Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ive had a few and they have always stopped working eventually, the little controller box gets too hot. Redarc updated the controller but still no go. Im now using ABR sidewinder isolators without a problem.

How do you tell if its cracked before taking the thing apart? My cruiser has some noises coming from around there and people suspect its the plate.

Z()LTAN wrote:

udm wrote:well that was silly of me, i meant is the rear diff centre the same? Straight swap?

Yes

cool, thanks mate.

well that was silly of me, i meant is the rear diff centre the same? Straight swap?

Hi guys, simple question, as per title... Are the rear diffs off an 80series and 1997 75series troopy the same? I tried searching but too many weird threads come up.

And now watch you dont strip the oil pump screws haha

I would normally hammer a socket on to it.

Green80 wrote:Don't know, but i want to know why some have it in such a stupid position for a 4WD & others are up high next to the battery well out of harms way?

Toyota would be the only one with an answer to that, if. Pre 93=engine bay, post 93=behind bumper

Slee in the states sells an AC dryer guard that fits the ARB bar, but you have to drill 3 new holes on the bar itself. Does anyone know of any other guards available? This is Slee's option. Seems to work, but i dont want to drill the bar. http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/images/skidplates/ac_skid ...

What did you do up at 27ftlbs? The spool goes on a lot tighter than that. thats what it said in the manual i thort it felt tighter to get off because i was undoing it with a rattle gun and it took a fir bit to get them undone wot torque do you reakon cus i do think there is something not quiet ...

dave89 wrote:yea i put it in my self the cdl light isnt coming up on the dash and everything went back in in the same way they came out i did everythign up to the correct torque using a torque wrench i think it was 27 ftlb.

What did you do up at 27ftlbs? The spool goes on a lot tighter than that.

Still havent put the arms in Hopefully the next wkend is as good as this one so i can get stuck into again.

got the bitch of a thing going , put some fuel in and it started, also noticed that the fuel pump is working all the time, even when on gas so does all this mean you have no chance in hell to get it going with an empty fuel tank

howsie wrote:Hmm my lpg idles up when cold. How olds the gas system. Mine was put in in 97

The only thing i have seen dates is the gas bottle, 1999.

Yeah, im getting some fuel tomorrow to see what happens. I dont think mine starts on petrol though, petrol cold start will bring idle up, while lpg wont idle up when cold.

Yeah, so i have replaced the main petrol tank and now the thing wont start, empty tank obviously, but it wont start on lpg either. Anybody got any thoughts before i get back to it tomorrow? I also did the diff breathers, but i would hope i havent stuffed anything in the engine bay, and changed ...

Thought you adjusted the rotation of the housing so the pinion flange is exactly the same angle as the output flange on the transfer :? Well, that makes big sense i guess, especially if you got drivetrain noises and shit. But i got no noises and only bought the arms to see if it would pull the ...

I got some adjustable top arms for the back of the 80, and cant seem to remember what to set them at. Was it something along the lines of 10 to 15 mm shorter than standard links?

Hoping that with shorter links the tyres wont rub the mudflaps as bad?

Info if needed: 36" et2 on 4" lift.

Rear shaft vibs should disappear after you have put a spacer (around 10mm) between the gearbox crossmember and chassis.

Thanks guys. one of these days, engine cold, i will spray some water onto it and see if anything stops it.

Cranky, i have actually sealed those 2 holes on the dizzy when i rebuilt the engine. I wonder if there would be any condensation buildup with it fully sealed?

jdt80s wrote:leaking injector pump from throttle shaft

and the question?

cookiesmonsta wrote:

udm wrote:He will be fine, they all have the inspection hole on the floor.

90 model dx doesn't!!!!

Shit of a job that would be then. That one must have been the prototype body I had a 1990 GXL and it had both cutouts on the floor

1FZ and water, they say sometimes get along and sometimes dont.

So for testing purposes, (this is my 1st 1fz), i was wondering how much water do you have to pour onto the engine (leads, dizzy) to find it will fail (hopefully not) a water crossing/mud hole?

ps. did that make any sense?

Nice video mate, i liked the tips through it, like aligning the nut with the groove, its gonna make it a lot easier next time i need to find that bloody hole where the little lock screws go lol. I wonder if 80series have these grooves, i have never noticed them.

Do you remember what was the last thing you did to it before the noises started? But without even seeing it, im putting my money on front driveshaft making noises (caused by lift)

He will be fine, they all have the inspection hole on the floor.

You forgot to mention in the 1st post it was stuck half way. That happens when the tank baffles are loose.

TheBigBoy wrote:Im on my second set of efs extreme for 5" lift. They are alright. But there is better out there. Mine only last about 2 years before they are screwed.

Screwed in which way?

I just got some for my 80, hopefully have them fitted sometime this decade lol

I've had tough dogs for a while, they work fine, but have replaced some already (lucky enough still under warranty), and have now being convinced and bought efs extreme shocks this time. Just need to fit them in the next couple months and see how they go. Have heard efs are good but want 750 mm ...

I've had tough dogs for a while, they work fine, but have replaced some already (lucky enough still under warranty), and have now being convinced and bought efs extreme shocks this time. Just need to fit them in the next couple months and see how they go.