Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well Wayne and I picked up the zook on Monday, and the GQ diffs are waiting as is the V6 commo and auto. We need an LT230 transfer soonish as well as an adaptor, but first things first, we will start the strip down of the zook.

PICS





Its a 1ltr, and diffs, transfer, engine, gearbox, wheels and tyres etc will be out soon, so if you need any bits and peices drop me a PM

Had a drive od CAP51Z's zook the other day, and am thinking a wheel base near 98" would be good

looking forward to this little project

WTF is the bar on the wheel carrier for?

Mud_Muncher wrote:WTF is the bar on the wheel carrier for?

apparently the previous owners were shooters, there is a hole in the roof for a spotlight, and both the rear veiw mirrors have being converted to very crude rest point for shooting from. I presume the bar on the rear was something to do with this, or possibly a rack to hang game on after shooting?

go the double speed stripe ... must be one fast 1 liter
and isn't cap'z zook a lwb style side

ofr57 wrote: and isn't cap'z zook a lwb style side

yeah, has WB bout 95" I think he said, will chop the rear right off and ute it, will need a chassis extension that is for sure

did some measurments, to get the wheel base I want, I reckon I will need to extend the chassis by about 12", might make the cab into a space cab open back thing with a tube tray, with room to fit a fridge, stove etc and make a rack to fit a couple of swags on the roof. as much as this is going to be a comp rig, it needs to be ok for weekend trips as well, with the v6 it will need a decent fuel tank, and will need to have the radiator mounted at the rear so it may be difficult to triangulate the reart coil overs as much as I would have liked to

I keep hearing of the 3.8l commo motor going into Sierra's, but have doubted the legality of doing this conversion. Has anyone managed to have it successfully engineered? Manual or Auto transmission? still with a full transfer case?

Awww......little old zooks are so cute

vl (?) commodore donk in a zook with auto has been done.. Pat's zook: Otis in 4wd monthly
he bought the commodore for 900 bucks complete and got it all engineered.. would be awesome.. oh and he put hilux diffs under his.

Otis is running a 3.8L Holden Commodore VP engine i'm pretty sure.

is it a 3.8L or the RB30 3.0L engine you are putting in Tiny?

4wdnut wrote:Otis is running a 3.8L Holden Commodore VP engine i'm pretty sure.

is it a 3.8L or the RB30 3.0L engine you are putting in Tiny?

3.8, not sure if it is vn or vp, wayne has the commo, have to check with him, but the engine is ready to go.

going the GQ diffs coz I have a pair of locked ones sitting thee I was going to use in a buggy

commos have being done, apparently pretty easy, but the radiator doen need to be moved to the rear, with the transfer and auto, it will need a custon trans tunnell as I want minimal body lift

i think the VP and VN engines are the same, but the VN's engine wasn't fitted correctly, which they fixed in the VP. i cant wait for this build up, i'm a big sierra fan.. and adding a holden motor tops it off.. hope all goes well.

ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.

vn series two and vp are the same vn series 1 is not worth pissing on drama's galore thermostat at rear of motor different bellhousing on manuals over heating crap crap crap but autos to suit are turbo 700 and are vacume controlled same as turbo 400 easy to to servise and shift kit but with electric overdrive in them witch can be used by a simple switch allowing you to use a manual commputer for more control with ajustable cable kick down . un like the vr, same motor minus coil packs and altanater but full elec auto but you can hold the gear you want at any time , the vs different motor eccotec (over rated) had similar box not interchangable though, with computer, had a safty built into box/COMPUTER so as not to hold gears and cant change down early it wont let you
hope this helps somone
trival crap for the night. good night. ZZZ ZZZ ZZZ ZZZ

bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.

and crank angle sensor on s1??


i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it

I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.

and crank angle sensor on s1??


i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it

I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself

yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...

bazooked wrote:

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.

and crank angle sensor on s1??


i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it

I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself

yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...

I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendle

I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.

I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.

suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.

the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy

Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.

and crank angle sensor on s1??


i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it

I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself

yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...

I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendle

I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.

I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.

suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.

the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy

Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY

Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???

Layto....

lay80n wrote:

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.

and crank angle sensor on s1??


i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it

I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself

yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...

I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendle

I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.

I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.

suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.

the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy

Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY

Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???

Layto....

for rego, easily removable, will talk to the engineer, but if this will make it easier then why the hell not at the end of the day if we put the effort in to get its onroad maners good, then maybe some other things like v6 and GQ diffs will not be such a problem?

I know you said that you are using GQ diffs because you have them but they are going to chew a lot of unnessery power in a suzuki unless you plan on running 44 inch tyres that will never be on road. what diff ratio are you going to run and what type and how many transfer cases are you planning?

offroader-rama wrote:I know you said that you are using GQ diffs because you have them but they are going to chew a lot of unnessery power in a suzuki unless you plan on running 44 inch tyres that will never be on road. what diff ratio are you going to run and what type and how many transfer cases are you planning?

i dont see the power being an issue given the V6, strenght of the front e nd for digs is a huge benifit, one transfer lt230 rations will be 4.88s on 37s with the possabuility of bigger tyres later, will see about what reduction may be need later, but the auto is benaficial gearing wise

and you are going to have that legal on the road with 37's who is the engineer because all i want is 31's on hilux diffs with coils and discovery a frame and if he'll apove that then id have no problem . But i am have lots of problems finding an engineer no one will touch it

offroader-rama wrote:and you are going to have that legal on the road with 37's who is the engineer because all i want is 31's on hilux diffs with coils and discovery a frame and if he'll apove that then id have no problem . But i am have lots of problems finding an engineer no one will touch it

i will see what tyres will be engineered, but I doubt 37s will, and definatly not the bias ply ones

your in nsw arnt you, thats why, it would be a dream in queensland to be remotley legal.

Tiny wrote:

lay80n wrote:

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:

Tiny wrote: and crank angle sensor on s1??


i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it

I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself

yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...

I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendle

I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.

I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.

suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.

the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy

Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY

Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???

Layto....

for rego, easily removable, will talk to the engineer, but if this will make it easier then why the hell not at the end of the day if we put the effort in to get its onroad maners good, then maybe some other things like v6 and GQ diffs will not be such a problem?

if the engineer has any clue he wont let u put a panhard on a tri 4 link

have u actually talked to an engineer?

Tiny wrote:did some measurments, to get the wheel base I want, I reckon I will need to extend the chassis by about 12", and will need to have the radiator mounted at the rear so it may be difficult to triangulate the reart coil overs as much as I would have liked to

why are u extending the chassis?

how much are u planning to lay over ur coilovers

this doesn't look like its got much chassie extension and it wouyld surly have a wb over 100"

redzook wrote:

Tiny wrote:did some measurments, to get the wheel base I want, I reckon I will need to extend the chassis by about 12", and will need to have the radiator mounted at the rear so it may be difficult to triangulate the reart coil overs as much as I would have liked to

why are u extending the chassis?

how much are u planning to lay over ur coilovers

well based on tyres not going past front for rear, and with a wheel base of 80 stock and 37s on it, front moving forward bout 3-4" a 12' extension seems about right, but it is hard to tell without cutting the back off and laying everything down and under it

all plans at this stage are open, and based on looking and thinking, not fitting and trying

Tiny wrote:

lay80n wrote:

Tiny wrote:

bazooked wrote:

Tiny wrote: and crank angle sensor on s1??


i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it

I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself

yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...

I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendle

I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.

I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.

suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.

the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy

Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY

Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???

Layto....

for rego, easily removable, will talk to the engineer, but if this will make it easier then why the hell not at the end of the day if we put the effort in to get its onroad maners good, then maybe some other things like v6 and GQ diffs will not be such a problem?

The road manners will suck arse. Trying to make a suspensions system move in a plane it shouldnt move in is generally not a good idea Whats wrong with a tri-4 link on the road anyway??

Layto....

Layto....

lay80n wrote:

The road manners will suck arse. Trying to make a suspensions system move in a plane it shouldnt move in is generally not a good idea Whats wrong with a tri-4 link on the road anyway??

Layto....

Layto....

prolly right, I suppose nothing, and engineeer should be happy provided the links are bushed not hiems