Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Thank you
Steve

Were can I get one please as its driving me nuts?
Steve

team.LS wrote:thanks steve. how much did you pay for it

I think it was around the $450 mark from 4WD systems
Steve

I have one it works well! Fitted it about years ago no issues at all
Steve

To take the oil pump off you must drop the sump

It just slides off. If it won't move you may need to use levers behind it and if its rusted, heat. Use caution as there is a timing plate behind the gear.

The whole design of having the butterflys is to create a smoth idle and lower end torque.
When the engine gets higher in the revs it opens to allow maximum air flow in as straight a line to the engine as possible allowing top end power.

I know if the butterfly is held open the vehicle lacks light ...

Hi, I used the block from the 3.5 Magna with my Pajero heads. Its a tough job but all do-able. You end up with so much bottom end power!.
The crank on the 6G74 is different so you can't just fit that to your block.
If you want to call 08 83496960, I can explain what you need to do as its a long ...

THe factory auto is prone to overheating so a big cooler is a must
No canbus system is used.
Kickdown is by cable so its all easy

Hey Scott. Thanks for the advice mate. My mate and myself dont really know what we are doing but we pulled the airbox side of the turbo and can see the turbo spinning. It even spins on idle and when you try reving it up it dosnt spin any faster. My mates dad will be able to check all the other ...

Most pumps will put out around 3/4Lt every minute, the car will run on whats in the bowl. It may not run for a minute but if you time it you should be able to work it out. To not check that the restricted outlet is not being used as the main feed, would be foolish

THe fuel return is not the issue.
Do an output test of the fuel pump, start the car with the fuel line to the carbie going into a measuring bucket, time how long it takes to pump out a litre.
Check that the right pump outlet is being used, some pumps have a restrictor on the outlet that feeds the ...

Bluefreak:
It is not a hydraulic tensioner, or if it is hydraulic, it certainly has no connection to the engine oil system. It is a very powerful, short stroke spring, and if the timing belt is loose, it probably needs retensioning. I expect that this may be the cause for your overheating - the ...

Check the fuel regulator by pulling off the vacumn line while running, does fuel come out? If its stuffed fuel will be sucked into the rear cylinders
Steve

junior80 wrote:no it isn't.



is this your one?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1973-Model-406-U ... 3356d3a106

The first Mog listed on Ebay was pulled off early, the second one is not mine.

Good low K Aussie motors are between $500 to $1000 in the wreckers.
Steve

Everything l have seen so far on these vehicles that l have seen in my workshop tells me.........don't own one.
Steve

ihave a 96 nj pajero 3.5 i was driveing turned a corner and it shut down it turns over but wont fire the auto elec thinks it could be the timeing belt. its getting fuel and spark he said pleases help

The engine will sound different when you crank it will a stripped belt, cranks faster. You will ...

Sound like a fuse or fusable link, use a test light and check them all

Let the poor car die in peace and invest your energy into spelling classes

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mercedes-Benz-Unimog-404-s_W0QQitemZ120473796100QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Cars?hash=item1c0ccc3e04&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

That ones sold, but I hope to have mine ready for sale in about a week. Ex German Army 1969. Hard top front section. Please message if you are interested ...

I haven't used the old TK for years as a gasket/head leak has to be so bad before it will change colour. Try a CO exhaust tester of a LPG gas tester, both work very well at picking up small leaks. If you are coming past Adelaide, sing out.
Steve

Have had my 91 Paj in to sort this out but no success.
Belt squeels like hell till I put some lub on the ribs - all the pulleys look straight but it seems to be hard against the inside of one and towards the ouside of another. Squeeling stops once the engine heats up thoroughly (15mins driving ...

Unless your mechanic has X ray vision, he could not see this coming. Crankshaft bolts are not normally replaced after removal.

Check the engine mounts as it is vibrating at a point were torque kicks in, have a look at how close the metal plates are to each other. Plus if you change the throttle [back off] at those revs, does it alter? BTW you must undo the tailshaft to check for for a vibration issue and move the joints ...

seems to be missing, it's the type that screws into the carb block and can't be seen from outside. Have tried wreckers but they want to sell whole carby....appreciate this is probably meant to be in "wanted" but fairly urgent....cheers

If you give me a call on Monday, I should have one
Steve

08 ...

Hi, no not really.
If you use an engine flush [picked up from most auto shops], change the oil and filter. Then use Wynns Tune Up for the lifters. Failing this its rocker gear off.
Steve

The 'detergent' part is not a cleaner as such but simply holds particals in suspension. Most diesel oils are rated for pre 2000 petrols.
You could use it full time.
Steve

You need special pullers to get it off, its easier to throw it, replace with a new unit and regass
Steve

yeah the sound goes when you push clutch in a bit that is why i was thinking it was the thrust bearing

You might find that the clutch fork is rattling, if the pressure plate fingers are uneven and the fork pivot is dry - you get a rattle. You may have to pull it out, try first to lube the bearing ...