6.2 V8 rear main leak

[brighty]

I got a leaky rear main oil seal on my 6.2 chev V8. I have only just replaced it about 2mths ago and has constantly leaked ever since I put it in. The old one leaked too, thats why I replaced it.

I read up a manual on these engines and how to replace the seal, done everything by the book... And I made sure there were no marks or grooves in the crank either. Why would this still be leaking???

I had the same prob on my 60 series when we rebuilt the engine, the rear main leaked (minimally)for about 3mths then finally fixed itself... or bedded itself in.

What do I do????


Ohhh and it is a 2 part seal, just incase that helps!!!

[plowy]

a 2 part seal the type that spin inside each other ?

if it is,the alignment of the seal is critical there may be a special tool to knock the seal in with
to keep the seal itself spaced evenly

[brighty]

a 2 part seal the type that spin inside each other ?

if it is,the alignment of the seal is critical there may be a special tool to knock the seal in with
to keep the seal itself spaced evenly

Nope, not this type.

The same as a normal ring seal but cut in half across the diameter of the seal to give two halves.

[6.5 rangie]

Rope seal?

[beatle_bayly]

Everything needs to be spotlessly clean and smooth. Did you use a good silicone sealant on the outside of the seal where it mates the block and the sump ?

It should only leak statically as the CDR should provide suck, not blow, with the engine running.

Not telling you how to suck eggs, but is it possible to fit the seal the wrong way 'round (I'm sure it's not, but years since I did mine).

[Modified Toy]

can you buy a two piece rubber seal for it instead of a rope seal fitted lots of these to early commodore v6's with lots of luck only been able to get them from engine reco shops though

[brighty]

Everything needs to be spotlessly clean and smooth. Did you use a good silicone sealant on the outside of the seal where it mates the block and the sump ?

It should only leak statically as the CDR should provide suck, not blow, with the engine running.

Not telling you how to suck eggs, but is it possible to fit the seal the wrong way 'round (I'm sure it's not, but years since I did mine).

not a rope seal either.

I did put the seal in the way the manual told me to, so I pressume it should be correct. I don't think I used and silicone sealant arount the outside of the seal where it fits to the block and mating plate. The reason for this, I was told after I done my 2H rear main a few times not to use it as it can cause the crank to spin the seal. I never actually done that when putting the seal in in the 2H, but a workshop in QLD did when I was on roadtrip... only got about 500kms out of that seal before it spun off the crank and the workshop didn't want to know about it So I got it home and done it yet again myself. All good now though!!!