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Unwilling Starter Motor? *Updated*
Moderator: Micka
Unwilling Starter Motor? *Updated*
I am having trouble starting my V-eight ('84 Stage One), and I want this thing running ASAP, the snow is just around the corner!
It fired right up and ran smooth, 4-5 months ago. Now, the starter seems to crank a little slow (had 14+ volts on the battery, also tried to run the power straight into the starter), especially when the plugs (tries to?) ignites the fuel/ether mix. When the cycle is close to ignition, it will jerk and rock the whole vehicle, also while making some strange scraping noises. It's almost as if the timing is off, but it's an electronic system and should adjust itself – besides, I haven't touched that stuff.
I've only changed oil, filter and sump gasket since last time it ran, not touched anything other than that. Fuel is pouring and it has semi-bright spark.
What could this be? Next is to jump-start the thing, drag it a little around (2nd gear, high-series?) in order to transfer a little heat and motion to these components. Hope it helps. Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
It fired right up and ran smooth, 4-5 months ago. Now, the starter seems to crank a little slow (had 14+ volts on the battery, also tried to run the power straight into the starter), especially when the plugs (tries to?) ignites the fuel/ether mix. When the cycle is close to ignition, it will jerk and rock the whole vehicle, also while making some strange scraping noises. It's almost as if the timing is off, but it's an electronic system and should adjust itself – besides, I haven't touched that stuff.
I've only changed oil, filter and sump gasket since last time it ran, not touched anything other than that. Fuel is pouring and it has semi-bright spark.
What could this be? Next is to jump-start the thing, drag it a little around (2nd gear, high-series?) in order to transfer a little heat and motion to these components. Hope it helps. Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Last edited by TLCOR on Sat Jan 27, 2007 1:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bling? Bling? Cling.
If its a standard electronic ignition system, I highly doubt it will adjust itself.... Scraping noise to me suggests starter pinion gear not disengaging properly? Very hard to say without being able to hear it.....
14+ volts on the battery sounds very wrong though - are you saying it has 14 volts now, or just after it ran last time? A battery will show higher voltages during running (while alternator is charging) and just after a good drive when switched off, but should settle back to about 12.5 for a fully charged battery - if its holding a lot more, sounds very odd to me....
14+ volts on the battery sounds very wrong though - are you saying it has 14 volts now, or just after it ran last time? A battery will show higher voltages during running (while alternator is charging) and just after a good drive when switched off, but should settle back to about 12.5 for a fully charged battery - if its holding a lot more, sounds very odd to me....
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Yeah, that noise was really weird, very hard to explain, but it wasn't like something was grinding. I'm positive the starter gear engaged the flywheel properly.
I had jumper leads coming from a second vehicle, whose alternator charged 14 volts, not wrong at all. Without the extra juice, the starter would drain the battery instantly (it ran slower with less voltage, also), even though it's a fresh-ish battery with 12.5 volts. I guess I should've measure the amperage, though?
I had jumper leads coming from a second vehicle, whose alternator charged 14 volts, not wrong at all. Without the extra juice, the starter would drain the battery instantly (it ran slower with less voltage, also), even though it's a fresh-ish battery with 12.5 volts. I guess I should've measure the amperage, though?
Bling? Bling? Cling.
Slow Cranking Problem:...........I'd be checking the brushes in the starter motor to make sure they are not stuck and not making contact. I did one in a rodeo a few weeks ago that was very sluggish to turn over with full battery power. 2 of the 4 brushes were stuck and not contacting properly. Gave the armature a good cleanup on the lathe and freed up the brushes and it is as good as new now.
It looked like it had been wet inside and had a bit of surface rust on the brush holders. Given the place you live, it could be a possibility!
Hope this helps...................Pete!
It looked like it had been wet inside and had a bit of surface rust on the brush holders. Given the place you live, it could be a possibility!
Hope this helps...................Pete!
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity!
Gday do you mean the bleed nipple on the front brake callipers should be near the line in ????TLCOR wrote:Any word on this, folks?
And BTW, where the hell is the front bleeder valve/nipple??
As for the starter take it out pull it down and clean it out as the funny noise you hear is the brushes arcing and not working rite sounds like its been wet and has rust inside ....
cheers
chris
Cheers
Chris
Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
Chris
Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
I didn't see your replies until now, sorry.
I meant the nipple on the front drums, I was a little bummed out they were placed on the bottom - bleeding valves ought to be as high up as possible. Anyway, I got my brakes and clutch bled, and it works like a charm - I can lock all tires almost too easily now.
After following my own advices (and some UNIMOG pulling help), I got the thing fired up again too. But unlike last time, the oil pressure lamp didn't go off, so I didn't leave it running too long. I wonder what this can be? I think I'm going to unscrew the oil filter, and see if oil pours out the pump while cranking. Or is it better to pull of the rocker and check up by the valvetrain?
I meant the nipple on the front drums, I was a little bummed out they were placed on the bottom - bleeding valves ought to be as high up as possible. Anyway, I got my brakes and clutch bled, and it works like a charm - I can lock all tires almost too easily now.
After following my own advices (and some UNIMOG pulling help), I got the thing fired up again too. But unlike last time, the oil pressure lamp didn't go off, so I didn't leave it running too long. I wonder what this can be? I think I'm going to unscrew the oil filter, and see if oil pours out the pump while cranking. Or is it better to pull of the rocker and check up by the valvetrain?
Bling? Bling? Cling.
Ya think? Ugh, I guess I have to bring out the Vaseline, then?
But isn't it strange that with the revolutions I had going on (1. gear, downhill) and the packed oil filter, wouldn't the oil pump gain suction and start lubricating? I bet I couldn't get the dizzy shaft to turn any faster (which is a frequent tip to get the pump to suck).
But isn't it strange that with the revolutions I had going on (1. gear, downhill) and the packed oil filter, wouldn't the oil pump gain suction and start lubricating? I bet I couldn't get the dizzy shaft to turn any faster (which is a frequent tip to get the pump to suck).
Bling? Bling? Cling.
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