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lil rock buggy class specs on page 6
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lil rock buggy class specs on page 6
had a late night brainstorming session last night (thanks MADZUKI) and came up with a lightweight rock buggy. Should be cheap to build and run.
Use a motorcycle engine like an XR650
All chain driven (make it real easy for gearing)
Independent suspension (make this a class rule )
Use motorcycle rims with trials bike tires
You could use heaps smaller tube for the frame
Have a maximum length and width to keep things more even
Be heaps of fun and make things really interesting and cheap
Use a motorcycle engine like an XR650
All chain driven (make it real easy for gearing)
Independent suspension (make this a class rule )
Use motorcycle rims with trials bike tires
You could use heaps smaller tube for the frame
Have a maximum length and width to keep things more even
Be heaps of fun and make things really interesting and cheap
Last edited by toughnut on Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:03 am, edited 2 times in total.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
just put in big ass 20 cogs
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
That's exactly what I was thinking. you could easily use motor cross shocks for this as well. I might build one just for the fun factor.Ingenious-Eng wrote:Why does it need to have weight restrictions if we start a new comp class all together?TEAM OPW wrote:Only problem being, it must weigh a minimum on 1000Kg's.
Therefore power will be an issue.
Pete
Cheers
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
or just get a trials bike
there are already comps at club, state, national, and international levels. you'll be able to get over some pretty amazing rocks, its cheaper, and you'll also get all the lightweight, easy tow and storage, etc... advantages you mentioned.
if you want to build something different go for it. but if you expect a class to be formed, that'll take some convincing.
there are already comps at club, state, national, and international levels. you'll be able to get over some pretty amazing rocks, its cheaper, and you'll also get all the lightweight, easy tow and storage, etc... advantages you mentioned.
if you want to build something different go for it. but if you expect a class to be formed, that'll take some convincing.
I don't have the balance to do trials. Besides, how does any class of motorsport start????N*A*M wrote:or just get a trials bike
there are already comps at club, state, national, and international levels. you'll be able to get over some pretty amazing rocks, its cheaper, and you'll also get all the lightweight, easy tow and storage, etc... advantages you mentioned.
if you want to build something different go for it. but if you expect a class to be formed, that'll take some convincing.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
I agree... it would be quite impressive what you could achieve.
Designing the class would be half the fun.
You could potentially even run a 4wd system with chains (there's been 2wd bikes after all).
Certainly bigger shaft drive motorbike motors could easily turn a suzuki tcase. Kinda removing the fun factor though, and getting too much like a quad bike anyway.
Your limitations that I can see.
How do you actually intend to set up reverse gears? I'm guessing a reverse down, forward up arrangement would be easiest, although it could be possible to have some kind of forward/reverse transfer box.
Driver safety. How do you prevent parts being poked outside of the cage in the event of an accident? I guess making the cage a little bigger and having netting alround would be possible. In the event of a big rock poking through the cage though you're kinda screwed.....
Tyres? Would you want to use trail bike type rims and tyres? To be honest they're very skinny and not gonna be much good for rocks.
Trials tyres maybe.
Perhaps ATV wheels and tyres, but much more expensive to get big ATV rubber.
Overall I see the concept kind of like the old Honda oddysey buggies, but designed for 2wd rockcrawling. It's something I've thought about myself.
With less and less places available, and less and less space, and more traffic damage on the remaining places, doing something like this does have some merits.
Designing the class would be half the fun.
You could potentially even run a 4wd system with chains (there's been 2wd bikes after all).
Certainly bigger shaft drive motorbike motors could easily turn a suzuki tcase. Kinda removing the fun factor though, and getting too much like a quad bike anyway.
Your limitations that I can see.
How do you actually intend to set up reverse gears? I'm guessing a reverse down, forward up arrangement would be easiest, although it could be possible to have some kind of forward/reverse transfer box.
Driver safety. How do you prevent parts being poked outside of the cage in the event of an accident? I guess making the cage a little bigger and having netting alround would be possible. In the event of a big rock poking through the cage though you're kinda screwed.....
Tyres? Would you want to use trail bike type rims and tyres? To be honest they're very skinny and not gonna be much good for rocks.
Trials tyres maybe.
Perhaps ATV wheels and tyres, but much more expensive to get big ATV rubber.
Overall I see the concept kind of like the old Honda oddysey buggies, but designed for 2wd rockcrawling. It's something I've thought about myself.
With less and less places available, and less and less space, and more traffic damage on the remaining places, doing something like this does have some merits.
I'd love to do trials, but due to the ageing process I don't heal so well any more, so time I build a full exo cage around the bike to protect me (being a complete newbie at the sport) it aint going to get very far up any rock! & don't tell me they don't get hurt as I was at the the top comp just recently & one of the top A class english riders took a fall that would have put me in a wheel chair for lifeN*A*M wrote:or just get a trials bike
there are already comps at club, state, national, and international levels. you'll be able to get over some pretty amazing rocks, its cheaper, and you'll also get all the lightweight, easy tow and storage, etc... advantages you mentioned.
if you want to build something different go for it. but if you expect a class to be formed, that'll take some convincing.
Bring on the micro buggy class
I want to make alloy twin steer mini portal axles with micro air lockers & alloy tube frame, around 350 total kg's would be good.
these things would be as much fun as the pit bikes are at the moment.
C'mon toughnut pull your finger out & make it happen
im thinking something akin to sandrails interms of weight, engine go the old Vdub's, not as long but single seater useing that size of tyre.
in my mind this both works cheaply and sounds awsome.
I know there must be some CAD guru's hideing here im sure someone can knock up an idea of what it would look like
in my mind this both works cheaply and sounds awsome.
I know there must be some CAD guru's hideing here im sure someone can knock up an idea of what it would look like
That's what I meant by chain driven. Probably run a central shaft and then a chain to the front and rear axelsBeastmavster wrote: You could potentially even run a 4wd system with chains (there's been 2wd bikes after all).
Though of this but then things would be become heavy and up the costsBeastmavster wrote:Certainly bigger shaft drive motorbike motors could easily turn a suzuki tcase. Kinda removing the fun factor though, and getting too much like a quad bike anyway.
You could set an engine capacity and maybe use quad bike motors that have reverse in the gearbox. You don't need to go fast so you could get away with slightly less power and just gear it right down with the cogs.Beastmavster wrote:Your limitations that I can see.
How do you actually intend to set up reverse gears? I'm guessing a reverse down, forward up arrangement would be easiest, although it could be possible to have some kind of forward/reverse transfer box.
It'd be easy to have the same setup as the buggies do now. You could just run mesh with some of the panels removable to get in and out.Beastmavster wrote:Driver safety. How do you prevent parts being poked outside of the cage in the event of an accident? I guess making the cage a little bigger and having netting alround would be possible. In the event of a big rock poking through the cage though you're kinda screwed......
The idea is to use the trials type tyres and bike wheels to keep the tracks a bit more user friendly. You wouldn't have to make the tracks as extreme then because the buggies simply wouldn't be as capable.Beastmavster wrote:Tyres? Would you want to use trail bike type rims and tyres? To be honest they're very skinny and not gonna be much good for rocks.
Trials tyres maybe.
Perhaps ATV wheels and tyres, but much more expensive to get big ATV rubber.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Yamaha do. Some concept bikes used a realy strange chain and shaft driveShadow wrote:most(all?) 2wd bikes use a hydraulic from wheel drive system dont they?
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
I dunno how capable the buggies would be. Obviously without the years of development it would be well behind the car 4wd scene.
But using the example of a standard trailbike wheel, you're probably looking at about these sorts of figures:
Suspension: IFS/IRS. Solid axles would be possible, even with chain drive, but weight is a key factor.
50 Hp (650cc trailbike engine - or more with other engines)
Dry weight - approx 250-300kg
(2 and a half times what a trailbike weighs)
27" tyres
Ground clearance: With IFS + IRS you're probably looking at the driveshafts on about an downward angle of about 30 degrees. So if the vehicle was say 3 feet wide (bloody narrow even for single seater).
Since the most sensible spot for engine mounting is either front or middle, and chain is to the left of the engine I'm guessing you might stretch it to 3 1/2 - 4 feet
Rough off the top of my head guess says you'd be looking at least 6" higher in the centre than the middle of the tyres, so about 20" ground clearance front and rear, and more in the middle (maybe 30").
Gearing.... Obviously as short as you want it to be, but dependant on available sprocket sizes. Guessing the shortest you'll easily source will be something like 17/31 for final drive.
If you had a seperate reverse/reduction box you can go way lower.
Effective power to weight - ample considering light weight and gearing combos.
Diffs locked by default (chain drive)
Left hand drive (chain output on left of most bike engines, meaning a middle chain needs rightmounted engine).
But using the example of a standard trailbike wheel, you're probably looking at about these sorts of figures:
Suspension: IFS/IRS. Solid axles would be possible, even with chain drive, but weight is a key factor.
50 Hp (650cc trailbike engine - or more with other engines)
Dry weight - approx 250-300kg
(2 and a half times what a trailbike weighs)
27" tyres
Ground clearance: With IFS + IRS you're probably looking at the driveshafts on about an downward angle of about 30 degrees. So if the vehicle was say 3 feet wide (bloody narrow even for single seater).
Since the most sensible spot for engine mounting is either front or middle, and chain is to the left of the engine I'm guessing you might stretch it to 3 1/2 - 4 feet
Rough off the top of my head guess says you'd be looking at least 6" higher in the centre than the middle of the tyres, so about 20" ground clearance front and rear, and more in the middle (maybe 30").
Gearing.... Obviously as short as you want it to be, but dependant on available sprocket sizes. Guessing the shortest you'll easily source will be something like 17/31 for final drive.
If you had a seperate reverse/reduction box you can go way lower.
Effective power to weight - ample considering light weight and gearing combos.
Diffs locked by default (chain drive)
Left hand drive (chain output on left of most bike engines, meaning a middle chain needs rightmounted engine).
HHMMM thinking single sided swing arms for portal hubs facing slightly rearward at the rear and vise versa for the front. This would keep the steering and axels all nicely tucked up out of the way
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
make our own portal/swing arms
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Due to the high cost of motor cycle tyres I'm thinking it would be cheaper to run 235/75/15 on 15x7 steel rims, as this tyre wheel combo can be bought for less than $150.00 brand new, thats how much just one cheap trials tyre cost. Tyres are the part thats cops the biggest hiding on a buggy as a consumable item so they need to be cheap & second hand tyres are usually free/or cheap in this size. (It's the size tyre we use on most 4x4 camper trailers)
For the outlaw mini buggy class they could be allowed to run up to 31/10.5/15
We gotta keep it cheap then it will be the biggest class of all as everyone can afford to do it!
Like others have said it is just as much fun making up the rules as it will be to build & compete
For the outlaw mini buggy class they could be allowed to run up to 31/10.5/15
We gotta keep it cheap then it will be the biggest class of all as everyone can afford to do it!
Like others have said it is just as much fun making up the rules as it will be to build & compete
sierrajim wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com.au/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0009455201
You couldnt help yourself, could you
Mock
My photographic Art http://www.redbubble.com/people/ljxtreem
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
We should cap the engine size as that could get out of hand pretty quickly, but i think it would be cool to leave the tranmission of power from the engine to the wheels as anything goes, as it would allow some awesome new ideas to be born. One idea I've got is to run 4 x cheap belt driven car power steering pumps of a honda or briggs & stratton engine with each wheel having a modified power steer pump in it through a reduction unit of your choice, this could do away with brakes as the hydraulics could power & brake the wheel at the same time, also gives the ability to skid steer on its own axis if required, also frees up clearance issues for suspension/articulation, weight distribution as you dont have to worry about chains or drive shafts passing through or around the cab area.
Cheap way to try out new ideas to see how wheel they work before fitting them to the bigger comp trucks
Cheap way to try out new ideas to see how wheel they work before fitting them to the bigger comp trucks
They are usually just a cheap vane type pump, which in theory can be turned into a vane type motor similer to those used in air tools, pump operating pressure is only around 1500 psi which is half of what normal hydraulic systems run at. it would be costly to try & do this setup on a full size comp truck but for the elcheapo light weight micro toughnut class it should work a treat.Shadow wrote:would a power steering pump even work as a hydaulic motor? Dont think it would.
interesting idea with the power steer pumnp. Only problem i can see is that the low pressure side of the pump may not be able to handle the full pressure as in the high pressure side? i guess experimentation is in order >_<
If you got 4 4wd pumps for the wheels, and a big ass truck power steer pump attached to the motor, you could then also run all your steering etc from hydro aswell.
I wonder how much torque a power steer pump would have before you blow seals in the pump.
If you got 4 4wd pumps for the wheels, and a big ass truck power steer pump attached to the motor, you could then also run all your steering etc from hydro aswell.
I wonder how much torque a power steer pump would have before you blow seals in the pump.
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