Cracked block

Post by **NIK** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 3:21 pm

I have a crack in the block under the exhuast manifold!!
I ran some seal it?? through it for a few weeks and it sealed it but as soon as I flushed it out and put in new coolant it leaks worse than before. Does the coolant disolve the sealer? Is there a brand that dosnt.
Nik

Post by **St Jimmy** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 3:49 pm

think it's new block time ring a motor building place and ask them if they use anything

boner

Post by **built4thrashing** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 3:52 pm

get ya self some cast welding rods and weld the crack up.

Post by **rustyvit** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 4:16 pm

I have had success with chemi weld, bars leak and iron tight, you need to follow the process to the letter, sometimes Iv'e had to have a couple of goes though.

Even when successfull I'm wary of what I do with the vehicle from then on.

Post by **NIK** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 4:20 pm

Alloy block so I could get it tig,d not looking forward to taking it out

Only put the motor in a couple of months back and only just had the gearbox out to fix a leak!! Im hoping it can be done in the car?? Otherwise I have to go through all the b/s again of getting a hoist then someone to take it to where its getting fixed then pick it up.....
Nik

Post by **Danzo** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 4:56 pm

Go the 2ltr

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Suzuki-Vitara-Mo ... dZViewItem

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 10:36 pm

Is the crack between the welch plugs? I've seen a couple that leak under the inlet manifold between the welch plugs but not the exhaust side.

Steve.

Post by **NIK** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:11 pm

No its between the last plug and the rear of the motor. Before it leaked it looked like a cast line its about 1" long.
Id love the 2lt but Ive just got the 1600 in and now Im looking at gears, its supose to go real good though.
The stuff I used was called seal up. It says flush the radiator fill it with water run add the stuff then run for half hour then replace with coolent. Maybe try a different brand? A mechanic suggest use something like knead it metal putty to plug it. I was concerned the crack would grow but I supose it would only be doing the same as the other sealers?
Nik

Post by **cutzook** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:39 pm

90% of the time the weld wont seal properly because of all the shit in the coolant and the crack. There is a stuff i used in my old motor called Seal-Up. Excellent stuff, comes in like 100ml bottles. Follow the instructions exactly and it WILL work. It looks clear when sittin on the store shelf but has little bronze coloured flakes in the bottom, shake well and put it in. The cooling system has to be really clean for it to work, but anyways follow the instructions and you'll be sweet.

Hope it helps ya Nik

Cheers Joel

Post by **crackatinny** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 6:48 pm

personally i would use chemi-weld (repco) then clean up the block around the crack with some coarse sandpaper. then put a nice blob of knead it (repco/ mitre 10) over the crack.

Post by **NIK** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:09 pm

Seal up was what I used and it seemed to work until I put coolant in it. I only cleaned it with water first maybe I should try one of those radiator flush products. Then I,ll wack on some metal putty. Its a shame as this motor purrs very nicely.
Nik

Post by **NIK** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:05 pm

Well this time I got Chemiweld and followed the instructions to the letter twice to make sure. This stuff seems to be working. I cant talk badly of the other product but this time the chemiweld seeped out of the crack like tree sap and set rock hard so hopefully it will hold.
Nik

Post by **St Jimmy** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:16 pm

good one. you going to stockton clean up day

if you are i might catch up with you

Post by **NIK** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:27 pm

No back in the shed read "shock hoops"

Oh and I reversed not realising there was a BIG rock behind my diff centre and bent my rear spring

Nik

Post by **St Jimmy** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:32 pm

bugger that

. will catch up soon

Post by **want33s** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:47 pm

NIK wrote:Well this time I got Chemiweld...........Nik

Nasty stuff that ... Be prepared to have your radiator serviced or replaced.

Post by **fool_injected** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:51 pm

repco sell this QBond stuff ~$50
I have used it to fill stripped exhaust stud holes in head (just drill and retap)
Might work for you cracked block
Not a permanent solution though

Post by **bazooked** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 1:37 am

ya need to buy sum tappered ali screws and stitch it, will fix it all the time. i had to fix a 3" long crack following an oil gallery on a bigggg v8 diesel kenworth, worked a treat and saved him thousands.

here is a very good example.
http://www.locknstitch.com/

Post by **NIK** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:04 pm

Its abrand new radiator. The instrutions said as long as the cooling fins arnt exposed to air the chemiweld wont set so it safe to use only sets when it comes out the leak and exposed to air. (I hope)
I,l look into the lock n stick stuff if it dosnt work.
Nik

Post by **Guy** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:50 pm

NIK wrote:Its abrand new radiator. The instrutions said as long as the cooling fins arnt exposed to air the chemiweld wont set so it safe to use only sets when it comes out the leak and exposed to air. (I hope)
I,l look into the lock n stick stuff if it dosnt work.
Nik

That might be what it what it says .. I have seen otherwise ...

Post by **NIK** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:44 pm

Love your sig Lovemud

I HOPE it dosnt hurt the radiator, I tried the other stuff twice and chemiweld once and so far all looks good... famous last words??
Nik

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Cracked block

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