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Do you mean has anyyone broke a transfer mount or diffs?
I run lux diffs in a lwb and dont have a prob with vibrations. For transfer mounts I braced both arms.For rubber mount on the passenger side I got a standard mount and cut the studs off. Then I drilled a hole all the way through and run a bolt through it. I used the rubber bush and washers of the pin end of a shock top and bottom that way it is still dampened in forward and reverse. It hasnt broken since.
Nik
MART wrote:Lay80n,what ways do you use to stop tailshaft vibration,Cheers Paul.
CV joints instead of Uni's should stop the vibration as they dont have the acceleration/deceleration phaseing like uni's do. Slight angle on the rear (i.e. so the uni has to work at an angle, not point along drive shaft) should minismise vibes them if you are uni's. Running a Double cardon is not the best idea, as the 2 uni's in the DC cancel each others phasing out, but the rear uni still has to opperate at an angle and will cause vibes. How bad does it Vibrate? Been in a few zooks with lux diffs and the vibes were not too bad. Depends on how they were set-up.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Nik
Yeah thought the trans case mounts might cop a floggin, but also wondered what anyone had broken when they run lux diffs. Your way of doing the mounts seems to make sense. I will look at that Thanks.
What Ratio's does anyone run with lux diffs? Im Thinkin the 4.8 would be fine with the 1L trans case, running 33 tyers.
Layn80
I was tryin to avoid 60's diffs because I thought that was just gettin too heavy and wide for what I need.
Mooney Yee Haa
Go Off like a Frog in a SOCK!
I didnt do it! - Bart
Im running that ratio with a series one rockhopper the same high range as one litre case and thirty threes. It does about four thousand rpm at ninety to one hundred kph. Bit high on road but not low enough off road.
Nik
Have to write numbers as the numbers on keyboard dont work
NIK wrote:Im running that ratio with a series one rockhopper the same high range as one litre case and thirty threes. It does about four thousand rpm at ninety to one hundred kph. Bit high on road but not low enough off road.
Nik
Have to write numbers as the numbers on keyboard dont work
Roctoy Designfab wrote:in answer to your orignal post, yes it is possible to use a bundeera rear diff, although they are pretty hard to come by.
Chris
Im using a bundy rear and hilux front. I was orginally going to use 80series diffs but the combo I have now worked out a fair bit cheaper. Plus Im linking and coiling it. Detroit in the rear and air locker in the front. Got both diffs (seperately) and lockers (seperately) and it worked out way under a grand (uninstalled of course) for twin locked diffs. The 80s diffs cost over a grand alone uninstalled and unlocked.
EDIT: Bundy's use the same centres as a hilux so spares are readily available too
Red zook I have a lap top and there is no NUM LOCK or seacond set of numbers. It will probly work again tommorrow if its in the mood, come to think of it maybe the missus has had an influence on it
Nik
CV joints instead of Uni's should stop the vibration as they dont have the acceleration/deceleration phaseing like uni's do. Slight angle on the rear (i.e. so the uni has to work at an angle, not point along drive shaft) should minismise vibes them if you are uni's. Running a Double cardon is not the best idea, as the 2 uni's in the DC cancel each others phasing out, but the rear uni still has to opperate at an angle and will cause vibes. How bad does it Vibrate? Been in a few zooks with lux diffs and the vibes were not too bad. Depends on how they were set-up.
Layto....[/quote]
when you say the vibrations were ok, was that at low speed 4wd or open road at 100k. read a few places that strongly recommend not to use lux diffs if vehicle to be driven on road.
84 d/cab hilux ...... a work in progress.
just not much progress at the moment !?!
darkor wrote:CV joints instead of Uni's should stop the vibration as they dont have the acceleration/deceleration phaseing like uni's do. Slight angle on the rear (i.e. so the uni has to work at an angle, not point along drive shaft) should minismise vibes them if you are uni's. Running a Double cardon is not the best idea, as the 2 uni's in the DC cancel each others phasing out, but the rear uni still has to opperate at an angle and will cause vibes. How bad does it Vibrate? Been in a few zooks with lux diffs and the vibes were not too bad. Depends on how they were set-up.
Layto....
when you say the vibrations were ok, was that at low speed 4wd or open road at 100k. read a few places that strongly recommend not to use lux diffs if vehicle to be driven on road.[/quote]
Know of a few people that daily drive their lux diffed zooks, and have driven to QLD from newy etc fine. Its very hard to define how bad a vibe is, as everyone's opinion is different.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Yes Remydog Iwould like it a bit higher on road and a bit lower off road. But it depends what you have planned. I dont drive my zook daily so its livable plus I cant justify the dollars to fix it. Ive had my series one since before the others were around so I had no choice.
Nik
Nottie on this site has mentioned 60 sereis diffs for $500 a set, are these the same width as the bundy diffs just leaf instead of coil? Could be worth giving him a PM if you're chasing diffs for the right price.
just cruizin' wrote:Nottie on this site has mentioned 60 sereis diffs for $500 a set, are these the same width as the bundy diffs just leaf instead of coil? Could be worth giving him a PM if you're chasing diffs for the right price.
I think they are wider, though thats not necessarily a bad thing. Zook60 had 60s diffs under his zook and they worked very well. Coiled and linked too
40 series diffs are the same width as hilux and share the same front axles and swivel hub asembly some rears are full floaters too.
I can't see why a little extra weight and about 1/2 an inch less clearance matters when the centre is much stronger and their cheap too.
