post is to affirm workshop manual sequence for bleeding.
1. Start with nipple furthest away from mc (left rear). If it won't bleed normally - consult forum (that was my problem).
2. Bleed right rear if you can can get left rear to bleed.
3. You have to bleed both inboard nipples simultaneously (primary and secondary circuits) front left, followed by the secondary circuit nipple on the outside.
4. Repeat for front right.
This has always worked for me in the past (74 RR), but I'm still having hassles with new unit. Has brakes, but crap pedal. New seals and clean mc bore. Still air somewhere.
I won't be driving mine on the road till it's absolutely right, and neither should anyone else.
cheers, DL
First up thanks Loanrangie for the info re: other post, 'Brakes won't bleed'. I suspect my problem was somewhat similar to this one. I couldn't even get the thing to look like bleeding like I'm used to.
Anyway, main reason for this post is to affirm workshop manual sequence for bleeding.
1. Start with nipple furthest away from mc (left rear). If it won't bleed normally - consult forum (that was my problem).
2. Bleed right rear if you can can get left rear to bleed.
3. You have to bleed both inboard nipples simultaneously (primary and secondary circuits) front left, followed by the secondary circuit nipple on the outside.
4. Repeat for front right.
This has always worked for me in the past (74 RR), but I'm still having hassles with new unit. Has brakes, but crap pedal. New seals and clean mc bore. Still air somewhere.
I won't be driving mine on the road till it's absolutely right, and neither should anyone else.
cheers, DL
I didnt bother following the bleed order, i just started at the front doing each nipple individualy then the rears. I tried for 2 weekends on/ off trying by the manual but my clear tube method only took 20 mins or so - by myself.
Gave up getting the wife to help after being frustrated to find she was pumping the bloody accelerator pedal and not the brake pedal
Gave up getting the wife to help after being frustrated to find she was pumping the bloody accelerator pedal and not the brake pedal
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
Loanrangie wrote:I didnt bother following the bleed order, i just started at the front doing each nipple individualy then the rears. I tried for 2 weekends on/ off trying by the manual but my clear tube method only took 20 mins or so - by myself.
Gave up getting the wife to help after being frustrated to find she was pumping the bloody accelerator pedal and not the brake pedal
oopps
Andrew
'98 Disco TDi 300
'06 Rodeo 3L TDi Crewcab
"Put The Wet Stuff On The Red Stuff"
'98 Disco TDi 300
'06 Rodeo 3L TDi Crewcab
"Put The Wet Stuff On The Red Stuff"
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