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roll cages in kit form
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roll cages in kit form
just wondering if anyone in Melbourne does these.Looking for a 6 point for gq lwb,any contacts/rough prices would be appreciated.
Re: roll cages in kit form
sandy bowman at Aus4wd does most of the comp cars, and his roll cages around 2k for 6pt cage but i dont think thats a kit. I think you give him a stripped out vehicle and he will fit it for you.mudtrekka wrote:just wondering if anyone in Melbourne does these.Looking for a 6 point for gq lwb,any contacts/rough prices would be appreciated.
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Bond Rollbars (In syd but will ship) sell kits. the way it works (for CAMS certification anyway) is that either the installer (ie the guy who welds it together) certifies the cage, or you return the vehicle to the kit supplier and they inspect and certify it.
There is a lot of work involved in doing it right (interior fully stripped, sometimes dashboard out, doors off, windscreen out, etc etc) so if you are going to DIY you really need to know what you are doing before you start. There is also a lot of work involved in assembling the kit - most kits will not be notched, as every vehicle is different and a good, tight fit is necessary to ensure the cage is strong. If you are adding cross door bars, cross hoop bars etc (and you should, the cage isn't really all that strong without them), the cutting, notching and linishing required to get really good welds takes a LONG time - 1+ hour per joint easily. Add to that that you need to weld all the way around every joint, and cross bars can make some very acute angles that you just can't hit with a MIG, so you have TIG equipment and skillz too to really do the job right. If you want a bolt-in solution, they are also available, but they are more expensive and only a fraction of the strength of a welded cage. 'Kit' cages typically won't come with instructions, just a bunch of bent tubes (marked/identified if you're lucky). EVERY tube will need to be cut to length, most will have to be notched, and a lot will need to be cut at fairly precise angles to make it all fit together nicely.
Give Bond a call anyway, they are very helpful guys and will tell you everything you need to know http://www.bondrollbars.com/ has all the contact details.
cheers
DD
There is a lot of work involved in doing it right (interior fully stripped, sometimes dashboard out, doors off, windscreen out, etc etc) so if you are going to DIY you really need to know what you are doing before you start. There is also a lot of work involved in assembling the kit - most kits will not be notched, as every vehicle is different and a good, tight fit is necessary to ensure the cage is strong. If you are adding cross door bars, cross hoop bars etc (and you should, the cage isn't really all that strong without them), the cutting, notching and linishing required to get really good welds takes a LONG time - 1+ hour per joint easily. Add to that that you need to weld all the way around every joint, and cross bars can make some very acute angles that you just can't hit with a MIG, so you have TIG equipment and skillz too to really do the job right. If you want a bolt-in solution, they are also available, but they are more expensive and only a fraction of the strength of a welded cage. 'Kit' cages typically won't come with instructions, just a bunch of bent tubes (marked/identified if you're lucky). EVERY tube will need to be cut to length, most will have to be notched, and a lot will need to be cut at fairly precise angles to make it all fit together nicely.
Give Bond a call anyway, they are very helpful guys and will tell you everything you need to know http://www.bondrollbars.com/ has all the contact details.
cheers
DD
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did you read my post?mudtrekka wrote:whats the problem with someone selling me some pre-bent cut to size tube (to the right specs of course),and getting it professionally welded.i doubt half the 4by shops that do cages have qualified welder doing the job.
there is no problem with that at all, I'm just saying there is a LOT of work involved - it's not just 'unpack the kit and weld it together'. The supply and bending of the tube is the cheap part, the assembly is expensive. If you have the skills and tools to DIY, go for it. If you have to pay someone to weld it (and trust me, it is not a job anyone will do for free), then get the rollbar shop to suppy and install. then you know it's done 100% right.
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