Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Put a carby on it. That way you only need to wire the starter motor and alternator. Works for me.

Give Beaudesert exhausts a call. They do a good system that gives a good note.

15 inch rims will drag on the rear calipers

Your rotors may have a lip on the edge of them stopping the pads from sliding in. If so get them machined or be a little rough and take the lip off gently with a grinder

You should only need to run your turbo timer for 1 minute, tops. That's enough time for the turbo to slow/cool down. Any longer is just a waste of fuel.

Thanks alot fellas

Hi all,
I've heard it is possible to fit AU twin thermos to a 80 series radiator. Is this correct, if so how much work involved.
Any info appreciated. Thanks

BFG muddies are good on road. I have 40000 km's on mine (mostly on road) and only 3/4 to 1/2 worn. Sweeet

Spend a hundred bucks or so and get them powder coated, tough and durable. Or wire brush and a tin of spray paint.

Use Diesel Australia

look at the crankshaft position sensor. It sends signals to the ecu for injector pulse and spark timing.

The 2.8's are under powered and have a tendancy to crack cylinder heads and you don't even have to over heat them. So be wary of investing your hard earned on one. 3.0's after 2001 are ok if not a little heavy on the juice. If you can afford one get a 4.2 turbo and put a 3 inch exhuast and boost ...

shouldn't be a problem, may be noisy for a bit as the lifters might have bleed down. But as long as it has oil pressure it'll be sweet.

Maybe try a universal cv boot and cut it down to size

I think it's castrol Transmax M or equivilent.
VMX 80 i s fine for the transfer.
Hope it helps.

Definitley clutch shudder

Engine mount or gear box mount. Get under there with a big screw driver or pry bar and try and move it around. It will be pretty obvious if it's broken.

Oh sorry, you can buy a valve spring compressor from most trade tool shops. It sort of looks like a small bearing puller, but with a ring at the top instead of a point, two hooks go on the spring and you wind it down until you can dig out the collets. Have'nt got a picture though.

Hi,

Obvious things first, you will have to buy a flywheel , and clutch kit. Cross member and bell housings are the same I'm sure.

The fun starts when you have to install the pedal box and hydraulic clutch system. Don't know if there is a cut out for the clutch master cylinder, if not you have to ...

On a 6g72 if you take the spark plugs out and wind the motor over until the piston is at tdc, you can remove the collets and valve spring and the valve will rest on the piston without falling all the way in. Not entirely sure about 6g74. Hope this helps in some way

Possibly the penrite is thicker than the penzoil. Use the same penzoil and the problem should stop.

Try a coil rear end $$$$$$$$$

Get yourself a test light and see if power is getting to the wiper motor, if so the motor is stuffed, if not you can trace it back easily

Check your diff mounts.

Have you considered a glow plug timer, similar to a turbo timer but switches the glow plugs on and off a set amount of times, fairly cheap and could solve your problem. Also use genuine glow plugs as non genuine (bosch) plugs will burn out quickly

No engine or management system that I have heard of uses a co2 sensor as co2 is a major component of exhaust gases. the o2 sensor is used to adjust fuel delivery to keep emissions at a constant. So I would guess that your mechanic is calling the o2 sensor a co2 sensor ????

Not a sensor in the diff but on the transfer, check for sand/dirt in the plugs on top of the t/case.

Definitly make sure you are starring it on petrol, lpg is vapour not liquid, meaning it is harder to burn.

The magna 3.5 has higher compression too

The 3.2 DiD was also in the later model NM's about '03 early '04. In my opinion the diesel's go harder than the 3.5 v6

G'day. you may find that the noise may not be the lifters. The DOHC 3.5's have a variable secondary butterfly setup. If u take the engine cover off you will see a vacuum diaphram on the front of the manifold, disconnect the vacuum line and see if the noise stops. If it does the push rod from the ...