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300 tdi not starting

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Posts: 268
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:00 pm
Location: Brisbane

300 tdi not starting

Post by Rangie ute on 38'' »

hi all, having a bit of trouble getin my 97 300 tdi started, heres the work ive carried out while ive been with out a licence, it ran perfect,

so ive changed the timing belt, new glow plugs(cause one wasnt working), new sump gasket, new gasket on the coolant port out of the block into the water pump, removed the head and did stem seals, valve grind, new head gasket, rocker cover gasket, since reassembling ive done the valve clearance and bleed the fuel system up to the injectors but no fire at all,

ive re bleed couple of times i am getin fuel to the injectors, havent done comp test yet, tested new glow plugs, its winds and turns find,

are there ne ideas, ive looked at the shut off solinode, and found that with the ignition on theres power to it and makes a light click, is this right, or should it engage on ignition off, perhaps the plunger is jammed, but y is there still pressure out of injector lines at the injector

sorry for the long story but help is appreciated, tomorow i will bring a comp gauge home from work.
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Post by 460cixy »

if the solinoid was r/s there would be no fuel so i would say its ok. i would re check the cam timeing first of all if that checks ok re check valve clearance if there ok then yeah re bleed it and keep trying if no joy compression test does it sound normal when cranking it over?
range rover & series one landy!
Posts: 268
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Post by Rangie ute on 38'' »

well i comp tested, today and got about 200 psi, the specs read 19.5 to 1 ratio , whats the conversion, 200 is not good for a diesel to me, i know there is no ring issue, so i think i will recheck cam timing and valve clearence 4sixty
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Post by Bush65 »

I assume you used a timing pin in the drive for the injector pump.

Because of the slack in the belt as you fit it over the pulleys, it is easy to get a tooth out on the camshaft or injection pump, if you are not careful.

Before putting the front cover back on, it is best to rotate the engine 2 turns and check that the timing pin fits into the pump, and the mark on the cam is aligned, when no 1 cyl is at tdc.

I doubt you need glow plugs where you are.
John
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Post by 460cixy »

thats about 13 bar i would expect about 20 bar at a guess
range rover & series one landy!
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Post by RangingRover »

From memory tdis should throw way over 300psi on a comp test - a 8.23 v8 shows 150 ish, so double that should roughly be equal to 17:1 comp.....
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
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Post by Rangie ute on 38'' »

yea as i expect comp is low, ummm pin on the drive for the injection pump, i didnt use, this afternoon i came to the point where i have diognosed every fault possible except cam timing, so ive ripped into the radiator and front cover and will hopefully recheck timing, i think like stated above i was careful removing old belt and fitting new one however the possiblity of losing a tooth while tentioning the belt has occured, it will explain the low compression if the valves are slightly cracked while on a comp stroke or the fuel crack is timed rong. fingers crossed, its a good learing curve as diesel are generally easy to fix, and most diesels ive worked on are easy to diognose,
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Post by Gruntahunta »

So what was the outcome of the diagnosis????

Cheers..................Pete! :?
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity!
Posts: 268
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Location: Brisbane

Post by Rangie ute on 38'' »

ok soive done all the timing chec andfond the injector pump slightly out, i put this down to the slackness taking up out of the belt, ive used a 3/8 bolt for the pump pin and aligned all of it, turned it overand she fired on bout two cylinders, snce then im in adifferent state and havent got home yet, to run but should be a simple matter of cracking injectors and bleeding,
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