Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Lets here your theory? We have a FTE with 233rwkw/950nm. Do both the utes and wagons.

That's the intercooled version mate. "The version with intercooler as fitted to HDJ100 station wagons has 202 hp (151 kW) at 3400 rpm with 317.1 lb·ft (430 N·m) of torque at 1200-3200 rpm with a redline reaching 4000 rpm. A lower output 122 kW non-intercooled version powers HDJ78 Troop Carrier and H ...

You can't just tune the FTE. You need to change the computer.

Exactly right milo. The amount of crap I read from the guys who have converted to stock 1HDFTE's is rediculous. They recon they have so much power it's not funny, snap axles etc etc. I deal with plenty of them, and they are fantastic engines with the POTENTIAL for great power. The same as the guys ...

Exactly.

Not having a crack at you for running one, but at the industry for implying a return to centre damper is better than a normal damper. You have been misled as are thousands of people. The castor etc should encourage your steering to return to centre, not a spring secured with a couple of bolts. A ...

I don't think anyone can compare to yanmar's. The turbo is absolutely huge and constant endless cooling from fresh water.

The temperature isn't there to begin with. Water cools far better. The WTA post intercooler intake air temperature is the same temperature (with in a few degrees) of the water leaving the intercooler. This is with a good intercooler, this is not the case with some WTA units out there. Post air temp ...

I think we are way off track now from the OP's question. But its good to crunch the data. Although it is hard to break people's views on WTA. Until they test and see for themselves. "I'm getting solid results from this intercooler. Pushing 35psi through it, I can see air temps coming out of the ...

Currently, we have a 1HDFTE 105 series producing 233rwkw and 950nm. Your WTA info may have been correct a few years ago. But I assure you, it is not in today's standards. The results I posted earlier is from an 80 series 1HDT run on a dyno at 100% load until all temperatures have stabilised at ...

A good WTA could well work, personally i'm not convinced though. A poor or average WTA could also spell the end of your engine, very easily. Go the ATA! I'll convince you ;). 98% (best) - 77% (worst) efficiency rating, 27psi with a 2.2psi pressure drop. And your right. I wouldn't ever put a Chinese ...

The temperature isn't there to begin with. Water cools far better. The WTA post intercooler intake air temperature is the same temperature (with in a few degrees) of the water leaving the intercooler. This is with a good intercooler, this is not the case with some WTA units out there. Post air temp ...

A core near twice as thick has far more restriction. The louvers design plays a part aswell. And the WTA is dumping far less heat = less stress on engines cooling system. This difference may not be as great above 80kph (maximum efficiency). But slower speeds with more load (load, slow in soft sand ...

Actually no they don't. The WTA radiator is thinner with thermals - far less air drag. Then measure the air temps from the back of both (the air temp that's entering the engine radiator). The water is only 10-15' above ambient, so the air temp from the back of that rad is only going to be the same ...

I guess it really depends on the application (engine/boost/use). Front mounts do add more stress to the engines cooling system.

Absolutely. Comes back to the old saying "you get what you pay for". If you you way up the actual data/pro's and cons its far far superior.

Just to clarify. A good WTA will kill the front mount in every way (performance wise).

Z()LTAN wrote:Congrats, you spent over 20g to get mediocre power.

I spent less than 5 to get just under that with a 1hz.

Like I said, dingaling.

I love how easy you all are to troll. Makes my day.

BULLSH#T... I guess everything you touch turns to gold?

Thats ok, theres 1 available for your 1vd

Sure, probably. Tow 4t 8000kms continuous so we can all laugh at your fuel bill and your broken crank and your cracked pistons and how I still made better time. At some point we all have to grow up and put away our toys ;) Look at you :). Talking smack about broken cranks and pistons. Maybe thats ...

Just put a chip on it mate won't need a turbo upgrade. Got a ire up here in town with a (chip I fitted and with 35" treads the owner loves doing BURNOUTS.) makes decent power on the rollers and stupid amounts if torque I beg to differ. Increase the air density via more boost/intercooling THEN use a ...

There is. And its a top of the range 1. Only 1 truck running it thus far.

I bought this, this afternoon under recommendation from people who would have an idea. Hopefullly it does the job! https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/v/71413_10151606417858248_1443058218_n.jpg?oh=f1c414d4bb486fe54e34a7fba55b07a1&oe=51F438DE&__gda__=1374982380 ...

Great looking build.

But, Just an observation and advice.

There is no way your pre IC temps should be 90 degree's c at 5 psi. Somethings not right there mate. And forget about your egt's. You want to measure your afr's. Otherwise the tune can be anywhere and you can blow it.

Buy a whole rebuilt pump from aus and ship it over.

No they are not.

= YES.

Depends what gears your using.

They really arent that hard to find, from memory.
Run out 0.1 (max)
Pinion preload 1.3 to 2 nm (new bearings)
Backlash .15 to .2 (Being a rear 4x4 diff, go the greater .2)
Carrier bearing depends if a air locker is being used or not. +3 notches.

Torque specs 110nm carrier bearing cap bolts

Easy

What model 1HZ is it? And where are you located?