Hey guys,
Just wondering if anyone can offer some advice on the removal of the air con system from a 1985 110 and replacing the vents in the firewall.
I have made start on it but am a little concerned that the whole bottom section of the dash (that houses the air con ducting etc) is one piece and will need to replaced with either a 110 non A/C set up or later one from Defender.
Am I right on this, or do I just need to pull the whole bottom section out, separate the air con parts from it and then replace it as per usual non A/C set up?
Thanks for any advice.
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110 A/C remove replace with vents??
Moderator: Micka
110 A/C remove replace with vents??
85 Land Rover 110 V8 County
85 Land Rover 110 V8 County
85 Land Rover 110 V8 County
One or 2 of the guys on AULRO have done this already, best to ask there. The vents and ducting is contained in the centre section of the dash (beige/grey plastic section) and AFAIK you will need to remove this and all the associated ducting and pipework, and fit the fan, heater and centre dash section from a defender on non AC county.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... ight=vents
its a prick of a job but worth it. there are sooo many spotwelds behind those bits of plastic + you have to take the complete dash out, getting the wiring back in the same spot isn't easy either. It took me 2 days to do the dash and the column.
Andy
its a prick of a job but worth it. there are sooo many spotwelds behind those bits of plastic + you have to take the complete dash out, getting the wiring back in the same spot isn't easy either. It took me 2 days to do the dash and the column.
Andy
You will need to cut a plate about 20 cm x 5cm to cover a hole in the firewall above the passengers knees. I used alum plate and sikaflexed it to the engine bay side of the firewall. The lower dash remains but you need a dash tray, grey louvered panel and the metal piece which the vent controls attach to.(the existing one is similar but doesnt have the cutouts for the vent controls)
There is a LOT of redundant wiring fuses and relays etc which you now can remove, I was amazed at how much, almost half the loom.........+ all the vacuum lines for the controls and the big bulky box in the engine bay.
Its crazy how many spot welds they used to put those plates on. Dont forget to get some hinges for the flaps from the donor. I used Series 3 flaps, flyscreeens, hinges and controls as well as the metal mounting plate, the plastic bits (tray and grey louvered panel came from a Defender - obviously!)
You will have a lot of drill holes under the vent rubber to fill as well- I spot welded these up at the sime time the hinges were welded though the drill holes to the outside of the firewall.
Its a pain to do, but definitly worth it. Vents work better, it looks a lot better both inside and out and you get rid of a lot of cr*p that you dont need.
There is a LOT of redundant wiring fuses and relays etc which you now can remove, I was amazed at how much, almost half the loom.........+ all the vacuum lines for the controls and the big bulky box in the engine bay.
Its crazy how many spot welds they used to put those plates on. Dont forget to get some hinges for the flaps from the donor. I used Series 3 flaps, flyscreeens, hinges and controls as well as the metal mounting plate, the plastic bits (tray and grey louvered panel came from a Defender - obviously!)
You will have a lot of drill holes under the vent rubber to fill as well- I spot welded these up at the sime time the hinges were welded though the drill holes to the outside of the firewall.
Its a pain to do, but definitly worth it. Vents work better, it looks a lot better both inside and out and you get rid of a lot of cr*p that you dont need.
Mark2 wrote:You will need to cut a plate about 20 cm x 5cm to cover a hole in the firewall above the passengers knees. I used alum plate and sikaflexed it to the engine bay side of the firewall. The lower dash remains but you need a dash tray, grey louvered panel and the metal piece which the vent controls attach to.(the existing one is similar but doesnt have the cutouts for the vent controls)
There is a LOT of redundant wiring fuses and relays etc which you now can remove, I was amazed at how much, almost half the loom.........+ all the vacuum lines for the controls and the big bulky box in the engine bay.
Its crazy how many spot welds they used to put those plates on. Dont forget to get some hinges for the flaps from the donor. I used Series 3 flaps, flyscreeens, hinges and controls as well as the metal mounting plate, the plastic bits (tray and grey louvered panel came from a Defender - obviously!)
You will have a lot of drill holes under the vent rubber to fill as well- I spot welded these up at the sime time the hinges were welded though the drill holes to the outside of the firewall.
Its a pain to do, but definitly worth it. Vents work better, it looks a lot better both inside and out and you get rid of a lot of cr*p that you dont need.
Aint that the truth.
So as far as a heater go's.....do I just grab a Defender one or does it have to be from a County without A/C?
Also a Q about the heater controls. Usually they're mounted to the right hand side of the instrument pod, the fan controls are on the left (in a Defender anyway). If I grab these controls from a donor vehicle will they mount up alright under the County instrument pod or will I need to grab a Defender pod as well?
I would take a look at a 110 county without A/C to be sure, but to be honest I dont know of anyone has has a stock one to look at.

Thanks heaps for everyones help so far.
85 Land Rover 110 V8 County
85 Land Rover 110 V8 County
85 Land Rover 110 V8 County
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