Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok, finally bit the bullet and ditched the missus's VS Commodore for a '95 V8/auto Disco. Sort of a swap thing, and since the VS owed me (and was worth) very little, i think i done ok........for now :?: After less than a day of ownership, i now have a nice list of 'must do's' ie dud vac advance unit ...

From memory, the electric versions have an extra (or differant) gearbox on the back of them compared to the PTO or hydraulic versions. PTO or hydraulic are direct drive to the worm i think. Adapted a (small) hydraulic motor to an electric Thomas winch 15 or so years ago for a guy and it was very ...

i have a '99 TF 2.8TD Rodeo that i'm thinking about converting to an auto trans (so the missus will drive it :roll: ) Anyone done this conversion? If so, what transmission did you use and what troubles did you have to overcome. Thinking a trans from a MU/Frontera (30-80LE ???) as a starting point. I ...

Anyone got any info on the wear of them? I'm looking at the possibility of them as my next set, but curious how many k's people have gotten out of theirs? Got around 45-50k from them on my Rodeo. Didn't like them much. OK onroad, no so flash offroad. Quite a few flats (stones through the tread ...

I done my NT last weekend. Half heartly looked at the re-drill on the rear mount, then gave up on it. Added 50mm to the front of the chassis (30 would have been ok), used the stock rear mount, front mount moved forward 30mm, std rear springs (4 leaf), +20mm (90mm) shackles, moved the bumpstops ...

My kit actually has a burst valve built in. I suppose in your case if it burst while it was on its way up it just would pump the oil out all over the place. If it burst while up it would come down at the speed of the oil getting displaced by the pistons moving and would depend on the leak and the ...

Micka wrote:

ricky1970 wrote:

I'd prefer her get a LWB Vit, missus likes the V8 's noise tho

You should try farting heaps when you're giving her the sweet lurv next time...she'll go off like mad when you change gears too.

hehe, sure she would love that .....................

That the one. $8k Only seen it last week as we don't normally go that way home.

Yeah, it a bit of a mess underneath, would think he would at least clean it if he wants to sell it.

I'd prefer her get a LWB Vit, missus likes the V8 's noise tho

Cheers, giving this one a miss.

Ok, the missus has decided enough of driving a Commadore and has found a Disco she likes (read 'wants'). '94 ES ,3.9L, auto, dual fuel ,extractors/big exhaust, mild lift (2" maybe), 265/75R16 BFG muds, 133K, asking price $5000. Its been offroad and has a few battle scar's, a tick noise from the ...

Thanks Johno, 600t :crazyeyes: that would one big arse press....haha looking around the 25t-30t range I already have a 10t single acting cylinder and an air/hyd pump for my bender by spx. But I dont think that pump will do 25t-30t ive looked at the P84 pump and RR3014 cylinder....(enerpac) cheers ...

While 12vdc power packs are readily available, there duty cycle would be hopeless for winching. They are really only suited for intermintant use, things like tailgate loaders, small cranes, ramps etc. Your 13.25l/min @ 1500psi equates to around 3.5-4hp (rough figures) and most of the common dc ...

That spring could be the other half to that ally plug if it doesn't have any hooked ends, ie it's a conpression spring not a stretch one. i remember when i pulled mine apart. when you pull the top half of the carb off, there are locating pins that sit on springs so you don't put the top half of the ...

Ok, looks like someone has changed the long side at some stage, as i just pulled the short side and it has the 6207 brg and a spacer. I take it by this the two differant bearing styles are somewhat interchangable, so what style is better?

I have a '85 LWB NT. Just in the process of changing the rear wheel bearings. Bearing kit are supose to be right for a NT. 6207??? bearing, lock collar and seal......no spacers. Now, just removed an axle and it has the bearing with the wide inner :bad-words: . I was under the impression this bearing ...

I have a Haynes manual, but its shows jack, about anything really

Sorted anyway, Plug and spring that sits over the acc pump discharge check, i think Its running sweet now anyway

Need a bit of help. Pulled the cars of my 1.3 Sierra to clean the crud out of it. Instruction with carby kit may as well not be in there, very basic pic at best. Nothing in manual, said replace carb :lol: I have a small spring that i'm having trouble finding a home for, about 3-4mm dia and 6-7mm ...

Hehe, some awsome engineering there. Wonder what it drives like?

What i'm trying to acheive is a HD standard (or close to) length shackle. Can anyone varify the std shackle pin dia, 12mm/12.7mm/13mm ? Can then machine up some 4140 pins and use 8 or 10mm side plates.

Yes it can be done, but you don't have the gear to do it properly. It would require an inline check (and bypass releif) to prevent back-flow as the vane type pump will drain back when stopped and this will leave the pump un-lubricated on startup, which will cause galling of the rear ring thrust ...

Yeah, seen those but no thanks. Wanting stock style pin design, where the side plate comes up to a shoulder and you can actually tighten the nut. Been down the bolts as pins route before and not a fan of them.

Anyone know the std Suzuki spring shackle pin dia and shackle length. Going to make up a new set to replace the dodgey and worn extended set on the Sierra. The pins are in a bad way and appear to be 13mm or 1/2" dia (bit hard to tell) and a shackle width of 62mm. I don't have a std set to measure ...

Mounting the resivoir low should not distract from the pump output pressure or flow wise, nor should it suck air if all connections are good. While mounting the tank higher than the pump is the desired way to do it, mounting it slightly lower should have no diverse effects. Just make sure the inlet ...

Shouldn't be more than a couple of amps, 3 at the outside. Could check for sure when i go back to work on monday.

We use these solenoid valves quite a bit and only run through relays if needed for control issues rather than to handle high currant draw.

How thin is the wiring?

The coils shouldn't draw that much currant. They are maybe 18 or 20 watt so relays arn't really required.

Also, dosn't hurt to give the plugs a good spray with something like Lanotec to stop corrosion of the terminals before its all tightened down.

PacMan wrote:Pin 1 and 2 is your coil.
I can not remember what pin earth was for.

Chris

The 3 pin DIN plug is common for both DC and AC use. Earth pin may be used for AC stuff. I always get a sparky when playing with AC gear so not too sure.

Ignore the centre one (marked earth) and use the two matching ones on the side for + and -.

Load sensed variable piston pump is what they would have been talking about. Good stuff but costs could quite easy get outta control. Variable vanes pumps are about, but by design are usually used in low pressure systems. Cheap and simple gear pump run of your existing PTO, basic solenoid valve or ...

Not percific to the 350 on a 1.3 or offroad, but the Holleys are very tuneable. Ran a few 500 2bl's on worked holden 6's years ago, and while low end response suffered a bit, they could be made to run quite well. Lots of stuffing around with PV channel restrictions to get it right and retain ...

Lada rims will not work- offset is way way wrong. 2wd f100 rims are an option but they need to have the centre bore enlarged GV rims are 16x7 but the offset is good. Lj's and commercial sierras used 16 x 4.5 rims with the correct offset. A bit narrow for 205's though Steve I have a set of the 16 x ...

Anyone know of any 16" x 6" or 6.5" rims that may have the correct offset for a Suzuki (NT)? Looking to run a narrow tyre, possibly 205R16. Tried a few tyre shops, but they only seem to be able to get a 16 x 7, which may a bit to wide for the 205R16, also seem very pricey compared to a 15x7 sunny ...