welded diffs

Post by **bill** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:01 pm

Thinking of welding my 1.3 litre rear diff,how hard is this on axles and unis,i have had welded diffs befor in other 4x4s ,will the zook drivetrain handle hyway use thanks Bill

Post by **Guy** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 12:12 am

How long is a piece of string ?? How big are your tires, what kinda tread are they how much power you pushing through em ..

They should be OK .. I have not run my welded rear diff long enuff to comment conclusively (about 5000kms at a guess) but I have not noticed any more issues than usual with 1.6 and 35's ..

Post by **camskizook** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 11:21 am

Ive had a rear weld up for close to 12 months and have only had to replace a uni in the jackshaft last week

Post by **bill** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 8:50 pm

love mud...my zook runs a 4AGE 100kw and 3 speed auto 32'' 10.5 mongrels ,i live near the otways so mainly wheeling in the mud,got 2 spare diffs,so not that worried if it shiats the centre,main concern is the axles (no spares) . Cam is your zook still running the 1.3 ?and what size are your tires thanks Bill

Post by **camskizook** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:19 pm

Im running the big block 1 litre engine so it doesnt put too much (if any) stress on the drivetrain...ive got wide track axles under there now and i dont expect to have any dramas...yeh and 31" MTRs. If its a good weld, and not dodgey (ie just a heap of slag mixed in between the planetry gears) then it should be ok......

cheers

Post by **christover1** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 11:56 pm

I ve run welded rear for 18months, its my daily driver too. hasnt broke anything that it didnt break before.. ..but be ready fer the handling change, its great when ya get used to it, but can be a trap at first..mines a LWB 1.3 into a 1.0 litre drive line..christover

Post by **bill** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 12:18 am

thanks cam and christover,just finished pulling the centre out ,will weld it up monday ,can anybody tell me how much oil to put in thr rear of a wide track 1.3 ?.....Bill

Post by **camskizook** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 5:10 pm

THink its about 1.2 litres or thereabouts

Post by **christover1** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 9:12 pm

post welded front diff, was worth it, got up ok.

Post by **bill** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 9:36 pm

wheres that at christover,looks like a fun place

Post by **camskizook** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 9:40 pm

wow! thats uncommon for a zook to have a wheel in the air

Post by **christover1** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 10:48 pm

bill wrote:wheres that at christover,looks like a fun place

Gembrook/Bunyip State Park, Victoria, Power Lines area, Nick named The Boulders

Post by **christover1** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 10:50 pm

camskizook wrote:wow! thats uncommon for a zook to have a wheel in the air

I usually got two in the air, and lying on its side :oops:

Post by **greg** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:11 am

bill wrote:thanks cam and christover,just finished pulling the centre out ,will weld it up monday ,can anybody tell me how much oil to put in thr rear of a wide track 1.3 ?.....Bill

take out the top plug and fill it til it starts to overflow...

isn't that the normal way to fill a diff with oil

Post by **stockman** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 11:45 am

greg wrote:
bill wrote:thanks cam and christover,just finished pulling the centre out ,will weld it up monday ,can anybody tell me how much oil to put in thr rear of a wide track 1.3 ?.....Bill

take out the top plug and fill it til it starts to overflow...

isn't that the normal way to fill a diff with oil

can any one show a diagram of how it is to be welded and where, cheers

Post by ***BESTY*** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 12:05 pm

stockman wrote:
greg wrote:
bill wrote:thanks cam and christover,just finished pulling the centre out ,will weld it up monday ,can anybody tell me how much oil to put in thr rear of a wide track 1.3 ?.....Bill

take out the top plug and fill it til it starts to overflow...

isn't that the normal way to fill a diff with oil

can any one show a diagram of how it is to be welded and where, cheers

Taken from a Daihatsu Thread

Don't go to a 4wd place to get it done ( unless it as a more mechanical based place ) - just get your local Diff Specialist to do it. Also make sure they do it the proper way - take the side gears out, grind them down & weld a large section of steel plate in there to really lock them solid
Just splattering a bit of weld in between the teeth is NOT good enough & the weld chunks will break of & usually take out other bits of gear etc.
I have attached a pic of how the Diff Specialist I use does it - no way you are breaking that sucker
( BTW I use Diff Trans Spares in Casula Sydney if anyone is after a reputable Diff Specialist - done plenty of work for me in the past & always been good )

Cheers

Post by **mud4b** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:06 pm

i have seen a place pour molten metal into one to lock it.

Post by **SAWZALL** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 8:50 pm

Anymore input on this? I'm only running 31's ATM but I need to daily drive it....

Post by **greg** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 11:25 am

uphiir wrote:Anymore input on this? I'm only running 31's ATM but I need to daily drive it....

Sadly i don't know the specific names of all the inner pieces of a diff, but i've seen one welded up and it certainly didn't appear to be as much work as the way it was described above. It was just a matter of good preparation and taking your time to let it all cool before doing more welds etc...

If you question is about reliability, all of the welded rear diffs running around the vic suzuki club are holding up a treat. There was one that crumbled inside but we are certain that was due to poor preparation.

On the other hand, if you are worried about strength, Check out LJ Extreem's LJ on 36" swampers - that's running a welded rear without any problems... i.e. a think that some 31's would be no problem. :cool:

Post by **moose** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 11:39 am

did mine saturday !!!

1.. pull diff centre out
2.. take ring gear off centre
3.. take top cover off centre , top gear can come off as well
4.. pull out cross pins & side gears , dont loose washers (behind side gears !!)
5.. clean everything !!
6.. put side gears , washers & x-pins back in centre
7.. place 4 Hi-tensile bolts/pieces of flat steel , (wat ever you have available) into the gaps between the side gears
8.. weld material to gears , check after each weld , that the top gear & cover still go on !!
9.. refit top cover , while still hot
10.. let it cool down , go have a couple of cans !!
11.. refit ring gear
12.. refit centre in diff
13.. reassemble axles & everything
14.. fill diff with oil & bleed rear brakes
15.. go learn to drive again !!!! :rofl:

have fun !!!

Post by **grimbo** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 12:55 pm

moose, are you going to put the air locker into the front?

Post by **moose** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 1:06 pm

seriously thinking about it !!!!
need to get side gears for locker , so might as well get front !!!!!

Post by **qten** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 9:44 pm

Hey Moose,

what did you mean when you said go to learn to drive again?

I would imagen the rear end would be a bit more well "Screetchie" but thats it isnt it?

Post by **OVERKILL ENG** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 10:01 pm

one thing to remember when doing it try not to get to much heat into it as you can destroy the bearings. I run welded front and rear and love it HYDRO steer helps alot though

Post by **mud4b** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 10:29 pm

sam what components are you using for your hydro steer.

Post by **bigsteve** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 5:28 am

qten wrote:I would imagen the rear end would be a bit more well "Screetchie"

I actually found there was not much noise when I used Gregs swampers in comparison to my MTR's.

The more flex the tyre has the more it will be able to move rather than skip to catch up to the other side.

Post by **redzook** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 5:40 am

mine has been welded a little while now so far no probs

it has seen some very gripy rock to. makes a hell of
a difference

Post by **bigsteve** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 6:43 am

redzook wrote:makes a hell of
a difference

I agree, best (And cheapest) mod I have done thus far.

Post by **moose** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 10:01 am

qten wrote:Hey Moose,

what did you mean when you said go to learn to drive again?

I would imagen the rear end would be a bit more well "Screetchie" but thats it isnt it?

Mainly on-road !!!
the handling characteristics will change !!
heavier steering , larger turning circle , different high speed cornering !!!

cause the rear will be solid , it will try to push the front , & as you corner , 1 tyre is already slipping , so it dont take much for the other 1 to go !!!!

Post by **redzook** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 1:46 pm

moose wrote:cause the rear will be solid , it will try to push the front , & as you corner , 1 tyre is already slipping , so it dont take much for the other 1 to go !!!!

ive found it has done the opposite for me i cant get it to spin around corners any more

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