new wheels picked up tongiht :)

[vicelore]

hey guys as promised . my new wheels

any sujestions on how to get them to fitt freely

is it totaly nessary to move the front diff forward ?
or could i just get a fab dude to just shorten the firewall a bit


ideas on the fitt would be awesome.

heres some pics

[nicbeer]

Get a hammer and bash the seams in on the firewall and the front tube bash or cut wherever it rubs. Most cut the tube off and make a bar or mod bumper to fit.

Look at christovas thread on front diff move as well for a $0 modification.

Nic

[vicelore]

another pic and ill have a read of that tongiht.

[christover1]

Man they look awesome

[vicelore]

stupid question time.

which way do the tread go ?

[christover1]

rotation direction is usually a little arrow on sidewall...if not the tread shapes an arrow at top of tyre pointing forward.
They go round something like this

[christover1]

In the top photo you can see the arrow.

And that ones wrong way

[vicelore]

haha nice animation man.

umm they put one tyer on the wrong way :(

so back to the issue of me not being able to gry my new toys.

is it defently nessary to move the front axel forward ?

how hard is this i just read over your walk through chris but i dunno how involved this is.

how long would it take to get done ?

can i buy your handy work for a day to come help me ? hehe

[nicbeer]

Not too hard, allow a couple hours of drilling and spannering.

Have a drive with them as is and see where they rub, take a hammer with you as well.

Nic

[vicelore]

i dont think its drivable.

not untill i atleast cut the front bumper off and hammer the seams.


is it a big job to cut away at the firewall a bit ? i think if i hired a decent fabracator he could do it in a few hours and probaly make it so no one can see it.

i would prefer not to mess with the suspension if i can avoid it.

[christover1]

It is not necessary to move diff forward, but it can give you a bit more room near the firewall/footwells. It's not hard if you think its needed. But best to wait and see.
I would not do it as a first choice. It is a bit dodgy. Live with it and see what ya need.
In short term, space the bumpstops to stop tyre coming up too high.
And as said, bash the sharp seems flat, and go for a drive carrying hammer with you.

I am happy to give you a hand if needed.
But my health goes up and down, so I'm occassionaly unreliable.
Pretty right this time of year, just gotta squeeze in between the family xmas crud

christover

[84ZOOKSTA]

what did you end up getting 31'sor 32's??

[jtraf]

The only way you will be able to tell how much cutting is on compression.

You will need at minimum a 50mm bump stop spacer if not more.

You will have to cut the firewall and the headlight bucket. If you have a trolly jack and a piece of chain you can compress the front end and see where it hits. Compress turn back and forth and cut and bash till the tyre doesn't hit any more.

Don't do the drive it and see thing cause you will cut the tyres up pretty bad cause the 32in simex's rub and rub hard and there is nothing worser than cutting up new tyres.......

Thats how I did mine......

Where abouts in Melbourne r u?

James

[vicelore]

they are the 32s

thanks for that chris it dosent look like its gonna be too bad. i will have to limit up travel allot tho i think.
what u make your stops out of ? jsut scrap steel ? i take its they are the same on the back ?

umm do u guys know of any short term things i could do with the front bumper as that defently needs to move or be removed . i could just snap tie the indicators on but that will be pulling cops eyes and i dotn really wanna take my BL out to get a roadworthy.

will cuttin the bumper brackets limit me from many aftermarket bars in the future ?

Cheers again guys.

[vicelore]

hey man im from somerville about 2 mins out of frankston. got some friendly hands ?

[christover1]

No bumpstop spacers are needed on my rear, and I doubt yours will have any rear troubles.

My front spacers are scrap aluminium

[suzuki boy]

Vicelore that looks awsome!

Are the rims you got off set? Me and a guy off here got some of those speedy rims(Old cj jeep wheels) for $45 bucks each and now i'm saving for 31's and gears!

Have you got gears? Because you will have no low range really !

LOOKS AWSOME

[cohunas]

That looks awesome Vicelore!
I am currently as around the same stage but have decided to use 31' mud terrains and 2" spring lift instead of body lift on my WT project.
Looks like you've got some work getting clearance now..., didn't i read on another thread that you bought an arb bbar?
If so you can fit that and chop off the bumper mounts near the chassis rails.

[vicelore]

i was gonna buy one ended up spending the money on beer.
will still get one down the track.
yea im in the process of chopping the mounts off today.

started with some hammering this morning just so i can get it to a rolling stage so i can take it to a fab bloke so he can have a chop at the firewall.

im not sure how much hes goin to have to take off. but i would think about a inch or maybey a little less.

heres a pic of my hammering job i think ill be out there for a while today they are pretty strong bastsrds to move lol.

[vicelore]

Choppy Chop Chop

[suzuki boy]

I have a bull bar on mine and i just had a look and those mopunts are still there!

Will have to come off when the 31's go on ! At the moment it's just sitting there!

If you want a bar there is a stinger style on on ebay at the moment and it's only up to $80!

LOOKIN GOOD

Was looking at the last pick and you don't have diff breathers. Do you get any water in?

[vicelore]

hey guys well after a day of playing around hammering seams and cuttin off my front bumper mounts i am kinda in a wierd place.

im not to sure if i should be cuttin into the firewall which if i dont move the font diff will need to be done.

or if i should be moving it.

i have spoked to a metal worker who lives next door to my buddy. he said he could do the cut and welding . we had a ponder over the job and just so long as there is 2 layers of metal in the firewall. and has enough room . he thaught it woudnt be a problem.
he did think that the flare might need to move around the wheel or be legnthened.

so my next question is is tehre 2 layers of metal one as the floor pan behind the pedals and one in the actual wheel arch ??

is there any cables leads anything in between them ?

Cheers guys and keep up the imput i appreciate it.

ps ill prob do a write up on the cutting for anyone interested.

[muppet_man67]

have a look at how Christover has moved his diff forward. pretty simple really.

[vicelore]

yea i have looked but im not sure if i sohuld do that or cutt.

so u think thats what i should be doin not cutting the firewall ?

[cj]

By moving it forward you will if even only a little, improve both your wheelbase and approach angle and that can only be a good thing.

[msh]

I recon you'd want to move the diff first, cheaper to do, and easily reversed if you don't like, can't really turn back once you hack into the firewall, you may need to do both anyway.

I did my seams today, didn't take long at all, bent them over with vice grips then hammered. Although don't think mine are as flat as yours.

[84ZOOKSTA]

Move the diff.
Cut the wall.

What ever you prefer to do.

By moving the diff you can always move it back.

Once the fire wall is cut there is no changing it back

[just cruizin']

The firewall is an integral part of the vehicle, I won't be cutting it. Heard some where some states require engineering approval for any firewall mod.

[vicelore]

still really unsure what way to go on this.

i get a fair bit of rub on the wheels when locked aswell . should i be using wheel spacers ? or seomthing ?

its starting to look like i bit off more than i expected with the wheels.

:(

[vicelore]

i think i herd there was a way to limit the travel when turning hows that work ?