not your normal gq lift question

[badger]

i have just bought a gq wagon. it has a tough dog 6 inch lift and 35's
the front works fine and doesnt contact body as it has drop boxes and the arms are spaced forwards.
but the rear hits the whole wheel arch from front to back 2 inches before the bumpstops.
i love the height it has right now,
so do i lower it 2 inches and install a body lift (also makes it slightly more legal)
or do i leave the suspension alone and install 2 inch bump stop extensions?

i did a quater chop and trimmed the rear half of the gaurds on saturday and this helped a little but it still hits
also i still need to adjust the castor as the drop boxes are only for a 4 inch lift, so if i was to drop it back to 4 castor would be fine, and i have a mate willing to buy my springs for cost of new ones

whats your thoughts ppls
cheers

[stool]

Mabe a little less offset on the rims as it sounds like the tyres are sticking
out past the guards to far.

Unless you mean the tyres are hitting the inside wheel arch and chassis
rail which would be the same as most patrols.

[GRINCH]

id install longer bumpstops, saves the tyre jamming on the inside of the guaurd at full compression

[toughnut]

Have the bumpstops been modified to match the lift? If not that would be my first choice. Even if they have, I'd extend the bumpstops to suit rather than loose wheel track size or diameter.

Steve

[badger]

no it runs standard bump stops both ends

any hints

[toughnut]

no it runs standard bump stops both ends

any hints

The main reason you need to extend your bumpstop is to protect your shocks from bottoming out. Try this. Disconnect your rear panhard and remove your rear springs. Reconnect your rear panhard (for safety). Lower your truck until the rear either sits on your bump stops or your shocks bottom out. Your need about an inch of fat in your bump stops to properly protect your shocks. To extend them just unbolt your bump stops off your chassis and bolt or weld in some spacers.

Steve

[steel]

I'd do a body lift, that way u don't lose any wheel travel.

[toughnut]

I'd do a body lift, that way u don't lose any wheel travel.

He still needs to match his bump stops to his lift.

[steel]

As long as the shocks ar'nt bottoming out at full compression he can let the axle travel all the way up to standard bumpstops

[toughnut]

As long as the shocks ar'nt bottoming out at full compression he can let the axle travel all the way up to standard bumpstops

hence why I said he needs to match them to his lift. I'd personally steer away from putting in a body lift on top of a 6 inch lift though.

[badger]

i dont hit the bump stop of the shocks atm
they still have a good bit of travel left in them. i just hit the cab. its all well n good to say dont limit the flex but its already huge and being how strict they are here in qld going 2 inches more with a body lift, would be silly lol

and if i drop it down 2 inches i will lose travel as well wont i ?

[steel]

Wheel travel is dictated somewhat by shock length. if u change to 4 inch lift springs but keep the same shocks u will have the same wheel travel [although your spring may dislodge at full extension]. Extra down travel is sometimes hard to achieve, owing to suspension link limitations, but upward travel to the bump stop is easy [ designed in at the factory]. Personally i hate to loose compression in my suspension set up coz it's so happy working on that plane

[zer0]

ok i have to be the smart ass ....


guard choppy chop



Heath

[badger]

heath dude you are obviously confused by the fact my springs are round. they are meant to be this way its how they do it on a real truck

ok i had to be a smart ass

ps its not an mq i cant just cut off half the cab to fit tyres in