Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The over the rod later type ones are worse for flex than the male threaded ones as well.

High mis heims with cro moly steering arms are the fix.

I was running 40" rears with 14" stroke on my GU ute, with 50mm bump spacers on the back, and running 29.5" fronts with 10" travel with 30mm bump spacers.

General rule of thumb is to allow 30mm of bump stop crush.

back in early 90's i used to use falcon ones on my gq shorty.

we need a 50mm rear spacer for our 29" shocks, so its a fair bet you will need 25-30mm, but you do really need to compress the shock and measure it, because some [rancho come to mind] dont really add up on compressed/extended lengths all the time. We add the spacer to the diff housing, not under ...

the diff was in a brand new 2.5 lt unit, and they were doing nothing lots of other standard cars in the group were doing, it just went "bang"

Aftermarket suspension, or better shocks only, and fiddle the rear 2nd stage leaves, and they ride very well. The best ute on the market, and drive/fit acc/work on all of them. We have a customer who is a trainer, and he has bought the hilux in V6 specifically for the purpose of towing horse floats ...

Saw one with a broken front diff in the high country last week.

Was bog stock with road tyres.

we have made alloy housings to take the rubber, and made them longer to suit our extended shocks we use.

They are bolt on.

most industry people have been talking about the patrol, and the doubtful new model, if at all, for patrol replacement.

Only nissan would think it had one more facelift left in it, but dont expect a new line up any time soon, if at all for the patrol after that.

What castor bushes are you using?? Well, we have found the better quality ones which have a steel sleeve through the centre, that you press in afterward work best for flex, they arent offset, as the drop boxes are what gives the castor correction, and keeps the front arms as close to horizontal as ...

We are now doing the style below, for around the same money, great imrpovement in aproach angle, and weighs about the same with winch as an ARB bar.

What castor bushes are you using??[/quote] Well, we have found the better quality ones which have a steel sleeve through the centre, that you press in afterward work best for flex, they arent offset, as the drop boxes are what gives the castor correction, and keeps the front arms as close to ...

check the plug on the alternator.

Does the oil light come on ?

We have a 700mm long 12" stroke unit we use for 80 and GQ/GU as well as using Fox to suit in longer applications as well for more flex. These shocks also run 15-25% stiffer comp and rebound than the same brands "normal" shocks, for heavier/harder applications. We have been using Dobinsons to roll ...

lube the plug on the back of the alt and make sure it "clicks" home.

Clean the terminals as well, before re assembly.

We like to run around 2.5 deg castor, and around 4-5mm toe in with that size tyre and lift to suit.

We also like to run 1-1.5 deg neg camber so they turn in.

Our GQ/ GU slinky coils [and 80 105 for that matter] are a 4" lift and stay captive with a 14" stroke shock no problem. We also have slinky coils for the front, as you can see in the ramp articulated pic. That pic is our suspension sway bars connected with the right links, bush pressure in the tyres ...

did it have a balck canvas back section, or chrome wheels ?

I think Our Fox kit it probably the ideal, but there are good Fox and other straight bolt ons that are good too. http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/aaa3DSCF0052.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/aaa1frontspring.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums ...

some had bolt on brackets, some had weld ons on recall, and it depends what model and what year specifically as to what cracked. My 92 model by 1994 had torn the front panhard mount off, torn the engine mounts off the chassis, broken the riubber engine mounts, torn the body mounts out, except one ...

95 4.5 petrol version 3" lift 12' stroke shocks, slinky coils, and 37"s SLEE front bar [rear bar and centre carrier coming, now bringing them in from the U.S] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/stanchec/easter08/DSC03226.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad ...

My suggestion would be to search the net, and find some good 4 link set up programs from pirate 4x4 or similar, as none of that engineering looks like it will suit a 4wd application.

We use [and sell] Fox, and we space a 4" one, but if you can buy a 2" one, may be easier for you.

I ran castor bushes in the back of the front arms, and had the eye nmachined 2mm bigger, and made a spacer for th width, to move the axle forward 12mm on my 78 series, for 36 x 13 swampers on 10" rims. Also just made up these below to move axle forward on my 80 for 37's, 12mm, to clear the mud flap ...

what do you mean by 2" spacing? what brands would you recomend?i was going to inport a pair of race runner 4". You only need 2" of hydro bump on the front, so if you have spacers made for inside the unit you use then you wont boil the oil in them, by using to much stroke as part of the suspension ...

twin shocks will help, poor mans option, of fit bypasses for adjustability.

hydo bumps work great, but not for the full 4" travel, have them spaced 2" to work better with the 80's up travel, so they dont become part of the suspension stroke.

Clutch industries safari clutch would be more than enough for that engine, and still function like a clutch, not a switch.

The gearbox, if in good condition will be more than enough for that engine.

Hamo wrote:

BB Chev.

That was what i put in mine.

yea and i put a keith black nitro motor in mine

What mounts did you use?

put the 40 body on an 80 chassis

Use donor 80 for all wiring, engine, running gear and chassis, etc required

I like this one of Garys

BB Chev.

That was what i put in mine.