Why do my hubs keep blowing on my 75

[known 2]

well they did it again right rear hub on my 75 ute all i did was go around a left hand corner then give it some gas and bang!

it was only recently replaced with a seconhand one.

can anyone help me with a couse for this problem cos i'm stumped or a solution.

tha fact it's a v8 probly dun help.

cheers

[+dj_hansen+]

combination of V8, 35's, and hard cornering.... change your studs over to 100 series, that should fix the problem.

[Big Red Toy]

well they did it again right rear hub on my 75 ute all i did was go around a left hand corner then give it some gas and bang!

it was only recently replaced with a seconhand one.

can anyone help me with a couse for this problem cos i'm stumped or a solution.

tha fact it's a v8 probly dun help.

cheers

Thats the problem

[Shadow]

What part of the hub is going? is it just the axle studs?

If its the axle studs, as dj hansens aid you can upgrade to larger 100series axle studs, but youl need to drill the axle flange to accept the larger cone washers.

If its not the axle studs that are going, rather the hub itself shitting itself, it could be a bent diff housing.

[lay80n]

Or bent axle putting uneven stress on studs/hub unit.

Layto....

[bazooked]

layto is right, bent axle or housing.

[Goatse.AJ]

That's what I reckon also. Park it on level ground and do a visual check.

[chimpboy]

That's what I reckon also. Park it on level ground and do a visual check.

Or don't bother checking and just replace the whole axle..?

[Shadow]

That's what I reckon also. Park it on level ground and do a visual check.

Or don't bother checking and just replace the whole axle..?

with another possibly bent housing?

[mule75]

i had heaps of problems with axle studs, just replaced with 10mm allen bolts ages ago and not one prob since. also put axle and hub in lathe and machined all mating surfaces to make them fit perfect

[known 2]

it's the bolts on the hub itself not the wheel studs.

and when i say was replaced with a seconhand hub all new bolts were used and thats what snaped.

so u reckon a bent axel housing or bent axel could do it hey ?
it broke the rite side this time last time it broke the left so maybe the whole diff housing is warped?

[lay80n]

it's the bolts on the hub itself not the wheel studs.

and when i say was replaced with a seconhand hub all new bolts were used and thats what snaped.

so u reckon a bent axel housing or bent axel could do it hey ?
it broke the rite side this time last time it broke the left so maybe the whole diff housing is warped?

Dude, the bolts on the hub are studs - Axle studs, which is what is being talked about here. If you are breaking both sides, the bent housing might be likley, or just your right foot . My diagnosis was based on the same side breaking repeatedly. If its different sides, its probably not a bent axle, possibly a bent housing. Or just that the studs had enough Fatigue, and had finnaly said enough is enough. Get your housing cheched for tru-ness and see how that comes up. Might need to restrain your right foot too

Layto....

[mule75]

i found some axle studs were bad quality(especially the don kyatt ones). If it's set up right and everything is perfect you will still break an axle before the studs, but most people's hubs/axles have been belted with a hammer to get the cones out of the axle or studs stretched way past their used by. also make sure you still have the two pins or the studs wont last 10 seconds. if you want to stay with standard studs use only brand new genuine but they do cost heaps, just as much as upsized ones so upsize is the way to go. there is nothing worse than busting studs on the first day of a big trip!!!!!!!! go 10mm.

[known 2]

i know what u meen i will get the housing cheked on friday or put 60 diffs under it.

as for giving it a bit much i only got it back on tuesday and had bearly driven it in a month so i was eager to take it out and boot it. so i shot myself in the foot cos now it's off the road again

[markil]

You broke the studs on one side and replaced them with new ones, then you drove it again and broke the studs on the other side without putting new studs in that side I presume... sounds to me like the studs were just past their use by date.

With new ones on both sides they should last while longer. But with the V8 and hard cornering you will be best upgrading to 10mm.

When I put the cruiser diffs under the zook I replaced both sides with new original studs and haven't any dramas with them at all, and that's daily driving with a welded rear centre too.

[lay80n]

Dont think that the 60 diffs will fix your problem. Best bet would be to get some 10mm studs.

Layto....

[markil]

or put 60 diffs under it.

The 60's have the same studs, that's what I have.

[lay80n]

They are all the same till the 100 came out with the 10mm studs from memory. Belive me 60 studs break just as easy if your hard on them.


Layto....

[Shadow]

or put 60 diffs under it.

The 60's have the same studs, that's what I have.

and i think a 60 series diff would create problems for you at the front as the 75 series has the springs mounted further in on the housing, which means the spring perch rides up against the diff pumpkin.

[Pesky Pete]

Same deal for me in my 80. I went the 10mm studs. But dont bother with aftermarket, go get genuine ones. Costs heaps but since changing them I havent done one. Do the rear too, its not much more work, but worth the effort.

[Shadow]

Same deal for me in my 80. I went the 10mm studs. But dont bother with aftermarket, go get genuine ones. Costs heaps but since changing them I havent done one. Do the rear too, its not much more work, but worth the effort.

his problem is the rear

[known 2]

both rear hubs were replaced so i presume new bolts were used on both sides.

i just wana get it back on the road and sell it.

[Reddo]

but to break the studs, the locating pins would also have to break...so, this may be the proble, ie, shagged out locating pins. Also a good idea to put in more pins, and this is easier than putting in bigger studs.

[markil]

both rear hubs were replaced so i presume new bolts were used on both sides.

i just wana get it back on the road and sell it.

It'll be pretty obvious to tell whether the studs on the replaced hubs are new or not. Just have a look for yourself. New ones should be nicely painted black or be silver/chrome, old ones would be dirty and/or rusty

[mule75]

but to break the studs, the locating pins would also have to break...so, this may be the proble, ie, shagged out locating pins. Also a good idea to put in more pins, and this is easier than putting in bigger studs.

when the studs start to flog the pins work there way out all of the time, it's either new hubs and axle or bigger studs to fix the problem.