hey everybody
At the moment I am lining up a injected 250 crossflow motor to go into my 40. I would like to put the auto box in it but would have to buy a transfer case and adaptor plate, would it be better to keep the strandard 4 speed and just get a bellhousing etc ????
Any thoughts would be very nice
Cheers Harry
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40 series engine- gearbox questions
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
ive got a 250xflow and a castlemain rodshop adapterkit to bolt the engine up to the standard cruiser 4 speed
good setup im VERY happy with it from the few times ive driven it
a auto you can go a c4 auto but the adapter kit to cruiser tcase is $940 from marks plus you have to have the auto torn apart and rebuilt using a new rear shaft or somethin like that
few things ill add
radiator 2f is wrong water inlet/outlet i used a 4 core bj40 rad cooled it heaps
my kit uses a diesel bellhousing and that makes the front shaft shorter and rear shaft longer (tho ive looked and a 2f bellhousing would work and leave everything the same length)
wiring - easy 2 wires for thje electronic ignition
mine is straight lpg gra so no efi so cant help ya with that but imo the 250 efi setup is prety crappy with stock ecu
the efi intake is a very very tight fit between the firewall mines got a 2" bodylift and i had to sluightly indent the firewall to clear cyl 6 intake runner
i had all aftermarket gauges for water temp oil pressure so ya on ya own with them but im sure a good parts store could get adapters to suit in
if you where in melbourne id say drop past take a looksee if you went auto theres no point in buying the crs kit unless they will just sell the engine mounts but id make up a set of custom mounts not a hard job
ALSO the efi intake
good setup im VERY happy with it from the few times ive driven it
a auto you can go a c4 auto but the adapter kit to cruiser tcase is $940 from marks plus you have to have the auto torn apart and rebuilt using a new rear shaft or somethin like that
few things ill add
radiator 2f is wrong water inlet/outlet i used a 4 core bj40 rad cooled it heaps
my kit uses a diesel bellhousing and that makes the front shaft shorter and rear shaft longer (tho ive looked and a 2f bellhousing would work and leave everything the same length)
wiring - easy 2 wires for thje electronic ignition
mine is straight lpg gra so no efi so cant help ya with that but imo the 250 efi setup is prety crappy with stock ecu
the efi intake is a very very tight fit between the firewall mines got a 2" bodylift and i had to sluightly indent the firewall to clear cyl 6 intake runner
i had all aftermarket gauges for water temp oil pressure so ya on ya own with them but im sure a good parts store could get adapters to suit in
if you where in melbourne id say drop past take a looksee if you went auto theres no point in buying the crs kit unless they will just sell the engine mounts but id make up a set of custom mounts not a hard job
ALSO the efi intake
i have drivin a 250xflow c4 auto and 60's tcase MQ, AWESOME! Loosk like straight forward conversion. and with the auto to t case yes it does need a new input sharft put in it, but is well worth it, imho
i have driven a 250xflow 4spd 40 box 60 tcase 40, better than mine but the MQ is 100000000000x's better
i have driven a 250xflow 4spd 40 box 60 tcase 40, better than mine but the MQ is 100000000000x's better
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