Outer Limits 4x4 Board

it will be an alternator or wiring problem to the alternator

the v8 turbo 700 behind the early vn/vp commodore where hydrolic with basic electrics for torque converter and speedo, the later commodore v8 boxes where full electronic. castlemain rod shop do bit and pieces for setting the early box up into applications such as yours(speedo adaptors, kick down ...

you will most likely require a transmission cooler to be fitted to the vehicle, especially if you will be towing

if money is no issue then go d4d, i have owned vehicles with 1kz and 1kd(d4d) engines and the d4d is far better in power, torque and economy.

if you read my post im refering to the alternator clutch pulley, not the clutch itself. the alternator pulley has a one way sprag clutch built into it

dont use belt grip! that stuff is a pain and puts sticky shit everywhere, fix it properly, how many k's on the clock? the alternator clutch pulley are fairly common failure and could be on its way out, the will make a squeek noise

yes we use that standard in australia

1. the biggest one 350 amp

2. min 2 b&s but if a longer run use 0 b&s

3. see 2

1. you cannot calculate it, it would have to be tested 2. it will dramatically reduce the low speed current, changing the pulley to increase speed is not advisable either as rotor speed my be too high when reving the engine high 3. the regulator can but the rectifier wont. 4. vs alternator is 90amp ...

what vehicle is it you want to do this to?

check www.lextreme.com

there is several differant diagrams depending on what car the engine came from, i take it this engine is in your 4x4 and not its original car. You say it has no spark but does it have injector pulse? it will totally change the possible cause depending on that

steel slip rings or copper slip rings does not matter, the mud gets into the brush housing and jams them up not allowing contact, the other thing it works its way into the bearing and they will fail to.

i would not recommend it, the 18r will not have the torque that the 22r will, you will find it more sluggish and using more fuel, however the engine should bolt up depending on sump config

85 neg 86 pos that is the standard, we didn't learn that in trade school for nothing, and i have not seen a normal relay sold these days without supression(this does not include solenoids)

it is incorrect 1 because there is nothing to state on the relay whether it has a diode or resistor as internal suppresion, 2 you cannot wire every 5 pin relay 86neg and 85 pos but you can wire every relay 86 pos 85 neg all relays sold these days will have some form of suppresion, and you certainly ...

mate if could be many things including crank sensor, thou your just guessing unless you take it to someone to correctly diagnois it. It could cost you more throwing parts at it til it goes that taking it to a shop

i go through thousands of them every year too! but i dont get them with diodes, my point is there out there and if you post incorrect info it could lead to people bashing there head against the wall wondering whats wrong when the fuse keeps blowing, all because 2 wire on the wrong way

a common aftermarket normally open or change over 5 pin relay can be fitted with a diode, i have seen plenty of them

short range but good alternative if you dont have a bar or do not wish to have antennas comming off the front of the car

if you read my earlier post you would have seen that i have already noted that some relays have a diode hence why i suggest doing it correctly, 85 earth side 86 pos, they dont have to be specialized relays, depends on the manufacturer whether they use a diode or resistor. i had a 5 pin relay couple ...

thats incorrect as you have the descripion for 85 and 86 wrong way round

the correct pin numbers from common bosch 5 pin type relay as no one has yet answered it %100 30 Battery positive(fused/curcuit breaker) 87 To Load, normally open(ie driving lights, thermo fan 87a To load, normally closed(not commonly used when fitting accessories) 86 coil positive(can have direct ...

check your trailer plug

what sort of vehicle is it?

you have wired the turbo timer incorrectly. when the system is in timer mode your will be loosing battery supply to the sub tank system and its logging an error code. Disconnect the battery and it will reset it but the fault will reoccur when you turn the ignition off and the timer takes over

what face that the palel is rated 200w = 16 amps but only comes with a 12amp reg sounds like something is amiss and not to standard

a maintenance free battery still has a vent to atmosphere, the bmw you speek of will have a din battery with a vent tube running out of the car. so the answer is it is not advised or legal to do so as gasses will vent in the cabin

if it is a calcium battery(most likely will be) with will require charging with a proper calcium battery charger or your battery will never recharge properly and shorten its life

use 2b&s minimum if you intend on cranking through it, if you dont use the crank function then 8b&*s

go with the earlier ea bosch alternator, later eb-d is mitsubishi. the bosch is alot more pocket friendly to repair and is 85 amp