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CWP for Disco 1

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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CWP for Disco 1

Post by grover1968 »

Anybody know the best option for CWP for my disco 1 Im not talking ratio. Who has the best price option available. Also am I correct in assuming you only have to do one !! Front or rear !!
Running 35" simex centrepeeds
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Post by DaveS3 »

Do you have lockers or shafts already??

If not, do the Toy Centre conversion (search for it)
It will be more expensive, but worth the extra $$$ in strength.

Im about to order my parts next week.

Cheers
Dave.
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Post by grover1968 »

Unfortunatly Its all about dollars, so I have to take the cheaper option, I wish I had the funds to spend but the wife has run out of smpathy for my project and I would hate to see it end here.
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Post by red90 »

Sorry, this is a Disco 1??

What is in their now??

Basically every stock rotating bit is not strong enough for 35s. The CWPs are the strongest bits in there when stock. Axleshafts, CVs, and diff centers are all weaker and in no way can take 35s.
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Post by grover1968 »

Is that an informed opinion, or just what you have heard. I was wondering if the axles are breaking because of people who put 35's on usually drive like there truck like it is invinceable.
As we all know there are people who have experience 4wding and those who are just tools.
I remember talking to a mechanic who was driving in the Cape with a Guy who was driving a 2006 model defender which we all have heard the stories about them breaking these type of components with standard wheels. Anyway the mechanic (Diesel) Said the breakages were caused by his driving technique and nothing else. His 4wding expierince was poor and basically useing a bootfull of clutch in a Low range situation shows bad skills.
Is there anyboody out there who runs 35's who really knows how to 4wd. Who has broken lets say an axle 4wding it can be a little bit extreme but not trying to climb a rock face that needed 30 attempts and at the end of the day you had to winch up anyway.
In short broken an axle doing normal 4wding.
Thanks for anybody who can help
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Post by 86MUD »

As soon as you lift a wheel, let it spin, then drop it back down to earth, something will break with the 35's no matter how much of a light weight right foot you are. This is the standard on Rovers.

Don' skimp around....just fork out the dough on maxi drive axles lockers and tougher cv's
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Post by Disco1Modified »

I put ARB Locker in the rear ($1500 with the small compressor)- with standard axles.
6 months later broke an axle on a rocky track. ... put in maxidrive axles in rear ($600).
Then changed to Ashcroft CWP (4.11) from 4x4intelligence $1100.00 for both front and rear ($500 to install - but I took the diff centres out of the axles). While I had the front diff out for the CWP I had an ARB locker put in the front ($1100)

Apparently the problem with the standard diff centres is that they flex slightly under extreme load which allows the pinion gear to climb higher on the crown teeth - that is what usually breaks.

My standard rear diff had badly cracked spider gears (the 4 small gears in the centre of the diff) and that was after running 32" Simex ET's for 12 months.

I havn't changed any front axles or cv's. I only use the front locker in emergency - try not to shock load it.

That's my experience.
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Post by DaveS3 »

grover1968 wrote:Is that an informed opinion, or just what you have heard. I was wondering if the axles are breaking because of people who put 35's on usually drive like there truck like it is invinceable.
As we all know there are people who have experience 4wding and those who are just tools.
I remember talking to a mechanic who was driving in the Cape with a Guy who was driving a 2006 model defender which we all have heard the stories about them breaking these type of components with standard wheels. Anyway the mechanic (Diesel) Said the breakages were caused by his driving technique and nothing else. His 4wding expierince was poor and basically useing a bootfull of clutch in a Low range situation shows bad skills.
Is there anyboody out there who runs 35's who really knows how to 4wd. Who has broken lets say an axle 4wding it can be a little bit extreme but not trying to climb a rock face that needed 30 attempts and at the end of the day you had to winch up anyway.
In short broken an axle doing normal 4wding.
Thanks for anybody who can help
Yes, Me and countless other people on this forum - hence the opinion the rover stuff is crap.

You can always carry spares and they are cheap which is a great thing to do, but you still have a weak setup and will forever be worring if you will break something on this obstacle or that trip.
Unfortunately, if there is one item on a rover that you can't skimp on - it is the diffs.

You also have to remember that you have now increased your tire diameter by 6'', therefore not only multifplying the torque load on the axle but increasing the rotational mass - so your chances of breaking this are much much higher than before.

Before you upset anyone with your comments, I suggest that you search the rover archives and read up on peoples experiences. The are many people within this forum with a wealth of knowledge and I suggest you find out who they are before you question peoples comments or opinions.

Cheers
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Post by HSV Rangie »

cheap option.

detroit in rear maxi/jacmac axles. still stuck with rover c&P.


fit jacmac/maxi diff lock and thier axles. still stuck with rover C&P

better fit toy diff centre and jacmac axles.

also can fit nissan diffs.

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Post by grover1968 »

Thanks for the info. Sorry to upset you Dave but a lot of people have opinions!!!! and they are sometimes based on little or no knowlege!! and this is why I asked.
Does anybody know or use the Snake racing 30mm spacer they have for sale which extends the lenght of the drive shaft to get more contact for those of us with over 2 inch of lift. Its only $95 and seems like a good idea. Is this a preventative measure those of you with 35's have taken already.
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Post by DaveS3 »

grover1968 wrote:Thanks for the info. Sorry to upset you Dave but a lot of people have opinions!!!! and they are sometimes based on little or no knowlege!! and this is why I asked.
Does anybody know or use the Snake racing 30mm spacer they have for sale which extends the lenght of the drive shaft to get more contact for those of us with over 2 inch of lift. Its only $95 and seems like a good idea. Is this a preventative measure those of you with 35's have taken already.
I'm not upset nor do I care - just pointing something out to you.
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Post by Disco1Modified »

I forgot to mention in my last reply that I now run 35" Silverstone EX's.
The gearing is perfect. The speedo is spot on.
You don't need the 30mm drive shaft extension. I would suggest though that you get rid of the rubber coupling in the drive shaft and replace it with a proper universal joint. Even normal tyres and some decent offroading will chew the rubber ring to pieces. You just need to get a 4 bolt drive flange from a rangie (AND a spacer - do a search for this mod on some of the forums) and have the drive shaft modified. All up it costs about $250. Cheap compared to rubber doughnuts costing about $150 a throw.

There are always a number of ways to 'mod' something - and you'll be swamped with opinions.

I've also seen rangies modified sooo much that the only thing left original was the chassis and the body. The entire engine/drivechain suspension and axles were sourced from other makes (nissan toyota etc). It all depends on who you talk to, source of bits and pieces, skill and dollars.

good luck
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Re: CWP for Disco 1

Post by cloughy »

grover1968 wrote:Anybody know the best option for CWP for my disco 1 Im not talking ratio. Who has the best price option available. Also am I correct in assuming you only have to do one !! Front or rear !!
Running 35" simex centrepeeds
Your question doesn't make sense :roll:

What do you want to know
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Post by grover1968 »

I meant I know what ratio I need just needed to know of anybody that makes CWP for Disco 1.
Also I reading on the Les richmond web site he has CWP for about $650 but his quote said front or rear and not Each !! So I was wondering, do you only have to do 1cwp front or rear or is it both have to be done
Last edited by grover1968 on Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by grover1968 »

Thanks for your replies Disco1. When I read your reply and you said you had done that damage with 32"s I got worried as I have been running 32's for about 18months Goodyear MTR's and was wondeing how my difffs looked inside.
Done some pretty nasty rock work and don't have any wierd noises or grinding happening in there.
Guess when I break my first axle I will pull it all apart and see whats been going on in there.
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Post by cloughy »

So what ratio do you want??

Got lockers already, axles??

The problem you'll face is once you fit nice expensive ring and pinions on a standard centre, when you lunch your centre their is a good chance of damaging the ring and pinion

You need to replace front and rear if your changing ratios
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Post by grover1968 »

I thought it was a bit funny him saying front or rear on his site. I was trying to work out how you would only need to do either.
I thought it was only axles that were the drama. Dam looks like a lot of money to get it all sorted might have to put the 4wding of for a while. Might be a long while.
With all the dollars I spent already the wells just about dry. Oh well It will look good sitting out the front for a few years.
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Post by cloughy »

grover1968 wrote:I thought it was a bit funny him saying front or rear on his site.
Aggh, reread, your talking the LRA site

Why is it funny they're available seperately, I originally purchased a front only, I had a 9" in the back, what happens when one gets damaged?? you dont want to buy a pair
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Post by Braudy »

Why is it funny they're available seperately, I originally purchased a front only, I had a 9" in the back, what happens when one gets damaged?? you dont want to buy a pair

Hi There.

Just a quick question .

If you had an 9 " why did you remove it ?

Cheers
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Post by HSV Rangie »

grover1968 wrote:Thanks for the info. Sorry to upset you Dave but a lot of people have opinions!!!! and they are sometimes based on little or no knowlege!! and this is why I asked.
Does anybody know or use the Snake racing 30mm spacer they have for sale which extends the lenght of the drive shaft to get more contact for those of us with over 2 inch of lift. Its only $95 and seems like a good idea. Is this a preventative measure those of you with 35's have taken already.
this spacer does nothing to correct drive shaft angles, it just lengthens it.

I run silverstome mt117 35s.

toy diffs 4.3 ratio.
jacmac axles.
profield cvs (modded toy)

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
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Post by cloughy »

Braudy wrote:
Why is it funny they're available seperately, I originally purchased a front only, I had a 9" in the back, what happens when one gets damaged?? you dont want to buy a pair

Hi There.

Just a quick question .

If you had an 9 " why did you remove it ?

Cheers
Many moons ago, I wrecked a pair of rangies, one had a rear maxi, as my 9" was only an LSD and I already had a front maxi, I bought another 4.11 CW&P and fitted the maxi to the rear
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Post by grover1968 »

Snake racing just say that it gives you back your original contact, Nothing about being able to correct your angles. Dam I thought it was a good cheap fix. I guess it would still give you a lot more contact so less chance of breakage.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

grover1968 wrote:Snake racing just say that it gives you back your original contact, Nothing about being able to correct your angles. Dam I thought it was a good cheap fix. I guess it would still give you a lot more contact so less chance of breakage.
As long as your driveshaft isn't slippling out of the splines you don't need it. Breaking a driveshaft at the splines on a lifted truck (or stock) is very uncommon/unlikely.

I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.

I think Snarba (?) on here claims to have done lots of 4x4ing in a rangie with big wheels and a stock drivetrain???
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Post by cloughy »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.
Is this an informed opinion?? Or is it based on little or no knowledge :rofl:
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

cloughy wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.
Is this an informed opinion?? Or is it based on little or no knowledge :rofl:
:rofl: you know me mate - always uninformed opinions. :D

I have broken 3x 10-splines on 235/85s and 1x 24 spline on 33's (and a couple of diffs) - bbut I must have been driving like an idiot mustn't I??? :D Especially since 2 of the 10-spliners were ON-ROAD - one driving down hill!!!
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Post by cloughy »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
cloughy wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
I will also add that your running gear WILL NOT hold up to 35's. But there is nothing to stop you trying to prove everyone wrong - just carry some spare axles.
Is this an informed opinion?? Or is it based on little or no knowledge :rofl:
:rofl: you know me mate - always uninformed opinions. :D

I have broken 3x 10-splines on 235/85s and 1x 24 spline on 33's (and a couple of diffs) - bbut I must have been driving like an idiot mustn't I??? :D Especially since 2 of the 10-spliners were ON-ROAD - one driving down hill!!!
:D I met a bloke you said that would be because of your driving style, components only break if your being a tool, rover stuff is plenty strong enough for 35's :rofl:

Shit can't hold up to 31's :lol:
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

cloughy wrote:
:D I met a bloke you said that would be because of your driving style, components only break if your being a tool, rover stuff is plenty strong enough for 35's :rofl:

Shit can't hold up to 31's :lol:
So that means if I change my driving style I can put wheels like this:
Image
On the IIA and I won't break anything??? (I think that is actually what the SMHEA tried to do!!!)
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Post by cloughy »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
cloughy wrote:
:D I met a bloke you said that would be because of your driving style, components only break if your being a tool, rover stuff is plenty strong enough for 35's :rofl:

Shit can't hold up to 31's :lol:
So that means if I change my driving style I can put wheels like this:
Image
On the IIA and I won't break anything??? (I think that is actually what the SMHEA tried to do!!!)
:rofl: I got nothin' that'll compete with that :rofl: :armsup:
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Post by grover1968 »

Ive been running 32'" mtr's for the past few years and its all held together, survived about 3 trips to Land cruiser mountain Park. Cityview, The Cape. don't know what else I could throw at it to break them. Maybe a set of 35" simex extremes might be able to get the job done.
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Post by Reddo »

who got maxi rear axles for $600???? We paid 800plus recently:( B'tards

PS I agree that standard gear will hold up in the main - I've seen it take some aweful punishment.....and I think we need to recognise that like any other vehicle, Jap included, worn gear will break sooner - often as a result of fair wear and tear from many years of on-road service, but then suddenly subjected to enourmous stresses off-road later in life, on huge tyres and heaps of right foot, it lets go. Seen this happen to our 40 series 'cause the axle splines, synchros and diffs etc were simply worn out after 500K plus work.

I really think the stories about Rover failures/weaknesses are exaggerated:) and unlike Yotas and Nissans this is portrayed as a fundamental weakness when in fact it is not. Seen a Disco with 500 000 hard (desert survey and other cross--country work since new), and whilst the auto gear box was stuffed (understandibly), the TDI engine and remainder of the car was unbelievably good.

But, for 35s. like on other vehicles, gearing changes will be needed to maintain drivability etc, and drive- train strengthening is highly recommended especially in the areas of axles and CWP by pegging the diff. On a cost basis, you need to consider whether it is more productive to take a risk and get some spares, or invest in the good stuff - which you will be able to sell on later. But second-hand gear is becoming expensive, and as said above, it is usually worn and already stressed by the time the vehicle is parted out. This also applies to Yota/Nissan conversion which whilst good and in the case of Nissan diffs will be stronger (and heaps heavier), second-hand units can cost you lots in reconditioning, fittment and engineering, and you will lose some ground clearance over the Rover set-up when using Nissan/Yota banjos.

So the choice is yours, take the risk, drive very cautiously on 35s, or bite the bullet and up-grade the key bits.

PS breakages happen to everyone so don't let them make you believe Rovers are somehow worse. On several recent 4wd trips, I have seen many Yota and some Nissan parts bust (eg. CVs, clutches, chassis mounts, shock mounts and even steering boxes give way), and yet no-one is saying they are a POS.
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