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EFI windsor engine conversion help
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
EFI windsor engine conversion help
hey guys, im chasing a windsor 5.0 EFI engine wiring diagram. have a gregorys manual but the diagrams are stupid and in parts, im after a single page engine diagram from ecu out.
tried calling ford but they wouldnt even sell me a diagram and the auto sparky down the road wouldnt either. im happy to give it to someone if they know what theyre doing but they all want to be able to start the motor and it isnt in yet.
if there is an auto sparky on here who knows what and where everything goes im more than happy to pay for it to get done as i hate wiring looms
if there is someone on here who has done the conversion and kept all the diagrams they had im willing to pay for the diagrams aswell.
Cheers
Evan
tried calling ford but they wouldnt even sell me a diagram and the auto sparky down the road wouldnt either. im happy to give it to someone if they know what theyre doing but they all want to be able to start the motor and it isnt in yet.
if there is an auto sparky on here who knows what and where everything goes im more than happy to pay for it to get done as i hate wiring looms
if there is someone on here who has done the conversion and kept all the diagrams they had im willing to pay for the diagrams aswell.
Cheers
Evan
Last edited by chunderlicious on Sun Mar 23, 2008 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
Try fordmods, I think they have a heap of stuff on their site and their forums can be pretty good too.
This is the link if I remember correctly.
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/portal.php
This is the link if I remember correctly.
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/portal.php
hey man, also try one or both of these... may help....
cheers
jason
http://www.fordforums.com.au/index.php?
http://www.fordaustraliaforums.com/forum/
cheers
jason
http://www.fordforums.com.au/index.php?
http://www.fordaustraliaforums.com/forum/
Have you heard about this new thing called GOOGLE, it's awesome for finding stuff.
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6
If you can't get it running with this link theres something wrong.
I'll accept a Paypal payment or cash or bourbon
PS: You still got those Rancho's.. Sorry I forgot all about them.
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6
If you can't get it running with this link theres something wrong.
I'll accept a Paypal payment or cash or bourbon
PS: You still got those Rancho's.. Sorry I forgot all about them.
Last edited by want33s on Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Evan
I can probably help out with a diagram but my scanner is RS, however I maybe able to scan it at work. What model ECU and engine are you using.
However, the Ford system is basically stand alone, ie the engine harness plugs into the ecu and the various sensors etc etc and comes with 3 relays and a positive and negative that are connected directly to the battery.
You then connect ignition from the key and the guage wires and its done
Do you have a factory wiring harness ?
I can probably help out with a diagram but my scanner is RS, however I maybe able to scan it at work. What model ECU and engine are you using.
However, the Ford system is basically stand alone, ie the engine harness plugs into the ecu and the various sensors etc etc and comes with 3 relays and a positive and negative that are connected directly to the battery.
You then connect ignition from the key and the guage wires and its done
Do you have a factory wiring harness ?
You should actually have 2 harnesses
One with the ecu attachment plug which also has 2 large multi pin plugs attached. These connect to a separate engine harness which I assume is still attached to your engine
I've also got some spare harnesses and will endeavour to locate them and I can take a pic and indicate what goes where. Will also scan a diagram tomorrow.
What vehicle are you fitting this to.
JD
One with the ecu attachment plug which also has 2 large multi pin plugs attached. These connect to a separate engine harness which I assume is still attached to your engine
I've also got some spare harnesses and will endeavour to locate them and I can take a pic and indicate what goes where. Will also scan a diagram tomorrow.
What vehicle are you fitting this to.
JD
a big heavy patrol. have big plans including 351 stroker but need to get it running right now
$1485 at dellows will buy me;
bellhousing
spigot bearing
brand new flywheel, ring gear and bolts
clutch plate
pressure plate
shaft extension
clutch slave relocation thingy.
all shipped to my door.
not too bad. im only getting bellhousing, slave relocation and input shaft extension. they didnt quote me for that but itll hopefully be less.
what pressure plates and clutch combos have people used?
$1485 at dellows will buy me;
bellhousing
spigot bearing
brand new flywheel, ring gear and bolts
clutch plate
pressure plate
shaft extension
clutch slave relocation thingy.
all shipped to my door.
not too bad. im only getting bellhousing, slave relocation and input shaft extension. they didnt quote me for that but itll hopefully be less.
what pressure plates and clutch combos have people used?
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=40
That's the one you want.
94 build will have Smartlock which will give you dramas. Either find a non-smartlock ECU (pre october 92) or Ford sell a bypass unit.
That's the one you want.
94 build will have Smartlock which will give you dramas. Either find a non-smartlock ECU (pre october 92) or Ford sell a bypass unit.
legend, thanks mate.Captain Datto wrote:http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=40
That's the one you want.
94 build will have Smartlock which will give you dramas. Either find a non-smartlock ECU (pre october 92) or Ford sell a bypass unit.
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
Along with the above you're in luck as I was searching my pics for a harness pic and found this which should make it a lot easier
http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/g ... Pinout.gif
I'd agree with Captain Datto and get an early 5.0 ecu, ie EB,ED as they are much easier and match all this info etc.
JD
http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/g ... Pinout.gif
I'd agree with Captain Datto and get an early 5.0 ecu, ie EB,ED as they are much easier and match all this info etc.
JD
ok ive got the bits together im now after some clarification.
the windsor i got uses a serpentine belt (ill be going to gilmor belt before its running most likely) the current idler pulley hits on the panhard brace on the chassis. what can be done other than remove the pulley?
the engine needs to be mounted with a 3 degree slant to the passenger side, will this cause any problems with the poe poe while its still driving on the road?
is 5mm enough clearance between motor and body? the engine mounts are 60 series rubber bushes in tube.
pics in a sec
the windsor i got uses a serpentine belt (ill be going to gilmor belt before its running most likely) the current idler pulley hits on the panhard brace on the chassis. what can be done other than remove the pulley?
the engine needs to be mounted with a 3 degree slant to the passenger side, will this cause any problems with the poe poe while its still driving on the road?
is 5mm enough clearance between motor and body? the engine mounts are 60 series rubber bushes in tube.
pics in a sec
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
I am the guy on 4wd monthly that the Windsor into the Maverick.
You need to convert to a V belt drive setup for it to all fit.
I got the conversion kit from Dellow and most of it was shite. I only used the bell housing. Made the rest to suit.
The wiring I just used the diagrams off ford forums combined with diagrams I got sent by the guy at www.shiftkits.com.au.
I got the smart lock bypass off him as well as frequency modulator you will need for an auto ecu so it doesntthink it is idling all the time and retard ignition advance.
It is aslow labour intensive process but is pretty easy. Basically I had the looms and anything that either came off the ecu of was connected to the engine I kept. Ditched the rest.
Im trying to fix up my photobucket account at the moment to put some pics up for you. Im happy to help where I can but shoot me a message to help ya here cause I forget to check these things.
Actually PM me for my mobile number. You get stuck ring me and we will see what we can do.
Most people say it cannot be done but it can be and the results are well worth the effort.
You need to convert to a V belt drive setup for it to all fit.
I got the conversion kit from Dellow and most of it was shite. I only used the bell housing. Made the rest to suit.
The wiring I just used the diagrams off ford forums combined with diagrams I got sent by the guy at www.shiftkits.com.au.
I got the smart lock bypass off him as well as frequency modulator you will need for an auto ecu so it doesntthink it is idling all the time and retard ignition advance.
It is aslow labour intensive process but is pretty easy. Basically I had the looms and anything that either came off the ecu of was connected to the engine I kept. Ditched the rest.
Im trying to fix up my photobucket account at the moment to put some pics up for you. Im happy to help where I can but shoot me a message to help ya here cause I forget to check these things.
Actually PM me for my mobile number. You get stuck ring me and we will see what we can do.
Most people say it cannot be done but it can be and the results are well worth the effort.
Here is a pic of mine after the V vbelt conversion.
To do it you need a KC early model timing cover. They bolt straight up.
Cleveland bottom pulley. XY Vintage water pump. The new model one wont fit. Cleveland water pump pulley will bolt on. We had to modify the length on mine.
Cleveland alt mounts. Over the counter redline ones do the job fine.
Im running a bosch alt from a Merc. Was $275 brand new puts out 120 Amps. Will push 45amps at idle.
Get rid of you engine fan it will never work. You cannot get the motor high enough inthe bay for the fan to be in the centre of the radiator. The top of the manifold will hit the heater pipes.
To do it you need a KC early model timing cover. They bolt straight up.
Cleveland bottom pulley. XY Vintage water pump. The new model one wont fit. Cleveland water pump pulley will bolt on. We had to modify the length on mine.
Cleveland alt mounts. Over the counter redline ones do the job fine.
Im running a bosch alt from a Merc. Was $275 brand new puts out 120 Amps. Will push 45amps at idle.
Get rid of you engine fan it will never work. You cannot get the motor high enough inthe bay for the fan to be in the centre of the radiator. The top of the manifold will hit the heater pipes.
fans going but it wont come off the waterpump, appears to be seized.
thanks for that much appreciated. i will be getting a new waterpump and alt anyway as the fan is stuck and ive been using the alt to level the engine for insertion into the bay.
you did exactly what im doing for wiring loom, i just need to find the motivation and lack of any other thing else to do (including sitting infront of the TV)
what did you do for extractors?
thanks for that much appreciated. i will be getting a new waterpump and alt anyway as the fan is stuck and ive been using the alt to level the engine for insertion into the bay.
you did exactly what im doing for wiring loom, i just need to find the motivation and lack of any other thing else to do (including sitting infront of the TV)
what did you do for extractors?
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
The fan is a prick of a thing to remove. Mine came off with a gas axe.
Extractors were custom made on mine. The first set was a choose your own adventure set that we knocked up to get it running and engineered. When the $$$'s got a bit healthier I had a custom set made. Cost was $750 for the extractors and Y piece down to the cat. 1 3/4 primarys , 2" secondarys and into a 2.5" collector.
In the future I will put a 3" single on it for more noise but there was already a near new 2.5 single on mine so we stuck with that.
Extractors were custom made on mine. The first set was a choose your own adventure set that we knocked up to get it running and engineered. When the $$$'s got a bit healthier I had a custom set made. Cost was $750 for the extractors and Y piece down to the cat. 1 3/4 primarys , 2" secondarys and into a 2.5" collector.
In the future I will put a 3" single on it for more noise but there was already a near new 2.5 single on mine so we stuck with that.
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