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Rock Sliders

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

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Rock Sliders

Post by santaz351 »

Hi all
Wanna build some rock sliders for my GQ LWB and wanted to know how are they connected to the chassis rails. Does everyone weld/bolt theres to the rails so is there another way?

Thanks
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sliders

Post by KYSI »

the way u should do it is weld on a plate to the chassis around 5 mm thick where the slider bolts onto the chassis then drill out the holes and tap holes so u can bolt it strait on......or if ur lazy just weld them on if ur not planning on removing them
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Re: sliders

Post by 80lsy gq »

KYSI wrote:the way u should do it is weld on a plate to the chassis around 5 mm thick where the slider bolts onto the chassis then drill out the holes and tap holes so u can bolt it strait on......or if ur lazy just weld them on if ur not planning on removing them
actually if you dont want to be reamed by the police and RTA, DOT then you should make them a bolt on..

the ones i sell to people bolt on using u bolts that go around the chassis..Brooksys are also bolt on using a plate style u bolt that goes around the chassis..


dave
www.bolsys.com.au

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Post by +dj_hansen+ »

Going through this at the moment with a mates 80 series. Cheezy sells the weld on plates (10mm backing plate, with 6mm mounting plate for sliders) all tapped inc bolts ready to go for $20 each. Could make them cheaper yourself but they are a perfect fit... up to you.
Cheers,
Dan.

[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
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sliders

Post by KYSI »

lol the cops reem ya for everything anyway, the fact i have cut my chassis down 290mm in my patrol and shortned the tray and moved the gas tank and made up brackets for that in its new location, puting plates on my chassis would be the least of my worrys lol, but its a very good point if ur not in my position, i think the less unroadworthy stuff u do the better, i didnt realise welding a plate on the chassis and tapping it would be that much of a drama as cheezy does this on his sliders
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Post by badger »

yes anyone that welds bar work to a road going car deserves a beating.
technically it can never be rwc'd again. and in the case of an accident all insurance will be void.

i have 80LSYs sliders and they work great best way to mount them and strong as
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sliders

Post by KYSI »

wat kinda bolts r they like u square u bolts? that rap around the chassis? do they still hold up as strong?
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Post by [gubeaut] »

i have 80LSYs sliders and they work great best way to mount them and strong as[/quote]

x2 i put mine on for the logan challenge and i dropped the truck on a lot of rocks and they never moved. couldn't behappier with them
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Post by santaz351 »

can some pics be posted on how peoples sliders have been mounted

thanks
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Post by ELF_83 »

got one issue with U bolts and the like, they hang up all the time when you belly out, and if in rocks makes the winchin harder till it drags the bolts over rock have seen plasma break from winch loadin up cause of U bolts on sliders hanging on rock ledge.
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Post by Cheezy4x4 »

I have 3 engineers (2 Vic and 1 NSW) and RTA Vic and also NSW that say otherwise. :roll:
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
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sliders

Post by KYSI »

lol say otherwise to what? cheezy do u need an engineers to bolt the tray onto the chassis like that white mid wheel base patrol cut into a ute u been working on has been set up
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Post by matthewK »

you could weld to the chassis but its the fastet way to destroy it
get some u bolts made up out of high tens
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Post by GQ4.8coilcab »

Image
Image
Image
the olds man sliders, plates welded to the chassis. I dont agree with welding to the chassis weaking it. Every other bit of bracketry is welded to the chassis thats not gonna make difference.
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Post by AdrianGQ »

Any welding done on a chassis will have an affect on its strength
the welding done in the factory is not just someone at home in there shed that thinks i can weld so i can do it. It is done to a plan that has been designed to maximize strength and minimise the heat affected zones in areas of structural importance
so i would say that if you understand the affect of the heat you will be putting into your chassis where to weld to achieve maximum strength in the sliders with minimum impact on the chassis and are a competent welder then welding would be fine otherwise go the ubolt design

i will be going the ubolt option for ease of getting it engineered [/quote]
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sliders

Post by KYSI »

them pics of the sliders have only bout 30mm stitch welds if the weld was a vertical down it wouldnt put much heat in it at all and i do not think the area would be weakened all that much if any through heat distortion
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Post by macca81 »

those welds are vertical downs by the looks, but vertical ups are stronger.... so less heat and therefore less weakening of the surrounding steel in a v-down, but more likely to break at the weld than a v-up...
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Post by skippy's GQ »

Hey 80lsy ........ where are my sliders?????????????????????????????????? :finger:
88 GQ SWB 5''SUS LIFT 60MM BODY LIFT, FRONT LOKKA, NOW WITH 304, ...... :D

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Post by g60boy »

heres mine:
Image

there 65x10mm flat bar with 4 m12 grade 8 bolts for each mount, 32nb medium black wall tube and 10mm flat bar gussets on the mounts, and the main rails are 40x40x3mm rhs and 32nb medium black wall tube.
mq shorty, black, rust free!!, quarter chop, F&R tube bars and sliders, q78's or 33'' stt's, 4.88's with lsd waiting to be thrown in.. :D http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9540
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Post by Rogue Patrol »

g60boy wrote:heres mine:
Image
This setup wld cause at least some problems for me as my rails tend to slide on the rocks quite often. Damn hangups....
6" GQ, 37" Treps, that is all.....



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Post by Mousie »

By the ADR .. you are not allowed to weld or drll within 200 mm of any other mount ...

an engineer told me this wen i was talking about making some up and a exo
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Mounts

Post by micks troll »

These are the mount I made. The front has 2 high tensil 10mm going through the body mount plates, and the rear two mounts have 2 high tensil 10mm bolts ontop of the chassis rail with a crush tube. The steps are out of 50x50x5 RHS. The rear brackets made from 10 and 12mm plate the only thing under the chassis rail is the 10mm plate. works great!


ImageImage
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Post by g60boy »

Rogue Patrol wrote:
g60boy wrote:heres mine:
Image
This setup wld cause at least some problems for me as my rails tend to slide on the rocks quite often. Damn hangups....
100% true, but mq's (sorry, i forgot to mention that it was a mq) have a big bash plate to cover the transfer case, which was removed when the pic was taken, which will sit even lower that my slider mounts. but i want to encorperate the sliders with a lower profile bash plate later on. cheers.
mq shorty, black, rust free!!, quarter chop, F&R tube bars and sliders, q78's or 33'' stt's, 4.88's with lsd waiting to be thrown in.. :D http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9540
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Post by Rogue Patrol »

g60boy wrote:
Rogue Patrol wrote:
g60boy wrote:heres mine:
Image
This setup wld cause at least some problems for me as my rails tend to slide on the rocks quite often. Damn hangups....
100% true, but mq's (sorry, i forgot to mention that it was a mq) have a big bash plate to cover the transfer case, which was removed when the pic was taken, which will sit even lower that my slider mounts. but i want to encorperate the sliders with a lower profile bash plate later on. cheers.
That'd explain that rather large bolt all by itself half hangin out... :D
6" GQ, 37" Treps, that is all.....



You have the right to remain silent,
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Post by macca81 »

a lower profile plate... hmmm how do you propose that with that damn handbrake where it is??? im just beefing up my bashplate and accepting that it hits at times...
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
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