Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Mr DJ wrote:Didn't think 75's had HP front from factory, thought they were same as rear like 60's

hj75 had the same low pinion diff front and rear (same as 60s), hzj75 got the smaller high pinion diff in the front (along with bigger CV joints) but kept the larger low pinion diff in the rear.

yes

What an awsome weekend! Realy well ran, great tracks and good people :P http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs449.snc3/25741_1429179928184_1193407716_1244177_2227320_n.jpg http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs469.ash1/25741_1429180088188_1193407716_1244180_8046857_n.jpg http ...

Ok good job, but tom_286 i cant use the old ones cause 9/10 of them break when splitting the cv off the axle. Cheers i shall head to toyota today Ahh ok I know the circlip as the clip you put on the end of the stub axle after half the freewheeling hub is on. What your talking about I thought was a ...

No new CVs Ive bought have come with circlips. Just use the ones from your old CVs

If you're going to be doing lots of winching spend the cash on a warn hi mount. If its only going to be on there for justin and wont get used all that much a cheeper low mount would be the go.

Are some free wheeling hubs on other toyotas differant? Dunno if this is the case, just an idea. They might have grabbed one from a 4 runner or something by mistake and that's causing the problem?

dogbreath_48 wrote:P.s. Should be a split pin on that steering arm/tie rod end nut

Good spot!

Here's what I mean:



Also make sure the hub is in the 'free' positing when it goes back together and looks something like in this pic.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r24/13101093/29122009.jpg Remember that the remaining part can only be put on in one of two ways. Those 6 notches the hub gear fits into, 4 have an extra bit of material in the middle of them and 2 (the ones up and dwon in this pic) are just a big notch. You can ...

98lux wrote:I have run the hose across the diff from pass side along the brake line and up the shock, Is this a good idea or not?

Keep in mind the shock will compress and extend as your suspension moves.

As for the winch.... Why? no one requires this and if you put the car on its lid or side and need to recover it during a stage you will need your winch even if you dont want car electrics for what ever reason. cheers smitty :D As you say I'm pretty sure most comps dont require the winch to be ...

beinthemud wrote:Looks like $500 for the motor and $200 for the solenoid

Remember you'll need 2 motors and if you go for that type of solendoid pack you'll need 2 of them as well.

Have fun everyone, enjoy the great weather we've had!

Standard Middy diffs are way too narrow for the car. Lux/bundy diffs are narrower again. Also The diff centres are weaker in a lux/bundy. Ive just put 60 series diffs under my middy, I recon go for something like that.

Where abouts will this be?

there is a mob in melb who do the patrol front diff centre into 80/100 series front housings... you get to keep the better brakes, better steering, better birfields, better suspension design of your 80/100 series and upgrade the front centre.... Plus no engineering needed... why do they use a ...

nathan114 wrote:will these dates be locked in definitely

Never take a CCDA comp date as definant till you're in the start box

But sounds like a great venue for round 4, awsome area.

did the 1hz bolt straight in ? Nope, engine is from an 80 series, gearbox and transfer are either 60 or 75 but not exactly sure what they are. Im pretty sure gear box cross member is standard but the engine mounts have been moved/modded. A 1hz 75 series dash was used so all the gauges match the new ...

wat about steering anyprobs there ? and has any 1 put 2h in one Havn't done the front yet and havnt given much throught to steering so far. Once the 60 diff is in there I'll sus it out but I'd imagine Ill need the steering arm from pitman arm to swivel housing 1" or so longer than a standard middy ...

Ive just put a rear 60 diff in my middy, front housing is about 70% done and soon will also be in. You'll gain about 2" track each end and they wont bolt in. Like Ray said you'll need to either move the spring perches on the diff housing closer together (aprox 25mm) or move the spring hangers on ...

A few snaps: http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs128.snc1/5491_1230495481197_1193407716_691334_429227_n.jpg http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs128.snc1/5491_1230495521198_1193407716_691335_4298595_n.jpg http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs128.snc1/5491_1230495561199 ...

A quick video from saturday:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqdesWlLlwU

Tweak wrote:set up a 24v system then convert it back to 12v for the winch
At leats with this there is power to burn

If you're car was setup for 24v you wouldnt bother running the winch off 12v!

We had a terminal melt off at Cliffhanger last year. We put it down to a loose connection.

Have fun everyone!

Mosko111 wrote:anyone have a gps' for dummies book??? and if so can i borrow it from knoe until the comp.

Grab yourself a copy of "GPS Vehicle Navigation in Australia" by Robert Pepper



http://www.gpsvehiclenavigation.com/GPS/

If we can get this orange thing in that grey thing in time I recon this'll be a fun week

Great shots Chippa, nice work getting them up so quick

Some good pics there collins