I have to agree with Steve here. You have plenty of time to get everything together before you go converting the engine. I wouldnt be worried about how quickly you can get a conversion kit right now. Concentrate on the body for now, get it up to scratch and then look at other things.
But to answer your questions the last kit he made me took a few weeks. The best gearbox is the T50 from the AE86 Sprinter. There are 2 types, one is 20 spline and the other 22, although I have yet to see a 20 spline box they are apparently not as strong. All Jap spec boxes are 22 spline (from what I have heard) and have the clutch slave cylinder on the R/H side. The Aussie spec gearboxes have the slave on the L/H side. I can only assume the differences here were for either the 4A-C or 4A-GE engine but not sure why.
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!! Has Anyone Put a 4age in a Sierra LWB OR SWB !!
Last edited by Bazooka on Wed Jul 11, 2007 7:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
ok
Aerenandmel off this forum had a 4age in his 1 litre swb zuk backed up by a t50 box,extractors,xhaust microtech computer etc and it was awesome.it copped some abuse and the 1 ltr diffs etc held up fine,much better than his other 4k zuk n my std 1.3 zuk. Id love to own one after seeing the difference it makes,very impressive.
sierra truggy,37 sticky treps,propane,6.5s and disconnect,lux diffs with spools,16" fox shox,hydro steer.
got the little beast home
steve
had a big releif when i removed the windscreen only to find no bog work and no rust appart from where it could be seen will most likely need new windscreen tho as has rust on the inside but might still be good for rego but will see
the back bar is covered in bog and rust will need to chop and weld new bar in going to use like 2mm think fla bar bunnings can supply that at a good price as i work there will be getting a wire fed cigwelder from there also to assist in the wellding jobs as the stick weld will be to hot and burn every thing
umm engine works put new points in went ok had no petrol put 10bucks in and the carbie needs a mad clean the guards need to come off and found a small whole of rust on the rear wheel arch which has eaten through the floor but easy fix
umm the front diff needs a sand and a spray?? not sure tho if thats the case might need to get new ones will see and post pics up soon also the brakes and all are rusted bad not worth fixing i think anyway umm rear diff looks or leaf springs are rusted and will need to be changed also the shocks need changing the completly gone. apart from fire wall and the few spots and te bar in the back car seems so far to be in good order very pleased with her so far
managed to get a front cut off a 92 swb got me guards and front clip etc fire wall and anything elese i need
also managed to pck up a complete hard top for the girl for a very good price thanks to butnuckle ( russ ) also who i bought the front cut off cheers
also bonnet has a few holes of rust nothing to bad tho i think at this point in time
steve
had a big releif when i removed the windscreen only to find no bog work and no rust appart from where it could be seen will most likely need new windscreen tho as has rust on the inside but might still be good for rego but will see
the back bar is covered in bog and rust will need to chop and weld new bar in going to use like 2mm think fla bar bunnings can supply that at a good price as i work there will be getting a wire fed cigwelder from there also to assist in the wellding jobs as the stick weld will be to hot and burn every thing
umm engine works put new points in went ok had no petrol put 10bucks in and the carbie needs a mad clean the guards need to come off and found a small whole of rust on the rear wheel arch which has eaten through the floor but easy fix
umm the front diff needs a sand and a spray?? not sure tho if thats the case might need to get new ones will see and post pics up soon also the brakes and all are rusted bad not worth fixing i think anyway umm rear diff looks or leaf springs are rusted and will need to be changed also the shocks need changing the completly gone. apart from fire wall and the few spots and te bar in the back car seems so far to be in good order very pleased with her so far
managed to get a front cut off a 92 swb got me guards and front clip etc fire wall and anything elese i need
also managed to pck up a complete hard top for the girl for a very good price thanks to butnuckle ( russ ) also who i bought the front cut off cheers
also bonnet has a few holes of rust nothing to bad tho i think at this point in time
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
Nice work Try_me - you have done well getting all that stuff - looks like an easy job now - just time consuming.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
yes i agree buying a welder from bunnings tomorrow and going to have to see either a flat, C channel or L channel bar to weld up in the rearGwagensteve wrote:
Nice work Try_me - you have done well getting all that stuff - looks like an easy job now - just time consuming.
Steve.
what do you guys think flat bar or L or C channel bars
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
50mmX25mm 'C' channel, 3mm thick, is a tight but good fit over the top of the rails. I did this with a club members car last year and it worked a treat. It adds a lot of strength to the tub - we mounted a luggage rack onto it.
Be careful though, there are a few issues with welding onto this rail. It is a double skin and there is seam sealer between the two. You will struggle like crazy to weld if there is any rust between the two panels.
Also, a quick word about bunnings welders.
Cheap Mig welders tend to have the following characteristics:
Some of them have very little adjustability If you need to turn it right down to weld body panels you will need to be able to turn it right down. Some only have a "high" and "low" setting.
Some do not allow gas to be used. Being committed to flux core wire is expensive and leads to messy welds.
Some don't take 5kg spools, only 500gm spools. 500gm spools are achingly expensive and you will go through it really fast, especially if you are running flux core wire (which doesn't pack as much steel in is solid wire for the same welding time)
I'm not saying you can't buy a good welder at Bunnings, but there are lots of rubbish ones available.
My folks bought me my Mig as a 21st present.... 11 years ago. It's an Esab 140amp model (runs off a 10amp socket) It's been perfectly reliable. It's the most useful thing I own.
They are alot cheaper than they used to be and quality migs start at about $700 now.
With the amount of welding you have ahead of you, don't rush in and buy a cheapie. If you buy a decent one it will become your best friend.
Steve.
Be careful though, there are a few issues with welding onto this rail. It is a double skin and there is seam sealer between the two. You will struggle like crazy to weld if there is any rust between the two panels.
Also, a quick word about bunnings welders.
Cheap Mig welders tend to have the following characteristics:
Some of them have very little adjustability If you need to turn it right down to weld body panels you will need to be able to turn it right down. Some only have a "high" and "low" setting.
Some do not allow gas to be used. Being committed to flux core wire is expensive and leads to messy welds.
Some don't take 5kg spools, only 500gm spools. 500gm spools are achingly expensive and you will go through it really fast, especially if you are running flux core wire (which doesn't pack as much steel in is solid wire for the same welding time)
I'm not saying you can't buy a good welder at Bunnings, but there are lots of rubbish ones available.
My folks bought me my Mig as a 21st present.... 11 years ago. It's an Esab 140amp model (runs off a 10amp socket) It's been perfectly reliable. It's the most useful thing I own.
They are alot cheaper than they used to be and quality migs start at about $700 now.
With the amount of welding you have ahead of you, don't rush in and buy a cheapie. If you buy a decent one it will become your best friend.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Location: in the shed cutting/grinding/welding mocks old shit vic
got mine at a garage sale for $500, it's 195 amp single phase.
hunt around in the trade & post, ebay and local garage sales you will find a cheap good mig easy. even try the welder supply shops, they sometimes have cheap ones that have been traded.
Mitch
hunt around in the trade & post, ebay and local garage sales you will find a cheap good mig easy. even try the welder supply shops, they sometimes have cheap ones that have been traded.
Mitch
[quote="Gwagensteve"]
nope, apparently I hate suzukis so nobody should be surprised by that :roll:
Steve,[/quote]
[url=http://vic.suzuki4wd.com/]Suzuki 4WD club VIC[/url]
nope, apparently I hate suzukis so nobody should be surprised by that :roll:
Steve,[/quote]
[url=http://vic.suzuki4wd.com/]Suzuki 4WD club VIC[/url]
http://www.ozito.com.au/productinfo.aspx?prodid=OZMW90A
what u think of that???
or
not sure cant find a link buts its a $699 CIG WELD brand welder from bunnings??
the ozito and the cig weld have practically same features the only difference is the brand my mate at work told me and $400 dollars but ye the cig also needs gas i dont have gas and the ozito is gas less more practical for me to use
what u think of that???
or
not sure cant find a link buts its a $699 CIG WELD brand welder from bunnings??
the ozito and the cig weld have practically same features the only difference is the brand my mate at work told me and $400 dollars but ye the cig also needs gas i dont have gas and the ozito is gas less more practical for me to use
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
http://www.cigweld.com.au/uplFiles/prod ... %206pp.pdf
The 90 is gasless only
The 135 will do gas/gasless.
Any welder that uses gas will also weld gasless with the right wire. If you buy a welder that is advertised as "gasless" you won't be able to add gas later on when you get sick of gasless wire (which you will)
Flux core wire is about 3 times dearer than solid wire. It is actually cheaper to weld with gas and it gives a much cleaner, better result.
I ran flux core for ages but once I went to gas I would never go back.
Flux core (gasless) is really intended for welding outdoors or in remote locations where gas is not practical.
Every cheap tool I have ever bought has had to be replaced. Spend the money and get the trade quality tool (cigweld)
I work in the industry - I do non destructive testing and inspection of welds for a living.
Steve.
PS saying that the $400 product and the $700 product are the same on features is like saying a Lada Niva and a vitara are the same because they are both 1.6 and coil sprung
The 90 is gasless only
The 135 will do gas/gasless.
Any welder that uses gas will also weld gasless with the right wire. If you buy a welder that is advertised as "gasless" you won't be able to add gas later on when you get sick of gasless wire (which you will)
Flux core wire is about 3 times dearer than solid wire. It is actually cheaper to weld with gas and it gives a much cleaner, better result.
I ran flux core for ages but once I went to gas I would never go back.
Flux core (gasless) is really intended for welding outdoors or in remote locations where gas is not practical.
Every cheap tool I have ever bought has had to be replaced. Spend the money and get the trade quality tool (cigweld)
I work in the industry - I do non destructive testing and inspection of welds for a living.
Steve.
PS saying that the $400 product and the $700 product are the same on features is like saying a Lada Niva and a vitara are the same because they are both 1.6 and coil sprung
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
so i think i will be buying the cig weld 135 pretty sure thats the same one at bunnings for 699 so got to save a little dsnt matter as allot of prep work before i can weld needs to be done lol
removed seats carpet not rust on floor the part which runs over your head in the car where its rusted out hasnt rusted the shell of the car but there was rust there previously so need to fix there also
fire wall
can i get it registered in NSW if i cut and weld it my brothers mates which work for mercedes said no way in hell can i get a blue slip like that.
car needs new exhause dont think i want that one looking like that for the blue slip going to have it all painted and looking spik and spam for the blue slip so it passes first go.
under the front seats the guy has cut and welded holes in??? not sure why but the bolts need to be held from the bottom to come off or the nut moves and when loosen the bolt and nut comes off doesnt that need to be welded to the car??? the bolt i mean
oh yes steve were u located?? also going to looking into ur C channel find one an see how we go.
removed seats carpet not rust on floor the part which runs over your head in the car where its rusted out hasnt rusted the shell of the car but there was rust there previously so need to fix there also
fire wall
can i get it registered in NSW if i cut and weld it my brothers mates which work for mercedes said no way in hell can i get a blue slip like that.
car needs new exhause dont think i want that one looking like that for the blue slip going to have it all painted and looking spik and spam for the blue slip so it passes first go.
under the front seats the guy has cut and welded holes in??? not sure why but the bolts need to be held from the bottom to come off or the nut moves and when loosen the bolt and nut comes off doesnt that need to be welded to the car??? the bolt i mean
oh yes steve were u located?? also going to looking into ur C channel find one an see how we go.
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
The issue with the firewall might get a bit tricky, it depends on how you want to approach it. Removing the whole firewall is no big deal. Buy yourself a spot weld drill (just a specially shaped drill bit) this will become your new best friend. that way you can get the whole firewall out clean.
the complicated bit is how you approach it in regards to legality. If you talk to an engineer, odds are he will want you to run boosted brakes. As you already have the firewall from a boosted brake model, and need a rust repair, I reckon the engineer will love it.
If you try and do the repair before then engineer sees the car, he might pick up what you have done and become a bit suspiscious. If the engineer is not aware of the repair and the RWC tester picks it, you could have a stalemate. If the engineer knows, then it will be on the cert - maybe something like - "firewall replaced with later model to permit fitment of boosted brakes" will be on the cert and you will be in the clear.
Personally, If you want to engineer the final product, start talking to the engineer now, don't do any work until you speak to him.
People get scared of talking to engineers because they think they will stop them doing what they want to do. I have not found this to be the case. you will be surprised what and engineer will permit you to change and then you will have the satisfaction of knowing the car is legal end to end.
Steve.
the complicated bit is how you approach it in regards to legality. If you talk to an engineer, odds are he will want you to run boosted brakes. As you already have the firewall from a boosted brake model, and need a rust repair, I reckon the engineer will love it.
If you try and do the repair before then engineer sees the car, he might pick up what you have done and become a bit suspiscious. If the engineer is not aware of the repair and the RWC tester picks it, you could have a stalemate. If the engineer knows, then it will be on the cert - maybe something like - "firewall replaced with later model to permit fitment of boosted brakes" will be on the cert and you will be in the clear.
Personally, If you want to engineer the final product, start talking to the engineer now, don't do any work until you speak to him.
People get scared of talking to engineers because they think they will stop them doing what they want to do. I have not found this to be the case. you will be surprised what and engineer will permit you to change and then you will have the satisfaction of knowing the car is legal end to end.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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