Outer Limits 4x4 Board

bogged wrote: plumber wrote: , that is the beauty of being an INDIVIDUAL!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQqq3e03EBQ we are all individuals.... Im not.. thats exactly right he has to work it out for himself, that if he is happy with his truck riding like that, then that is his decision, but as ...

that is exactly right simo, it was a JOKE pajero boy people get so worked up on this forum, for farks sake i agree in a way, u dont need all that lift in most situations, but lets admit it, all of us (well ok most) here are enthusiasts in the sport, so we all modify our trucks to suit what we want ...

haha, i wouldnt brag about driving an echo dude, dont u feel so vunerable on the road?

i just had a similar problem
my clutch master cylinder shat itself, therefore when trying 2 select reverse with no syncromesh made it hard, and 1st was a bitch,

we bled it, and it was still shite, so was a new master cylinder and adjust the pedal, and so far so good,

plumber wrote: u should trade your patrol in on a standard commodore nutter gq u old . why would I? I got a video of a guy from here winching his GQ up 3 sisters in gembrook with 6 inch springs, 2 inch body lift, 37 swampers....and then me drivin it on bfg all terrains with 6mm tread left lol ...

u should trade your patrol in on a standard commodore nutter gq u old Dudelux

thanx ozrunner that s what i meant, i know the cvs r disconnected from the diff, but i am having issues with the solenoids under the bonnet i think, if i dont swap the hoses over, it will disengage after a short time, one solenoid mustn't open fully, and isnt allowing enough vacuum flow 2 hold the ...

ive got a 94 sr5 with shitty ifs and those annoying auto lock hubs, a mate of mine told me that if i was to fit manual locking hubs and disconnect the electrical to the solenoid on the front diff, the cvs would stay engaged in the diff, and all i would do 2 engage 4wd is lock hubs and push the ...

Just picked up a 94 xtra cab sr5 for a fair price, needs a little work the vacuum operated solenoids (well i thought it was) that lock and unlock the hubs are stuffed and the button on the transfer lever is not operative, whilst out at my mates place this arvo, i swapped the hoses over from each ...

all working, i'm not an auto elec, but i worked it out, thanks boys

thanx guys, i will cut into the negative wire on the high beam lamp, and see what happens, cheers

Hey, Tried wiring up my IPF's to my 80 the other night, i have since discovered they are a negative switched system, so where u would normally splice your wire into your high beam contact, it gives dim, dull light, and when spliced into the high beam light itself, is not legal, as it does not switch ...

had my auto 95 model for bout 2 mths now,
done 120 000kms, gets around 450-500kms off main tank, depending on how heavy your right foot is, highway seems to be much better, stilll standard at moment