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CWP for Disco 1
Moderator: Micka
CWP for Disco 1
Anybody know the best option for CWP for my disco 1 Im not talking ratio. Who has the best price option available. Also am I correct in assuming you only have to do one !! Front or rear !!
Running 35" simex centrepeeds
Running 35" simex centrepeeds
Disco Stew Says Disco 1 Is Cool EEEEH !!
Is that an informed opinion, or just what you have heard. I was wondering if the axles are breaking because of people who put 35's on usually drive like there truck like it is invinceable.
As we all know there are people who have experience 4wding and those who are just tools.
I remember talking to a mechanic who was driving in the Cape with a Guy who was driving a 2006 model defender which we all have heard the stories about them breaking these type of components with standard wheels. Anyway the mechanic (Diesel) Said the breakages were caused by his driving technique and nothing else. His 4wding expierince was poor and basically useing a bootfull of clutch in a Low range situation shows bad skills.
Is there anyboody out there who runs 35's who really knows how to 4wd. Who has broken lets say an axle 4wding it can be a little bit extreme but not trying to climb a rock face that needed 30 attempts and at the end of the day you had to winch up anyway.
In short broken an axle doing normal 4wding.
Thanks for anybody who can help
As we all know there are people who have experience 4wding and those who are just tools.
I remember talking to a mechanic who was driving in the Cape with a Guy who was driving a 2006 model defender which we all have heard the stories about them breaking these type of components with standard wheels. Anyway the mechanic (Diesel) Said the breakages were caused by his driving technique and nothing else. His 4wding expierince was poor and basically useing a bootfull of clutch in a Low range situation shows bad skills.
Is there anyboody out there who runs 35's who really knows how to 4wd. Who has broken lets say an axle 4wding it can be a little bit extreme but not trying to climb a rock face that needed 30 attempts and at the end of the day you had to winch up anyway.
In short broken an axle doing normal 4wding.
Thanks for anybody who can help
Disco Stew Says Disco 1 Is Cool EEEEH !!
I put ARB Locker in the rear ($1500 with the small compressor)- with standard axles.
6 months later broke an axle on a rocky track. ... put in maxidrive axles in rear ($600).
Then changed to Ashcroft CWP (4.11) from 4x4intelligence $1100.00 for both front and rear ($500 to install - but I took the diff centres out of the axles). While I had the front diff out for the CWP I had an ARB locker put in the front ($1100)
Apparently the problem with the standard diff centres is that they flex slightly under extreme load which allows the pinion gear to climb higher on the crown teeth - that is what usually breaks.
My standard rear diff had badly cracked spider gears (the 4 small gears in the centre of the diff) and that was after running 32" Simex ET's for 12 months.
I havn't changed any front axles or cv's. I only use the front locker in emergency - try not to shock load it.
That's my experience.
6 months later broke an axle on a rocky track. ... put in maxidrive axles in rear ($600).
Then changed to Ashcroft CWP (4.11) from 4x4intelligence $1100.00 for both front and rear ($500 to install - but I took the diff centres out of the axles). While I had the front diff out for the CWP I had an ARB locker put in the front ($1100)
Apparently the problem with the standard diff centres is that they flex slightly under extreme load which allows the pinion gear to climb higher on the crown teeth - that is what usually breaks.
My standard rear diff had badly cracked spider gears (the 4 small gears in the centre of the diff) and that was after running 32" Simex ET's for 12 months.
I havn't changed any front axles or cv's. I only use the front locker in emergency - try not to shock load it.
That's my experience.
Toy 100 series now with a few mods
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
Yes, Me and countless other people on this forum - hence the opinion the rover stuff is crap.grover1968 wrote:Is that an informed opinion, or just what you have heard. I was wondering if the axles are breaking because of people who put 35's on usually drive like there truck like it is invinceable.
As we all know there are people who have experience 4wding and those who are just tools.
I remember talking to a mechanic who was driving in the Cape with a Guy who was driving a 2006 model defender which we all have heard the stories about them breaking these type of components with standard wheels. Anyway the mechanic (Diesel) Said the breakages were caused by his driving technique and nothing else. His 4wding expierince was poor and basically useing a bootfull of clutch in a Low range situation shows bad skills.
Is there anyboody out there who runs 35's who really knows how to 4wd. Who has broken lets say an axle 4wding it can be a little bit extreme but not trying to climb a rock face that needed 30 attempts and at the end of the day you had to winch up anyway.
In short broken an axle doing normal 4wding.
Thanks for anybody who can help
You can always carry spares and they are cheap which is a great thing to do, but you still have a weak setup and will forever be worring if you will break something on this obstacle or that trip.
Unfortunately, if there is one item on a rover that you can't skimp on - it is the diffs.
You also have to remember that you have now increased your tire diameter by 6'', therefore not only multifplying the torque load on the axle but increasing the rotational mass - so your chances of breaking this are much much higher than before.
Before you upset anyone with your comments, I suggest that you search the rover archives and read up on peoples experiences. The are many people within this forum with a wealth of knowledge and I suggest you find out who they are before you question peoples comments or opinions.
Cheers
Dave.
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
cheap option.
detroit in rear maxi/jacmac axles. still stuck with rover c&P.
fit jacmac/maxi diff lock and thier axles. still stuck with rover C&P
better fit toy diff centre and jacmac axles.
also can fit nissan diffs.
Michael.
detroit in rear maxi/jacmac axles. still stuck with rover c&P.
fit jacmac/maxi diff lock and thier axles. still stuck with rover C&P
better fit toy diff centre and jacmac axles.
also can fit nissan diffs.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Thanks for the info. Sorry to upset you Dave but a lot of people have opinions!!!! and they are sometimes based on little or no knowlege!! and this is why I asked.
Does anybody know or use the Snake racing 30mm spacer they have for sale which extends the lenght of the drive shaft to get more contact for those of us with over 2 inch of lift. Its only $95 and seems like a good idea. Is this a preventative measure those of you with 35's have taken already.
Does anybody know or use the Snake racing 30mm spacer they have for sale which extends the lenght of the drive shaft to get more contact for those of us with over 2 inch of lift. Its only $95 and seems like a good idea. Is this a preventative measure those of you with 35's have taken already.
Disco Stew Says Disco 1 Is Cool EEEEH !!
I'm not upset nor do I care - just pointing something out to you.grover1968 wrote:Thanks for the info. Sorry to upset you Dave but a lot of people have opinions!!!! and they are sometimes based on little or no knowlege!! and this is why I asked.
Does anybody know or use the Snake racing 30mm spacer they have for sale which extends the lenght of the drive shaft to get more contact for those of us with over 2 inch of lift. Its only $95 and seems like a good idea. Is this a preventative measure those of you with 35's have taken already.
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
I forgot to mention in my last reply that I now run 35" Silverstone EX's.
The gearing is perfect. The speedo is spot on.
You don't need the 30mm drive shaft extension. I would suggest though that you get rid of the rubber coupling in the drive shaft and replace it with a proper universal joint. Even normal tyres and some decent offroading will chew the rubber ring to pieces. You just need to get a 4 bolt drive flange from a rangie (AND a spacer - do a search for this mod on some of the forums) and have the drive shaft modified. All up it costs about $250. Cheap compared to rubber doughnuts costing about $150 a throw.
There are always a number of ways to 'mod' something - and you'll be swamped with opinions.
I've also seen rangies modified sooo much that the only thing left original was the chassis and the body. The entire engine/drivechain suspension and axles were sourced from other makes (nissan toyota etc). It all depends on who you talk to, source of bits and pieces, skill and dollars.
good luck
The gearing is perfect. The speedo is spot on.
You don't need the 30mm drive shaft extension. I would suggest though that you get rid of the rubber coupling in the drive shaft and replace it with a proper universal joint. Even normal tyres and some decent offroading will chew the rubber ring to pieces. You just need to get a 4 bolt drive flange from a rangie (AND a spacer - do a search for this mod on some of the forums) and have the drive shaft modified. All up it costs about $250. Cheap compared to rubber doughnuts costing about $150 a throw.
There are always a number of ways to 'mod' something - and you'll be swamped with opinions.
I've also seen rangies modified sooo much that the only thing left original was the chassis and the body. The entire engine/drivechain suspension and axles were sourced from other makes (nissan toyota etc). It all depends on who you talk to, source of bits and pieces, skill and dollars.
good luck
Toy 100 series now with a few mods
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
Re: CWP for Disco 1
Your question doesn't make sensegrover1968 wrote:Anybody know the best option for CWP for my disco 1 Im not talking ratio. Who has the best price option available. Also am I correct in assuming you only have to do one !! Front or rear !!
Running 35" simex centrepeeds
What do you want to know
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
I meant I know what ratio I need just needed to know of anybody that makes CWP for Disco 1.
Also I reading on the Les richmond web site he has CWP for about $650 but his quote said front or rear and not Each !! So I was wondering, do you only have to do 1cwp front or rear or is it both have to be done
Also I reading on the Les richmond web site he has CWP for about $650 but his quote said front or rear and not Each !! So I was wondering, do you only have to do 1cwp front or rear or is it both have to be done
Last edited by grover1968 on Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Disco Stew Says Disco 1 Is Cool EEEEH !!
Thanks for your replies Disco1. When I read your reply and you said you had done that damage with 32"s I got worried as I have been running 32's for about 18months Goodyear MTR's and was wondeing how my difffs looked inside.
Done some pretty nasty rock work and don't have any wierd noises or grinding happening in there.
Guess when I break my first axle I will pull it all apart and see whats been going on in there.
Done some pretty nasty rock work and don't have any wierd noises or grinding happening in there.
Guess when I break my first axle I will pull it all apart and see whats been going on in there.
Disco Stew Says Disco 1 Is Cool EEEEH !!
So what ratio do you want??
Got lockers already, axles??
The problem you'll face is once you fit nice expensive ring and pinions on a standard centre, when you lunch your centre their is a good chance of damaging the ring and pinion
You need to replace front and rear if your changing ratios
Got lockers already, axles??
The problem you'll face is once you fit nice expensive ring and pinions on a standard centre, when you lunch your centre their is a good chance of damaging the ring and pinion
You need to replace front and rear if your changing ratios
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
I thought it was a bit funny him saying front or rear on his site. I was trying to work out how you would only need to do either.
I thought it was only axles that were the drama. Dam looks like a lot of money to get it all sorted might have to put the 4wding of for a while. Might be a long while.
With all the dollars I spent already the wells just about dry. Oh well It will look good sitting out the front for a few years.
I thought it was only axles that were the drama. Dam looks like a lot of money to get it all sorted might have to put the 4wding of for a while. Might be a long while.
With all the dollars I spent already the wells just about dry. Oh well It will look good sitting out the front for a few years.
Disco Stew Says Disco 1 Is Cool EEEEH !!
Aggh, reread, your talking the LRA sitegrover1968 wrote:I thought it was a bit funny him saying front or rear on his site.
Why is it funny they're available seperately, I originally purchased a front only, I had a 9" in the back, what happens when one gets damaged?? you dont want to buy a pair
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Why is it funny they're available seperately, I originally purchased a front only, I had a 9" in the back, what happens when one gets damaged?? you dont want to buy a pair
Hi There.
Just a quick question .
If you had an 9 " why did you remove it ?
Cheers
V8 beats gravity
If you cant buy it , Make it !
Bob tail Rangey
If you cant buy it , Make it !
Bob tail Rangey
this spacer does nothing to correct drive shaft angles, it just lengthens it.grover1968 wrote:Thanks for the info. Sorry to upset you Dave but a lot of people have opinions!!!! and they are sometimes based on little or no knowlege!! and this is why I asked.
Does anybody know or use the Snake racing 30mm spacer they have for sale which extends the lenght of the drive shaft to get more contact for those of us with over 2 inch of lift. Its only $95 and seems like a good idea. Is this a preventative measure those of you with 35's have taken already.
I run silverstome mt117 35s.
toy diffs 4.3 ratio.
jacmac axles.
profield cvs (modded toy)
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Many moons ago, I wrecked a pair of rangies, one had a rear maxi, as my 9" was only an LSD and I already had a front maxi, I bought another 4.11 CW&P and fitted the maxi to the rearBraudy wrote:Why is it funny they're available seperately, I originally purchased a front only, I had a 9" in the back, what happens when one gets damaged?? you dont want to buy a pair
Hi There.
Just a quick question .
If you had an 9 " why did you remove it ?
Cheers
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
As long as your driveshaft isn't slippling out of the splines you don't need it. Breaking a driveshaft at the splines on a lifted truck (or stock) is very uncommon/unlikely.grover1968 wrote:Snake racing just say that it gives you back your original contact, Nothing about being able to correct your angles. Dam I thought it was a good cheap fix. I guess it would still give you a lot more contact so less chance of breakage.
I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.
I think Snarba (?) on here claims to have done lots of 4x4ing in a rangie with big wheels and a stock drivetrain???
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Is this an informed opinion?? Or is it based on little or no knowledgeISUZUROVER wrote:
I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
you know me mate - always uninformed opinions.cloughy wrote:Is this an informed opinion?? Or is it based on little or no knowledgeISUZUROVER wrote:
I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.
I have broken 3x 10-splines on 235/85s and 1x 24 spline on 33's (and a couple of diffs) - bbut I must have been driving like an idiot mustn't I??? Especially since 2 of the 10-spliners were ON-ROAD - one driving down hill!!!
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I met a bloke you said that would be because of your driving style, components only break if your being a tool, rover stuff is plenty strong enough for 35'sISUZUROVER wrote:you know me mate - always uninformed opinions.cloughy wrote:Is this an informed opinion?? Or is it based on little or no knowledgeISUZUROVER wrote:
I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.
I have broken 3x 10-splines on 235/85s and 1x 24 spline on 33's (and a couple of diffs) - bbut I must have been driving like an idiot mustn't I??? Especially since 2 of the 10-spliners were ON-ROAD - one driving down hill!!!
Shit can't hold up to 31's
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
So that means if I change my driving style I can put wheels like this:cloughy wrote:
I met a bloke you said that would be because of your driving style, components only break if your being a tool, rover stuff is plenty strong enough for 35's
Shit can't hold up to 31's
On the IIA and I won't break anything??? (I think that is actually what the SMHEA tried to do!!!)
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I got nothin' that'll compete with thatISUZUROVER wrote:So that means if I change my driving style I can put wheels like this:cloughy wrote:
I met a bloke you said that would be because of your driving style, components only break if your being a tool, rover stuff is plenty strong enough for 35's
Shit can't hold up to 31's
On the IIA and I won't break anything??? (I think that is actually what the SMHEA tried to do!!!)
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Ive been running 32'" mtr's for the past few years and its all held together, survived about 3 trips to Land cruiser mountain Park. Cityview, The Cape. don't know what else I could throw at it to break them. Maybe a set of 35" simex extremes might be able to get the job done.
Disco Stew Says Disco 1 Is Cool EEEEH !!
who got maxi rear axles for $600???? We paid 800plus recently:( B'tards
PS I agree that standard gear will hold up in the main - I've seen it take some aweful punishment.....and I think we need to recognise that like any other vehicle, Jap included, worn gear will break sooner - often as a result of fair wear and tear from many years of on-road service, but then suddenly subjected to enourmous stresses off-road later in life, on huge tyres and heaps of right foot, it lets go. Seen this happen to our 40 series 'cause the axle splines, synchros and diffs etc were simply worn out after 500K plus work.
I really think the stories about Rover failures/weaknesses are exaggerated:) and unlike Yotas and Nissans this is portrayed as a fundamental weakness when in fact it is not. Seen a Disco with 500 000 hard (desert survey and other cross--country work since new), and whilst the auto gear box was stuffed (understandibly), the TDI engine and remainder of the car was unbelievably good.
But, for 35s. like on other vehicles, gearing changes will be needed to maintain drivability etc, and drive- train strengthening is highly recommended especially in the areas of axles and CWP by pegging the diff. On a cost basis, you need to consider whether it is more productive to take a risk and get some spares, or invest in the good stuff - which you will be able to sell on later. But second-hand gear is becoming expensive, and as said above, it is usually worn and already stressed by the time the vehicle is parted out. This also applies to Yota/Nissan conversion which whilst good and in the case of Nissan diffs will be stronger (and heaps heavier), second-hand units can cost you lots in reconditioning, fittment and engineering, and you will lose some ground clearance over the Rover set-up when using Nissan/Yota banjos.
So the choice is yours, take the risk, drive very cautiously on 35s, or bite the bullet and up-grade the key bits.
PS breakages happen to everyone so don't let them make you believe Rovers are somehow worse. On several recent 4wd trips, I have seen many Yota and some Nissan parts bust (eg. CVs, clutches, chassis mounts, shock mounts and even steering boxes give way), and yet no-one is saying they are a POS.
PS I agree that standard gear will hold up in the main - I've seen it take some aweful punishment.....and I think we need to recognise that like any other vehicle, Jap included, worn gear will break sooner - often as a result of fair wear and tear from many years of on-road service, but then suddenly subjected to enourmous stresses off-road later in life, on huge tyres and heaps of right foot, it lets go. Seen this happen to our 40 series 'cause the axle splines, synchros and diffs etc were simply worn out after 500K plus work.
I really think the stories about Rover failures/weaknesses are exaggerated:) and unlike Yotas and Nissans this is portrayed as a fundamental weakness when in fact it is not. Seen a Disco with 500 000 hard (desert survey and other cross--country work since new), and whilst the auto gear box was stuffed (understandibly), the TDI engine and remainder of the car was unbelievably good.
But, for 35s. like on other vehicles, gearing changes will be needed to maintain drivability etc, and drive- train strengthening is highly recommended especially in the areas of axles and CWP by pegging the diff. On a cost basis, you need to consider whether it is more productive to take a risk and get some spares, or invest in the good stuff - which you will be able to sell on later. But second-hand gear is becoming expensive, and as said above, it is usually worn and already stressed by the time the vehicle is parted out. This also applies to Yota/Nissan conversion which whilst good and in the case of Nissan diffs will be stronger (and heaps heavier), second-hand units can cost you lots in reconditioning, fittment and engineering, and you will lose some ground clearance over the Rover set-up when using Nissan/Yota banjos.
So the choice is yours, take the risk, drive very cautiously on 35s, or bite the bullet and up-grade the key bits.
PS breakages happen to everyone so don't let them make you believe Rovers are somehow worse. On several recent 4wd trips, I have seen many Yota and some Nissan parts bust (eg. CVs, clutches, chassis mounts, shock mounts and even steering boxes give way), and yet no-one is saying they are a POS.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
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