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LRA 30% Suspension kit - Fitted
Moderator: Micka
Mate pics are great and looks like you had some fun taking them ! If your happy with it , thats great as the only person that matters is you at the end of the day , im interested inhaving a look at the rear shock mounts if you have any pics ???
discourage inbreeding , ban country music ! Rover didn't make computers as they just couldn't find a way for them to leak oil .
The main reason i got the kit is to increase down travel cause with the bigger tyres I dont want the up travel comin up to high. There fore I want the extra downtravel to compensate for the loss in up travel
Your little tyres are cute kinda like the ones in my pictures atm
RaginRover thanks for the photos as it will give me something to go by. I stoopidly never experimented with my standard flex......... So i got nuthing to measure the real gain by
I have test flexd the rear end, and it did seem alot more flexy than those shots you got there but i cant really tell to much
Your little tyres are cute kinda like the ones in my pictures atm
RaginRover thanks for the photos as it will give me something to go by. I stoopidly never experimented with my standard flex......... So i got nuthing to measure the real gain by
I have test flexd the rear end, and it did seem alot more flexy than those shots you got there but i cant really tell to much
Cranking the arms does not screw up the diff angles.
It allows you to correct pinion angles and return the arm/links to origonal settings in the chassy bushes, no need for offset bushes, and all mounts stay as per stock.
Michael.
It allows you to correct pinion angles and return the arm/links to origonal settings in the chassy bushes, no need for offset bushes, and all mounts stay as per stock.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
HSV Rangie wrote:Cranking the arms does not screw up the diff angles.
It allows you to correct pinion angles and return the arm/links to origonal settings in the chassy bushes, no need for offset bushes, and all mounts stay as per stock.
Michael.
Were did that come from ? ? ?
I have my cranked arms arrivin in two days, sams slotted bushes ready and waiting for them As soon as there on and I get back from Airlie beach I wanna go out to ormaue (dont know correct spelln) and see how she goes
AnthonyP wrote:
RaginRover thanks for the photos as it will give me something to go by. I stoopidly never experimented with my standard flex......... So i got nuthing to measure the real gain by
I have test flexd the rear end, and it did seem alot more flexy than those shots you got there but i cant really tell to much
The rear end still needs work the shocks are billstiens which are going and I am going to swap them for 80 series ones for some more travel and off load the king springs, the front has had the work done 80 series cruiser shocks and Sam's slotted bushes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mickrangie
The shocks arnt 30% longer they are only 100m longer it's the droop that is 30% more (about 2 inches) rear bushes have kickers that ofset the rear radious arms for a 2 inch lift.... also 2inch drop in the aframe, no need for cranked arms front or rear as they would screw up diff angles (IMHO)
From here.
cant work the quotes
Michael.
Mickrangie
The shocks arnt 30% longer they are only 100m longer it's the droop that is 30% more (about 2 inches) rear bushes have kickers that ofset the rear radious arms for a 2 inch lift.... also 2inch drop in the aframe, no need for cranked arms front or rear as they would screw up diff angles (IMHO)
From here.
cant work the quotes
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
mickrangie wrote:heheh won't be little for long mate .... just waiting for them to wear out got some MTRs on the way !!
What size?
not sure yet mate probably only 31s as that is really all I need and they go pretty well with them much bigger is illegal on my old dunga rangie
the came from factory with 205s so really you can't go much bigger than 31s without pushing the boundaries
HSV Rangie wrote:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mickrangie
The shocks arnt 30% longer they are only 100m longer it's the droop that is 30% more (about 2 inches) rear bushes have kickers that ofset the rear radious arms for a 2 inch lift.... also 2inch drop in the aframe, no need for cranked arms front or rear as they would screw up diff angles (IMHO)
From here.
cant work the quotes
Michael.
Ow sorry i didnt pick up on that one........... You have picked up exactly what shitted me about LRA to start with, I remember when i told Andrew that i was gonan be running cranked arms he tried to advise me not to, he said just run offset bushes cause they corect your caster with out stuffin diff angles etc........ I was like WTF MAN r u on drugs
They both do the same thing............ if your castor is corected than so are you diff angles and spring perches etc.........nope he wouldnt have it, tried to say that the cranked arms bring the input of the diff down away from the output in the transfer case.... DEERRRRRRRRRRRR i just couldnt beleive what i was hearin........... he was tryin to tell me that offset bushes would be better, from that point on I just accepted the kit and decided not to take to much of his advise............
But he seem to know abit about standard range rover stuff, he just doesnt seem to get into the serious offroad stuff to much wierd.
He likes to mod rangies to manafature specs...
Wouldn't cranking the arms put more stress on the cranked parts?
each to there own i guess just depends what you want the car for?? IMHO i would like to keep COG as low as.
Melb dosn't have much rocks so you don't really need farkoff articulation...
Wouldn't cranking the arms put more stress on the cranked parts?
each to there own i guess just depends what you want the car for?? IMHO i would like to keep COG as low as.
Melb dosn't have much rocks so you don't really need farkoff articulation...
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
like i said i dont want super articulation i just wanna increase my down travel to make up for lost up travel when compensating for tyre scrub.
But once again the cranked arms are great of you got 3" or more lift as it reduces the stress on the rubber bushes and there will last alot longer than swiveled bushes as the will last foreva just gotta hope sams slotted bushes are upto the mark.... which no doubt they will be
Keep up the pics Mickrangie. Also if anyone is interested in using the front adjustable shock mounts from Lez Richmond Automotive I might be interested in selling them as atm i am not using them at all
But once again the cranked arms are great of you got 3" or more lift as it reduces the stress on the rubber bushes and there will last alot longer than swiveled bushes as the will last foreva just gotta hope sams slotted bushes are upto the mark.... which no doubt they will be
Keep up the pics Mickrangie. Also if anyone is interested in using the front adjustable shock mounts from Lez Richmond Automotive I might be interested in selling them as atm i am not using them at all
Cranking the arms just restores the links to the factory geometry.
Does not effect the strength of the arms Front can be cranked.
Rears need new.
Offset bushes help at the front restores the camber but does nothing to the arm chassy mount, at 50-75mm spring lift the chassy bushe is already part maxd out. Cranking fixes this.
Michael.
Does not effect the strength of the arms Front can be cranked.
Rears need new.
Offset bushes help at the front restores the camber but does nothing to the arm chassy mount, at 50-75mm spring lift the chassy bushe is already part maxd out. Cranking fixes this.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Have a read of this guyys experiences with cranking his front arms.
http://home.off-road.com/~highrange/index.html
Michael.
http://home.off-road.com/~highrange/index.html
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
!
Anthony
I think you should listen better, and make sure you understand what you have been told before you go off 1/2 cocked. It is correct I do not like the rovatym radius arms. Yes they do correct the caster angle but they upset the diff pinion angle. The angle of the diff may be set to the original angle measured to the ground running a higher bump stop clearance, but your propshaft angle is increased by heaps. As the diff travels upwards towards the bumpstop the pinion will level out and may even point downwards as the diff bottoms out. What I told you was caster bushes have the same effect as the rovatym arms but I DID NOT recomend them to you for your application. I told you to leave the arms alone and correct your caster by rolling the swivels using customized swivels. This will correct your caster and leave your diff pinion angle the same. This way the propshaft always points to the transfer case. Yes I also understand that the laws of tailshaft alignment (phase angles) is brocken but in all honesty the front of a Range Rover never applied anyway. If you do not like my advise don't follow it but do not spend an hour on the phone with me and then bag what I told you when you didn't understand the advise in the first place. I spend many hours on the phone helping people like yourself who is new to the rover industry. If you think you know better, Great, I've only been doing this for the last 20 years. Go figure! After all I was only tring to help you.[/quote]
I think you should listen better, and make sure you understand what you have been told before you go off 1/2 cocked. It is correct I do not like the rovatym radius arms. Yes they do correct the caster angle but they upset the diff pinion angle. The angle of the diff may be set to the original angle measured to the ground running a higher bump stop clearance, but your propshaft angle is increased by heaps. As the diff travels upwards towards the bumpstop the pinion will level out and may even point downwards as the diff bottoms out. What I told you was caster bushes have the same effect as the rovatym arms but I DID NOT recomend them to you for your application. I told you to leave the arms alone and correct your caster by rolling the swivels using customized swivels. This will correct your caster and leave your diff pinion angle the same. This way the propshaft always points to the transfer case. Yes I also understand that the laws of tailshaft alignment (phase angles) is brocken but in all honesty the front of a Range Rover never applied anyway. If you do not like my advise don't follow it but do not spend an hour on the phone with me and then bag what I told you when you didn't understand the advise in the first place. I spend many hours on the phone helping people like yourself who is new to the rover industry. If you think you know better, Great, I've only been doing this for the last 20 years. Go figure! After all I was only tring to help you.[/quote]
Man I have been told...........
I think my post may have come across worse than I ment to be. Sorry if I have affended you at all Andrew and thanks for your advise on the phone.
I think that for my application (4" total lift) the cranked arms will be great at releving the stress on the bushes at both sides of the arms.
This vehicle is mainly gonna be for offroad the most road drivin it will see should be goin to landcruiser park and back (if it doesnt brake ).
I must say that even swivel bushes will pivot the diff angle downwards on full uptravel.
Anyways I am on a kinda holiday at Airlie Beach right now, so i gotta burn and make the most of it.
Welcome to Outer Limits 4x4 Andrew
hmmm... who is doing re-drilled swivels these days? I have just got some rovertym arms on the way and figured i would need a double cardon driveshaft to cope with the angle weirdness. I'll give that combo a try and see how it works but i can see the logic in the drilled swivel thing. One thing the swivels wouldn't fix is the driveshaft vibration from a lift though - right?
and welcome to the board andrew! great to have some more people that actually make the stuff here.
and welcome to the board andrew! great to have some more people that actually make the stuff here.
ct
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