Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Chain drive from 151f has electronic speedo as well where as gear drive from g52 is mechanical.

Depending on wire you're talking about you'll need to hook it up if it's the ADD style transfer case as there's a 12V actuator that needs power to engage 4WD. If the donor transfer came from a vehicle ...

It's a chain driven transfer case operated via a 12V solenoid. The front differential has a collar that locks the passenger axle in and out when you press the button on the side of the stubby lever which is shifted via a vacuum pump located in the engine bay which is where you're probably getting ...

I'm getting 14L/100km with a mix of freeway and city driving on 32s. Always driven between 2000-3000rpm.

The V6 cluster will read but only 66% of actual rpm (6 pulse per rev from 3vze vs 4 pulse per rev in 1uz).

The wire for 1uz tacho pulse is the centre wire on the ignitor with 5 wires (the other ignitor has 4).

You need the 4cyl dash cluster or parts of it.

I pulled the shifter off a g52 once and found the pins the shifter ball locates itself with to be moving around the gear stick housing where they are press mounted. Solution was to grind the head off the pin and knock them out. Then tap the housing (it's alloy cast) and replace with appropriate ...

Try seeing the guy? section 10/11

35's have been previously been engineered on 80'series cruisers, Sounds like a lot are running scared and don't want the hard work.

Touchy subject


I'm hoping after a while under the new system some of what you can and can't do regarding these rules will become ...

These days you can't engineer a lux/4runner with 33's in NSW. Retrospective engineering certificates appear to be worth their weight in gold according to the new rules.

Please show me these rules.

Every site i have been on and even the political minister that handles RMS did say, "The rules are ...

These days you can't engineer a lux/4runner with 33's in NSW. Retrospective engineering certificates appear to be worth their weight in gold according to the new rules.

I read about this problem the other day. There's been a recall in Europe but not here. Seems to be a potentially engine killing defect.

Need to know your location to recommend a workshop.

The 4runner and surf ones are the most popular I've found. Just make sure you get a manual one!

They're a couple of dollars each if ones on the way out chances are others will be too. Just do them all.

surfsasyo wrote:

evanstaniland wrote:Rb25 is for commodores you want more cylinders in a pootrol

yeah, i'd want more torque. not have to ride the clutch all the time... but rb25 fully worked pulls a pootroll damn well

rb25det perhaps but the non turbo version is best left to the wannabe ricer p platers.

Everything engineering in NSW has changed, There is the VSCCS system which replaced the old engineering system. The engineer I am consulting with and every other I have read about will only certify under the new schemes rules. In short you are all overestimating how much your vehicle can be modified ...

One wire would give 12v on ignition only. That narrows it down to 2 at least.

Sorry mate can't help you there. Wiring diagram would be the go.

The 2.8L's tacho pickup comes off the side of the injector pump, same plug as the fuel cut off wiring. I believe the only way to get around this is to get a petrol cluster from the same model or just run without a tacho (NSW you don't need one).

Hope this helps.

I ran a drivetrain lift on my 96 hilux. I ran engine lift blocks (1.5") as Snake Racing make them for a little over $100 (can't remember exactly how much) and coupled it with gearbox spacers ontop of the factory crossmember. Circumstances forced the sale of that lux before a custom crossmember could ...

I have a dyno sheet here stating 190hp on the old engine. I feel bad but then I realise dynos are not really worth much in the real world.

I am mates with a guy who went to half a dozen different dynos with his VL Calais turbo and the variation was no shit 50hp atw. Shows how much variation you ...

I'd be chasing up any vacuum leaks you might have before looking at the sensors.
Clogged/stuck injectors from small amount of e10 is entirely possible but unlikely given the problem happened before it really depends on how it launches/when they were last serviced and dismissing the intake leak, ie ...

wms to wms for front of 80 series is 63" according to ih8mud.

actually maybe a voltage regulator? Either way this is my last guess.

looks like a starter relay but I'm not sure.

Aren't these an over head cam? Check your valve clearances/adjust your valve clearances.

The later model V6 lux any day of the week mate. Unless you intend to modify the diesel hilux the later model lux will beat it off road too in stock form or close to it. The only thing going for the diesel lux is reliability and strength (even that's debatable given the age difference). Driveability ...

Hi mate you talking to petrol or diesel motor?

I've done one on the 2.8L diesel and it was relatively straight forward. From memory it was far easier to work on if you pull the radiator, being 4 bolts it's no drama to pull out. You can replace the water pump if you want but if you've had good ...

I imagine you'd rotate the ring gear on the flywheel not rotate the flywheel itself.

Auto hubs you mean the IFS ADD system?

Start by jacking the car up in 2wd. Lock the hubs and rotate drivers wheel, front CV should turn as should front drive shaft. Leave in 2wd and rotate passenger wheel, front CV should rotate, front driveshaft should not. If either CV does not rotate when the ...

And does the 2.4 pump fit as I have access to one of them

At a guess they are the same pump, and am pretty sure they bolt up. Someone here should confirm this.




With the seal kit you have better seals than oem which are resistant to the effects of low sulphur diesel so the problem shouldn't ...

Hey mate I'm not 100% on this but it would rise over the cap when the thermostat is closed and revving the engine thanks to a backlog of pressure through the system but I've never done that to test the water pump.

Easiest way to test is to squeeze the upper radiator hose at operating temp and rev ...

Bottom will naturally be cooler than the top, but shouldn't be stone cold. Are you getting pressurisation in the cooling system? You could always remove the thermostat then remove the top hose and add a garden hose feed to the radiator to feed the engine to see if it's pumping water.