I'm leaking coolant from my 89 sierra (stock). It's coming from the top hose straight out of the radiator, and I tried tightening it (yesterday), but i didn't want to snap the clamp.
I wasn't sure if I should just tighten it right up and hope that it's cured or if this is probably a sign that I need to seriously look at the cooling system... could it be an indication that the thermostat is not opening properly or that there is a blockage somewhere down the line?
Thanks for any replies
Nick.
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Leaking coolant
Be sure to check the state of your radiator outlet pipe. If it's metal it could be corroded or if it's plastic it may be cracked. You could sleeve it with an off cut of metal or old rad hose and join your new hose over the top of that if you need to. New Radiators for Zuks start at $320.
Also if you have to take the Radiator out for any reason replace your bottom hoses too as there a pain in the arse to get to if they split in the bush. Go to Burson's for replacement hoses if there is one in your area.
Also if you have to take the Radiator out for any reason replace your bottom hoses too as there a pain in the arse to get to if they split in the bush. Go to Burson's for replacement hoses if there is one in your area.
Cheers for that. It may be worth getting a new radiator anyway, as the outside 'wafered' bit (on the engine side) is pretty damaged - it looks as though the fan has flicked stuff into it. I remember an article in 4wd monthly about roothy replacing the entire cooling system of an 80 series with one from repco for around a grand - included the water pump and everything. maybe worth considering.=SKB= wrote:Be sure to check the state of your radiator outlet pipe. If it's metal it could be corroded or if it's plastic it may be cracked. You could sleeve it with an off cut of metal or old rad hose and join your new hose over the top of that if you need to. New Radiators for Zuks start at $320.
The worst thing about buying a cheaper car second hnd is that people don't seem too fussed about maintenance. they seem to have the 'fix it when it breaks' mentality, which means that when something goes wrong, it seems to start off a chain reaction.
Whilst that might be ok for a road car, it can be a pita when something goes wrong off road, especially when it could have been prevented with maintenance.
Anyway, the point is that I don't mind spending a bit of money if it means that I'm not going to be breaking down all the time
Nick
That's a good way to be too.
The Zuk I bought second hand had been treated like shit and as you say once I started fixing one thing I had to fix everything around it. Everything on my Zuk is brand new at the moment except for the suspension which is next. If I was you I would replace everything as you plan on doing including the water inlet pipe on the block if your keen. There is a thread on here that I started that eventually gets to some tips for installation at the bottom.
The Zuk I bought second hand had been treated like shit and as you say once I started fixing one thing I had to fix everything around it. Everything on my Zuk is brand new at the moment except for the suspension which is next. If I was you I would replace everything as you plan on doing including the water inlet pipe on the block if your keen. There is a thread on here that I started that eventually gets to some tips for installation at the bottom.
Yeah, it can be a bit of a pain spending money on fixing up a car that only cost $2500, but at least I know that I will be able to get from a to b without breaking down. I might ring around and see if I can get a kit to replace everything. Do you reckon it could be knocked over in a weekend by one person (friday night-->sunday night)? I doubt that there'd be any particular speicalist tools would there? Thanks for your help=SKB= wrote:That's a good way to be too.
The Zuk I bought second hand had been treated like shit and as you say once I started fixing one thing I had to fix everything around it. Everything on my Zuk is brand new at the moment except for the suspension which is next. If I was you I would replace everything as you plan on doing including the water inlet pipe on the block if your keen. There is a thread on here that I started that eventually gets to some tips for installation at the bottom.
Nick
I found that post that you were talking about, I remember reading it now that you mention it, too!! For anyone else that might read this later on, here's the link
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=
Nick
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=
Nick
You should be able to do it easy in a weekend.
Everything is bolt in and pretty simple if your just swapping things out. Just pay attention to how it all goes together and you'll have no drama. Should only need some coolant, some good silastic gasket sealant, new hoses, new clamps, replace your thermostat, and make sure you seal your new water pump on really well. The inlet pipe is covered in the other thread. You may find as I did that the metal pipe on your bottom rad hose assembly is rusted or corroded. I had one made using the existing bracket welded onto a peice of stainless bent to suit. One other tip is to use the gasket sealant on your hoses where they attach to metal. Makes it harder for them to blow off under pressure and limits (hopefully) future corrosion.
Everything is bolt in and pretty simple if your just swapping things out. Just pay attention to how it all goes together and you'll have no drama. Should only need some coolant, some good silastic gasket sealant, new hoses, new clamps, replace your thermostat, and make sure you seal your new water pump on really well. The inlet pipe is covered in the other thread. You may find as I did that the metal pipe on your bottom rad hose assembly is rusted or corroded. I had one made using the existing bracket welded onto a peice of stainless bent to suit. One other tip is to use the gasket sealant on your hoses where they attach to metal. Makes it harder for them to blow off under pressure and limits (hopefully) future corrosion.
The Tech bit from the other thread...
For anyone doing it...make sure you use a new genuine part and o-ring and as Cruzer! said some form of sealent. I used Silastic Gasket sealer (normally used on water pumps etc). Coat the o-ring on the pipe liberally as some will work its way back out of the hole on the block. The sealant also helps to hold the o-ring in place. I then smeared the pipe with more silastic around the pipe where it meets with the hole. Be wary of the o-ring moving or sliding back when you insert it as the casting inside the block can be rough and push it out of its seating. I learnt this the first time only after doing it up and pouring in the coolant, which preceded to leak out of the hole. It pinched against the pipe and block and I had to replace the o-ring. Let your sealant cure for a while and you should be right. I don't have pic's but hopefully there is some useful tech info for anyone changing their inlet pipe.
For anyone doing it...make sure you use a new genuine part and o-ring and as Cruzer! said some form of sealent. I used Silastic Gasket sealer (normally used on water pumps etc). Coat the o-ring on the pipe liberally as some will work its way back out of the hole on the block. The sealant also helps to hold the o-ring in place. I then smeared the pipe with more silastic around the pipe where it meets with the hole. Be wary of the o-ring moving or sliding back when you insert it as the casting inside the block can be rough and push it out of its seating. I learnt this the first time only after doing it up and pouring in the coolant, which preceded to leak out of the hole. It pinched against the pipe and block and I had to replace the o-ring. Let your sealant cure for a while and you should be right. I don't have pic's but hopefully there is some useful tech info for anyone changing their inlet pipe.
My radiator went at the top hose inlet....just cracked around the inlet and is prob the problem you've got. I'd just get a new radiator, i easily found one for $295 and have since found a place I can get them for $220 brand new. Do thermostat as its cheap and there but check which one you get as there are a few different ones in terms of opening temp..depending on climate may want to consider slightly higher or lower one. I think mine was 88C for reference and it warms up fine in brissie weather. Could do water pump if your keen. John
01 GU Patrol 4.2TD Wagon
Sounds like it!! Thanks for that. Like I said the radiator is pretty shiat anyway, so that doesn't surprise me. Would you mind mentioning where you found one so cheap (or pm me if you don't like to give a certain business a free advert). I will look at how much a water pump will be and have a good look at mine to see if it looks like its ever been replaced. I might as well go for the hoses while Im at it.Nev wrote:My radiator went at the top hose inlet....just cracked around the inlet and is prob the problem you've got. I'd just get a new radiator, i easily found one for $295 and have since found a place I can get them for $220 brand new. Do thermostat as its cheap and there but check which one you get as there are a few different ones in terms of opening temp..depending on climate may want to consider slightly higher or lower one. I think mine was 88C for reference and it warms up fine in brissie weather. Could do water pump if your keen. John
Thanks again,
Nick.
Most coolant issues do affect choke function.....as the auto choke is worked by hot water flow...Its right at the top of cooling system, so if water level drops, choke runs dry and plays up...so yes fix up leaking first, see what happens
christover
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
O.K. I replaced the radiator, ($318 from repco) the thermostat, a couple of hoses and the radiator cap. I decided to skimp on the pump and the pipe that =SKB= was talking about (I think that I probably should have done the lot while I was going, but oh well...).
The problem now is that for some reason my idle starts at 1000rpm when the car is first started and progresses up to 1250rpm as the car warms up. Adjusting the idle screw does nothing to help.
One of the two hoses going into the back of the carb (top, drivers side) is hot whilst the other is cold. I thought that it could be that when flushing the radiator something could have been dislodged and gotten stuck in the choke system on the carb?
But I took these hoses off and could blow air through them - suggesting that there is a clear passage.
There also seems to be some sort of whistling sound - could this be a vacuum hose that's been knocked off - would that explain the idle problem? I don't want to hear that it could be the pump bearings... not more bad news! It does sound like it's whistling near the carb, though, not down near the water pump.
Other than that, I have no idea!! any suggestions?
Thanks guys (and girls)
Nick.
The problem now is that for some reason my idle starts at 1000rpm when the car is first started and progresses up to 1250rpm as the car warms up. Adjusting the idle screw does nothing to help.
One of the two hoses going into the back of the carb (top, drivers side) is hot whilst the other is cold. I thought that it could be that when flushing the radiator something could have been dislodged and gotten stuck in the choke system on the carb?
But I took these hoses off and could blow air through them - suggesting that there is a clear passage.
There also seems to be some sort of whistling sound - could this be a vacuum hose that's been knocked off - would that explain the idle problem? I don't want to hear that it could be the pump bearings... not more bad news! It does sound like it's whistling near the carb, though, not down near the water pump.
Other than that, I have no idea!! any suggestions?
Thanks guys (and girls)
Nick.
both hoses should get hot, or water ain't flowing thru the choke. did you blow into the pipes, or thru the carby?
you msay need to flush heater and choke lines a bit more, radiator flush may help?
whistling could be an air leak or vaccuum leak...gaskets, seals and vac hoses could be a cause...but unless carby is perfect, it will make noises, especially round the spindle for the butterfly.
don't ya hate throwing money at something and still aint perfect
you msay need to flush heater and choke lines a bit more, radiator flush may help?
whistling could be an air leak or vaccuum leak...gaskets, seals and vac hoses could be a cause...but unless carby is perfect, it will make noises, especially round the spindle for the butterfly.
don't ya hate throwing money at something and still aint perfect
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
Yeah, it _really_ sucks. I did blow through the water hoses on the carby (both ways), but maybe the problem is further down the line - the hose on the passenger side joins up with another couple of hoses - maybe the blockage is down there somewhere - searched the manual from the suzukiinfo site but can't find what these other pipes are.christover1 wrote:
don't ya hate throwing money at something and still aint perfect
Thanks for your help
Nick
All fixed (touch wood). No more leaks and to fix the high idle problem, I juast blew the crud out of the lines going into and out of the carby. Just one more question on it that I've posted in the auto-electrical thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 745#899745 (it's more related to that than 'suzuki specific')
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