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ARB air locker vs. Lockrite lokka
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
or get hold of a factory rear electric locker. I picked one up for $500 complete housing with diff and axels. Wired it up and had the motor rewound and works great, never given me a problem so far. The only downside is the teeth are quite large (they won't break though) but can take a little to get them to mesh. This way I don't have to worry about air lines and compressors etc.
I had a welded front diff in my fj55 with no power steering, with the tyres down to 12psi had to get out and unlock a hub if i ever wanted to turn a corner. ( but off road smiles all the way ).
also had a lockright in the rear diff and was not to bad on the blacktop mainly roundabouts, until it gets very hot and then you just hear stones hitting the wheelarch. One day had a tyre on the back blow out and that killed the lockright ( 110 kms) .
ps anybody want any lockright bits (well whats left of one)
Rick
also had a lockright in the rear diff and was not to bad on the blacktop mainly roundabouts, until it gets very hot and then you just hear stones hitting the wheelarch. One day had a tyre on the back blow out and that killed the lockright ( 110 kms) .
ps anybody want any lockright bits (well whats left of one)
Rick
i was currently running a lock rite in the front and a shimmed lsd in the rear, This went really well but when i broke the 2nd cv i decided to put the lockrite in the rear and put an airlokker in the front.
I bought a airlokker off here for $900 installed in a 4.88 reco diff with compressor and everything. You have to be quick if something comes up like this.
I personally love the lockrite in the rear (not in the front) its there all the time, engauges and disengauges as it needs to and all i need to worry bout is the front airlokker. Definately worth the money for the rear, if ste up properly the lockrite are good but on the road you will get the occasional bang or clunk...
I am a apprentice as well thats why i went for the lockrite first but now i have both i think they are both awsome... up to you $500 or $1700
My 2cents
I bought a airlokker off here for $900 installed in a 4.88 reco diff with compressor and everything. You have to be quick if something comes up like this.
I personally love the lockrite in the rear (not in the front) its there all the time, engauges and disengauges as it needs to and all i need to worry bout is the front airlokker. Definately worth the money for the rear, if ste up properly the lockrite are good but on the road you will get the occasional bang or clunk...
I am a apprentice as well thats why i went for the lockrite first but now i have both i think they are both awsome... up to you $500 or $1700
My 2cents
3.0L turbo diesel, 4" lift, bud's front housing, track assasin cv's, air lokker front + Rear, beadlock'd 37 stickies, high steer, 15.5" travel ranchos, high pinion diff and coils on the rear
I think you'll find you will break more cv's with air locker in the front the longfields are the only way you can stop it a mate of mine has done a short side axle with lockrite and 27 spline longs so they still lock up good. lockrites are supposed to stop cv breakage but toyota cv's are piss weak and yeah if your not in a rush to get a air locker just watch on here and trading post has some good buy's in it to. i'm 19 also only a 2nd year shit kicker so i know how it keeps you poorbrad 93hilux wrote:i was currently running a lock rite in the front and a shimmed lsd in the rear, This went really well but when i broke the 2nd cv i decided to put the lockrite in the rear and put an airlokker in the front.
I bought a airlokker off here for $900 installed in a 4.88 reco diff with compressor and everything. You have to be quick if something comes up like this.
I personally love the lockrite in the rear (not in the front) its there all the time, engauges and disengauges as it needs to and all i need to worry bout is the front airlokker. Definately worth the money for the rear, if ste up properly the lockrite are good but on the road you will get the occasional bang or clunk...
I am a apprentice as well thats why i went for the lockrite first but now i have both i think they are both awsome... up to you $500 or $1700
My 2cents
plenty of parts on the bench
yeah being poor sux the big one but its soo much fun when you get new toys ( or new parts for your toy)
i will be putting an air locker in mine once the engine is sorted...
then when i bust a cv i will replace them with longfields... anyone know a price on a set of longfields???
how long would the standard cv's last???
i will be putting an air locker in mine once the engine is sorted...
then when i bust a cv i will replace them with longfields... anyone know a price on a set of longfields???
how long would the standard cv's last???
Mine set me around 650-700 depending on aust dollar to us dollar and i can't remeber that well best bet call them at 8 or so in the morning here and it's late arvo over there
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/ the number is on there you have to add something to start it's in the white pages
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/ the number is on there you have to add something to start it's in the white pages
plenty of parts on the bench
Nah just use the stock toyota one's saves a bit on postage. My mate was really giving it to it to break a axle, One wheel was jammed between rocks running 35's lockrite dual cases and turbo 2.8 just fed it to it till it drove out or broke and he ended up breaking short side axle. I wasn't there but rover1 and himself reckons it went off with one hell of a bang.dybes wrote:so you bought axles with the longfields ???
lifetime warranty sounds alright!!!
cheers
To refit the longs to the axle go to a shop that does alot of work/repairs to cv's and get 2 of the internal snap rings as your's will break when removing old cv off the axle they cos me a buck or 2 each
plenty of parts on the bench
No they are not marketed in Australia at all. Im not aware of any dealer in Aus. They work on exactly the same principal as the Lockright.dybes wrote:i have googled it but can only seem to find torque master as a supplier of "aussie lockers" in america cant realy find anything else
i guess they are a different name here... i hall keep looking
cheers
I have front and rear Lockright Powertrax Noslip lockers in my Troopy. These are slightly more expensive than the standard Lockrights but well worth the extra in the smoother operation. With the rear if you didn't know it was fitted you can't tell it's there till you need it in the bush, onroad there is no difference driving it than with a good LSD. In the front there is a slightly stiffer feeling to the steering when in 4wd but not much. The best thing with these is when they need to disengage for tight turns they do, unlike an air locker which is locked 100%.
93 1HZ Troopy Double Locked, Lifted and Gassed with NO Benefits by D-GAS
D-GAS= Dont - Give A Shit
D-GAS= Dont - Give A Shit
HÃ there. I've run tween Lock rights in my old 60 landcruiser & they work well but heres what I fine.
As I descending down a decente if its got a slite of camber you entend to slide side ways as the diffs do not fully disengaged & alow the wheels to turn freely like those air lockers do.
Also I find you have to touch the brake or throtle to off set the torqe to the Lock Rights when you need to turn as you descending down any hill.
On the open road I find that the front left hand tyre entends to wheir out on the outer sholder a bit. This been because you push into roundabouts & if you go into one in to highter gear at a slow speed you may find your face in the winscreen.
I found to push the cluch in just a little bit so the torqe comes of the locker when you turn left or right on the bitchumen this giving you a nice smover flow around the turn.
I've only ever had two diff failures. One been bearings & the other been a center pin.
The bearing failure was caused by when the both rear wheels were locked up soled & the Lock Rites disengaged bouth sides at once & making a ringing sound. This putting to much loud on the bearings.
What happen the bearings locking tabs bent & relest the bearings retaners alowing them to float around a bit.
The brocken center pin that came with the lockers as a extra just broke into three pieces one day when driving out my drive way.
Although I find these little things to be anoing some time it's good to bee able to just drive.
I hope this will ansered your question.
.
As I descending down a decente if its got a slite of camber you entend to slide side ways as the diffs do not fully disengaged & alow the wheels to turn freely like those air lockers do.
Also I find you have to touch the brake or throtle to off set the torqe to the Lock Rights when you need to turn as you descending down any hill.
On the open road I find that the front left hand tyre entends to wheir out on the outer sholder a bit. This been because you push into roundabouts & if you go into one in to highter gear at a slow speed you may find your face in the winscreen.
I found to push the cluch in just a little bit so the torqe comes of the locker when you turn left or right on the bitchumen this giving you a nice smover flow around the turn.
I've only ever had two diff failures. One been bearings & the other been a center pin.
The bearing failure was caused by when the both rear wheels were locked up soled & the Lock Rites disengaged bouth sides at once & making a ringing sound. This putting to much loud on the bearings.
What happen the bearings locking tabs bent & relest the bearings retaners alowing them to float around a bit.
The brocken center pin that came with the lockers as a extra just broke into three pieces one day when driving out my drive way.
Although I find these little things to be anoing some time it's good to bee able to just drive.
I hope this will ansered your question.
.
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