Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all On recommendation from a someone in the spare parts industry I ordered a set of Iridium Spark plugs BK6EIX for my 2001 Challenger, I just received them today and they are BKR6EIX the "R" I assume is for resister, should I fit these or send them back for non resister plugs. Also at the same ...

Hi all
I need to replace the plug tubes oil seals that live under the tappet covers.
It looks straight forward but has anyone done this job and is there anything to watch out for, what type of gasket goo do I need (if any) for the manifold gasket(s).
Any tip or tricks appreciated.

Casey

Hey Hudson, thanks for that. The Challenger has a different mast I just found out: 7 Section stainless steel mast Extends to 95cm Retracted length 20cm Mast diameter 10mm Sleeve diameter 11mm Sleeve length 60mm Bush diameter 11mm Mitsubishi part number: MR318477 Couldn't find a listing for non ...

Hi All Just finished replacing the antenna mast on my 01 Challenger and though I would share how I did it. Note: I could not find an after market listing so went genuine. 7 Section stainless steel mast Extends to 95cm Retracted length 20cm Mast diameter 10mm Sleeve diameter 11mm Sleeve length 60mm ...

Hi all My 2001 Challenger's antenna has finally karked it. Has anyone fitted an insert and how easy is it to do and where do I get one, a quick look seems like the LHF inner guard cover and flare has to come off to get to it, would like to stick to the auto up/down power one as getting to old and ...

Put a straight edge on the mating edges of the manifold and heads to check that they are flat, they may need a surface grind. If you are confident that the gasket is fitting good and you used a sealant (hylomar) then there may be some warping.

Thanks All.

lay80n PM sent.

Hi all Anyone know the towing capacity of a 92 Vit 1600 injected 4 door. I would like to tow a boat/trailer that weighs 700Kg, would this need to be braked?, the towbar fitted at the moment is rated at 1000KG and a tounge weight of 70KG, I can get a heavy duty bar if necessary. I estimate the ball ...

The location you can get from the Rover head gasket, for the rest contact Darren at: McNaughton Engine Reconditioning at Cardiff NSW. Ph: 0249501640 He did mine several years ago and knows all there is to know about P76 engines, he builds hill climb race engines out of them. Just in case you are ...

Be keen to know me self, I do a LOT of K's.

Back in the early eighty's 1 litre / 1000Klmtr's was acceptable use, not sure what it is these days. The oil in the air filter and blue smoke on acceleration is an indication that the rings are worn. The oil in the air filter will be from the engine breather probably due to excesive sump pressure ...

OK seems you have eliminated spark, compression and being a carby engine unlikely to be fuel directly associated with it. Some sugestions: Timing, sometimes pully can slip, physically rotate dizzy and see it clears up. Dwell, (duration of points closed) use a dwell meter to set other than setting ...

Seems you have eliminated the plug and the lead. Do a wet and dry compression test next and see what you come up with. Do a dry test first and if the compression is OK skip the wet test. In case you don't know what a wet test is: put a few squirts of engine oil into the cylinder and redo the ...

Mud 4b's got it right, if the uni's are fitted correctly this should fix your problem. What I do is use a centre pop to permanently mark the alignment at thier mateing points, you don't have to bash a deep hole just a heavy tap will give you a mark and not damage anything. Also check that the uni's ...

Just a quick update. Had a custom made 2" sports sytem fitted and left the original cat in place. I cannot believe the difference, the engine (which is new by the way) is sooo much smoother, revs a lot easier, and a very noticeable increase in performance, well worth the $250, highly recommend it ...

As long as there is no noise associated with it I wouldn't be to concerned. Sounds like it is just the initial load required to spin up the gearbox main shaft, (hence the 200 rpm drop) and once spinning recovers by 100 rev's.
Can't imagine it would take much to slow a 1.3.

All working: Thanks to Huggy :) Run a wire from the high beam wire at headlight plug to the toggle switch, then from switch (2 pin) to pin 86 on relay, one from the low beam wire on the other side of headlight plug to the relay pin 85, power to pin 30 and pin 87 to driving lights. I first used a 3 ...

Hi All Fitting some driving lights to my 92 Vit and wired in the usual way via the high beam and it didn't work, well it worked but it worked anytime I hit the switch not just when on high beam. So I did a search here and found diahgrams of both Neg and Pos switched systems. Here's the thread: http ...

Thanks everyone.

Just buy a 2" universal hi flow cat converter

Sound like a good idea, better flow, keeps me legal and better for the environment.
Where does one get one and how much are they. Would the local muffler shop carry them.

Give Darren at Mcnaughton Engine recon a ring on 02 49501640
He's in the Newcastle NSW area and builds P76 hill climb engines, he should be able to set you right.

Hi All Just found the exhaust manifold on my 92 Vit G16B cracked so fitted a set of extractors. Question is: can the catylictic (spelling?) convertor be removed. I would like to fit a 2" system and was wondering wether to leave the convertor or not. I realise it can't be removed legally but will it ...

Well I had one, a 98 TD4 manual and the engine blew in a big way on the Newcastle to Sydney freeway. Cruisin along and it sped up by itself and started to belch out tons of smoke, pulled to the side and the engine was on full revs and couldn't be turned off, had to stall it. Sat there for a few ...

General rule of thumb:
Don't labor the engine and don't over rev it. Long runs at varying speeds (rev's).

Should i be starting at the gearbox and working forward,

Most definately, bolt the engine up to the gearbox and have it sitting where it should be, then set engine mounts, this will assure everything stays aligned.

Should i be starting at the gearbox and working forward,

Most definately, bolt the engine up to the box and have the box sitting where it should be, then set engine mounts, this will assure everything stays aligned.

Hmm, "water disappearing" is not a good sign, Is there milky oil on the filler cap. Make sure you don't have a water leak somewhere that could account for the water loss before doing anything. One check you could do is to warm the engine up with the radiator cap off, or carefully remove it when hot ...

cracks in the block? is this common for the G16B Don't be frightened off a G16B because of this as it seems that this is the exception, and not the rule, but you need to be aware of it being a potential problem, they are still a great engine and seem to go forever with or without knocks and rattles ...

Ive spied a 1.6efi that is VERY tempting, Im off to have a look see at it this weekend...any tell tail signs I should be aware of? Not much if it still assembled. If you can pull the sump off you would have a better chance at it's condition. Look for fret marks on the crankshaft where the pully ...

Thanks cloughy, I'll remember that in the future.
Cheers