Outer Limits 4x4 Board

How good are nissan gq auto boxs
Good for a real thrashing or will they break
Thinking about buying a shorty gq with 200,000 kays
cost to rebuild auto

the autos are pretty tough just lazy on gear changes . they can cost up to 3500 to rebuild but if you get yours pulled apart and it doesnt have any damaged hard parts it should definatly be cheaper. they could do with a shift kit . we have one with a shift kit and 160rwkw no dramas

the best way to make them shift a bit better is to adjust your TPS around a bit more...... i nearly fried my trans after i put the V8 in.... it's set up properly now, and works great!! handles the V8 well... only thing is i have damaged it when i had the TPS set up wrong..... so it's life span is reduced, so the mechanic tells me anyhow.

Mine's auto and it has done quite few comps with no drama's. They do have a life span so and 200k is about when work needs to be done. If you do it before it melts then you'll save yourself a lot of money. I'm running 20psi, intercooled etc and apart from a shift kit, increasing the clutches, strengthening the torque convertor and using synthetic oil it is standard. They are strong but don't like heat. Keep them cool and you'll be fine. To give you an idea of how I treat mine. From a standing start during a comp, I'll stand on the brake and the trottle. It will get to 14psi before I take my foot of the brake ie no wheel movement, and as you can imagine it then launches fairly well.

liam hall wrote:How good are nissan gq auto boxs

awesome.. Putting one in my TD6 soon

Thinking about buying a shorty gq with 200,000 kays
cost to rebuild auto

$3000-4000 complete rebuild.

What about engine braking on a petrol is it crap. Do you need low range reduction gears with 35 inch tyres

with mine and 35" tyres in low 1st there is a small degree of engine braking, but you need to be doing between 5 and 10kph before it happens. Which means you will still be riding the brakes down steep hills. As for reduction gears with an auto, i have standard gearing, and it's no dramas at all with 3.9 diffs. A bit of a pain on really steep hills where it gets the wheels spinning where you don't want them to..... Re-gearing to 4.65 will be more than sufficient i think.

I'll put on flame proof suit before I say this. Engine braking is a load of crap. With an auto you have two pedal and obviously two feet. So you drive with a foot on each pedal and adjust the pressure according to what you are doing. It takes some praxtice as the left foot is trained to only press a pedal to the floor (ie clutch) so you need to teach it to feather the pedal. Once you have learned this then the only time you'll use engine braking is on road. I do almost all of my off road driving in high range particulary if it is wet. If it is dry then low range is useful but with the auto you get so much slip that you can use the slip as a form of traction control.

liam hall wrote:What about engine braking on a petrol is it crap. Do you need low range reduction gears with 35 inch tyres

although mine is a gu petrol auto , to answer your question yes the engine braking would be CRAP with 35's running 3.9's and low first down a half decent hill and would struggle up steep long inclines ,

i have the above but with reduction gears and it makes everthing so much easier , ive gone up hills on 33"s before the reduction gears and watched as the temp started to rise quite quickly ( given it was a long steep hill ) but with the gears the auto is magic running 35's up or down hills , and stops you from cooking your brakes on the down hills , i would much prefer to use the engine braking with reduction gears than to cook the brakes and warp my rotors , but than again it depends on how big hills are around you and how often youd drive em

cheesr Jai

Brake pads are cheap. Brake discs are cheap. Shagging the auto aint cheap.
Also brake pads are easy to change.
Oh and I have had warped discs over the years (that was a manul TD42) but aint they floating calipers. So they still move with the disc.

If you have reduction gears, nothing gets shagged. Engine purrs up hills, with very little converter slippage. And brake free descents down very steep hills.

I've said it before and i'll say it again. Reduction gears are awesome for auto patrols.

Just my opinion, not knocking anyone.


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nzdarin wrote:I'll put on flame proof suit before I say this. Engine braking is a load of crap. With an auto you have two pedal and obviously two feet. So you drive with a foot on each pedal and adjust the pressure according to what you are doing. It takes some praxtice as the left foot is trained to only press a pedal to the floor (ie clutch) so you need to teach it to feather the pedal. Once you have learned this then the only time you'll use engine braking is on road. I do almost all of my off road driving in high range particulary if it is wet. If it is dry then low range is useful but with the auto you get so much slip that you can use the slip as a form of traction control.

Very well put!!!!!

yeh heard the autos are top shit

Do the comp gq's run auto or still manuals and do they run reduction gears

liam hall wrote:Do the comp gq's run auto or still manuals and do they run reduction gears

we run one of our cars as an auto with standard t-fer gears

liam hall wrote:Do the comp gq's run auto or still manuals and do they run reduction gears

Theres starting to be a number of people who are going to autos. One I heard of was cos with the turbo petrol, they couldnt keep clutches up to it. But at last years Ateco I was surprised with the number of autos. Atleast a third of the field maybe more.

I have competed in the last 5 winch comps in NZ and there's quite a lot of auot's running over here. An auto is by far the best option when winching as you can match the tyre speed to ground speed without having to ride the clutch. Idealy what you want is a clutchless manual as the weak point is not the gearbox but the clutch. There would be more GQ auto's running here except that the PTO is on the gearbox so with an auto you must run either electric or hydrualic winch. Reduction gears aren't really that useful for winch comps as normally you are going fast anyway. I hardly use low range at all!