Crown wheel

[mudmacaca]

Whats involved in changing your crown wheel and where would you get one from?
Its an ifs front diff and to me it does'nt look to hard once it is out and the back is open it looks like I remove 4 bolts and the centre should come out and then there is about 10 bolts holding the crown wheel on.The only problem I can see is pressing the bearing off but I dont want to do this I just want to change the crown wheel and put it all back in.
Any help would be good

[simkell]

you should change the pinion with the crown wheel as they are matched sets. i would highly recommend taking the centre out and taking it to a diff joint to get what ever work done that is required.

[mudmacaca]

I was told the pinion all had 9 teeth its only the number of teeth on the crown wheel is different. Being an ifs diff it does'nt have a centre like a solid axle diff. I think a solid axle diff is called a third member.
Do you know if the 4 bolts are holding on/in the bearing race or if they are part of the bearing race ie. its not a pressed on bearing

[Madmac]

crown wheels are normally supplied new with a pinion as a set, expect to pay about $650 from toyota, in an ideal world the pinion should be changed too, but you can get away without changing it. the only bearings that need pressing are the ones on the pinion shaft if you change that too.
the critical things are pinion pre tension and crown wheel backlash, if you get these wrong the diff will whine and wont last long. if your spending $650 for a crown and pinion id advise yopu to pull the diff out of the car and take it to a diff specialist and have it set up right. should only cost aboput $100-$150 in labour. and expect to brake more in the future, the IFS hilux front diffs are weak as piss. i replaced 5 crown and pinions in mine before i got the shits and bought a GQ patrol, havent had to fix a diff since , refer to a service manual for the correct backlash and pinion settings if doing it yourself

[mudmacaca]

Thanks hi-luxmadness
got quoted 550 for the crown wheel from repco and thought that was a bit steep as a diff shop told me it would cost about 400-450 for a reconditioned one and you can get a wrecked one for about the same. So I came to the conclusion that the crown wheel must be cheaper. Do you know if any one does a non genuine part like china for a more wallet freindly price?
I have read that locking the diff makes it stronger but I cant see how as the force from the pinion to the crown wheel is the simlar the only difference is that it is constant when locked
I did this one in about six outings if the next one only lasts this long I may as well save the dollars to sas the rig

[Madmac]

my advice is save up and go the SAS, or trade it in for an earlier model. i wish i had. after id replaced the first 3 id spent nearly what it would of cost for the conversion. when i had mine about 3 years ago there was no non genuine alternative for the IFS front diff. they may be available now. as for locking the diff giving more strength. id say maybe. i broke 2 unlocked, and 3 with an airlocker fitted. however i drove it up considerably harder tracks once it had lockers. the main thing is nowing when to back off. if the front bounces you need to back off immediately. nearly all of mine broke when the front bounces and it spins wheels and lands hard.
this might be of some help to you
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/inde ... eadid=4581

[mudmacaca]

Cheers thats the exact way I did it I now have a second hand spare diff to put in same as the one in the link 4.55 ratios I can tell by the thickness of the crown wheel. The only question I have is what tourqe did you set the bolts that hold the crown wheel on?
And how do you set the backlash and pinion? I would like to know as I would like to fix the broken one my self and know that I can do it and thus having a spare.
I ask these questions because the manual I have does'nt have these answers in it.
the sas will be being done in about 6 weeks slowly sourcing parts but dont want to stop wheeling on the week ends