Anyone have any thoughts as to what is the best way to rust proof a chassis before a big summer of beach work?
Some say go with one that doesn't dry completely and stays tarry (if that's a word). Other say these allow the moisture to penetrate and go with something that dry hard.
Thoughts/prior experience?
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Rust proofing
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Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
You can buy a product called cavity wax - K & H ARP (anti rust preventative) this stuff is mildly solvent based, sets firm like a wax coating, but can be dislodged if scraped. perfect for coating large flat surfaces, needs very little prep. Excellent for coating the inside of doors, chassis rails etc. Will not bleed into cracks as well as fish oil, I usually treat with the cavity wax first, wait a week or so to cure, then treat with fish oil - the oil will seep into the cracks for total sealing. You can apply the wax with a regular garden spray pack, or for accurate applications use a large syringe with a ground down needle fitted. You can shoot the fluid quite a way into blind panels this way, via small holes. You get used to the smell...
Built, not bought.
Fisholine and Tectol!!!!!
The Fisholine is the preventive and the tectol makes it set (it is also a Preventive). This works really well but it does remain sticky and doesn't look real flash after a while (dirt and shiat sticks to it) BUT it WORKS!!!
Make sure you by GOOD deoderised Fisholine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The Fisholine is the preventive and the tectol makes it set (it is also a Preventive). This works really well but it does remain sticky and doesn't look real flash after a while (dirt and shiat sticks to it) BUT it WORKS!!!
Make sure you by GOOD deoderised Fisholine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Area54 wrote:You can buy a product called cavity wax - K & H ARP (anti rust preventative) this stuff is mildly solvent based, sets firm like a wax coating, but can be dislodged if scraped. perfect for coating large flat surfaces, needs very little prep. Excellent for coating the inside of doors, chassis rails etc. Will not bleed into cracks as well as fish oil, I usually treat with the cavity wax first, wait a week or so to cure, then treat with fish oil - the oil will seep into the cracks for total sealing. You can apply the wax with a regular garden spray pack, or for accurate applications use a large syringe with a ground down needle fitted. You can shoot the fluid quite a way into blind panels this way, via small holes. You get used to the smell...
THE ONLY WAY TO GO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....and as
POS
Rock God
said.......
Joined: 22 Oct 2002
Posts: 2378
Location: springfield brisbane
Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2003 9:38 pm
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Oh, to apply it use a Compressor and buy one of those long pointy flexy nozzle's. If you don't have a compressor hire one for a day, about $40.00 and it will do a awesome job!
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