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Mazda springs q's And pics*
Big test today!! Technical rocks and dropouts perfect ride height, feels like i can take on anything slowly no matter how steep it i. Very stable, no balancing acts etc.
Perfect soft ride on road! Handles well over bumps mid corner etc!
Although the catch offroad is...
* I am bumpstoping out on the slightest sudden divot on dirt tracks etc...Farkin annoying.
Solution: Maybe move the shackle mounts front and back so it lifts her alitte off the bumpstop, If it doesnt work, Add another leaf in the packs
* The front diff is alittle too far forward which makes the tyres pretty much fold hard around the front of the wheelwell in the front. Lucky its all smooth. But annoying also.
Solution: Cant redrill as its too little mm to redrill (Holes will join together) Or virtual lift, new under guard sheeting so there is more clearence at the front.
* And she leans alot to the right, Thinking of swapping spring sides
I love the look of tyres in a guard under flexing
Perfect soft ride on road! Handles well over bumps mid corner etc!
Although the catch offroad is...
* I am bumpstoping out on the slightest sudden divot on dirt tracks etc...Farkin annoying.
Solution: Maybe move the shackle mounts front and back so it lifts her alitte off the bumpstop, If it doesnt work, Add another leaf in the packs
* The front diff is alittle too far forward which makes the tyres pretty much fold hard around the front of the wheelwell in the front. Lucky its all smooth. But annoying also.
Solution: Cant redrill as its too little mm to redrill (Holes will join together) Or virtual lift, new under guard sheeting so there is more clearence at the front.
* And she leans alot to the right, Thinking of swapping spring sides
I love the look of tyres in a guard under flexing
I am Tim
I'd say commy shocks are not ideal, probably limiting travel and actually too stiff if they are in good nick. If they are soft and not helping with the bumps then they are probably very worn. I would invest in some decent after market shocks.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
Flexxy pics as ordered...Tested today also
A mate being abit cheeky on that last pic
Suzy now flexes as much or more then a stock 08' jk
Found out the rear right main 323 leaf is bent up, Dont know how it happened, may be a freak thing. This is why it leans heaps in the rear on flat ground.. Dont know what to do for the moment..
Still have to move shackle mount as the dont go completely vertical on drops. Will give more drop i think, Just fine tuning..
A mate being abit cheeky on that last pic
Suzy now flexes as much or more then a stock 08' jk
Found out the rear right main 323 leaf is bent up, Dont know how it happened, may be a freak thing. This is why it leans heaps in the rear on flat ground.. Dont know what to do for the moment..
Still have to move shackle mount as the dont go completely vertical on drops. Will give more drop i think, Just fine tuning..
I am Tim
Springs are bent after the test run,
From back under tank
Left hand side, similar but not as bad.
Massive shackle angle
The stock rear as ruf, They are separating because of the weight on the tips of the spring.Looks as though they will probably bend also after a while..
The second leafs are too short, But thats how they came stock off the mazda... I now realise its a problem, But didnt know before i started..
From back under tank
Left hand side, similar but not as bad.
Massive shackle angle
The stock rear as ruf, They are separating because of the weight on the tips of the spring.Looks as though they will probably bend also after a while..
The second leafs are too short, But thats how they came stock off the mazda... I now realise its a problem, But didnt know before i started..
I am Tim
With the realitive cost of the springs I would not be to fussed, the ones you have are not throw aways yet ... get another set of leaves and make up some hybrids ...
Do you have access to a press ?
If so pull the bent packs apart lop either end off the main leaf (leaving it as long as absloutelty possible and cold reset the main leaf in the press.
To reset the leaf you need to start at one end, with the spring at right angles to the press, Bring the ram down until it is just in contact with the single leaf you have in the press, now give the press two or three full pumps (pushes the spring down between the platform on the press) let the pressure off and move along about 10 cm, repeat until you get to the other end.
Put this leaf in as your new second leaf in your pack as a full length leaf to help support the main leaf and stop it from devloping weak spots. You may need to G clamp or similar to assemble your new leaf pack, I would even make the third leaf a little longer.
I would also run a little taller spring and a bit of a Bumpstop spacing to not allow the spring to go past flat.
Running a couple of full length mains you will not bring the spring rate up to much, so it will still flex nicely, but you will take a heap of stress of the top leaf and have better ability to put power to the ground ( less axle wrap) all for pocket change and an afternoon of quality garage time.
Do you have access to a press ?
If so pull the bent packs apart lop either end off the main leaf (leaving it as long as absloutelty possible and cold reset the main leaf in the press.
To reset the leaf you need to start at one end, with the spring at right angles to the press, Bring the ram down until it is just in contact with the single leaf you have in the press, now give the press two or three full pumps (pushes the spring down between the platform on the press) let the pressure off and move along about 10 cm, repeat until you get to the other end.
Put this leaf in as your new second leaf in your pack as a full length leaf to help support the main leaf and stop it from devloping weak spots. You may need to G clamp or similar to assemble your new leaf pack, I would even make the third leaf a little longer.
I would also run a little taller spring and a bit of a Bumpstop spacing to not allow the spring to go past flat.
Running a couple of full length mains you will not bring the spring rate up to much, so it will still flex nicely, but you will take a heap of stress of the top leaf and have better ability to put power to the ground ( less axle wrap) all for pocket change and an afternoon of quality garage time.
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God Of Emo
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From the look of your springs, you may be suffering from spring wrap, and over,compression of the main leaf. When you build your next pack, leave the spring clamps done up and see how it goes. I know this goes against the idea of getting the most flex, but by clamping them together you help to contain the wrap. You could fit a track bar as well.
Layto....
Layto....
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Im am now wondering what to do about the main mazda leafs.
I think im going to be rebending the mazda main straight again and keeping it as a main..
I have found some other leafs the same width and length, but the curls for the bushes are the wrong size. So i was going to cut them off and use as a 2nd leaf for support, with redrilled hole for the locator.
They are out of a Ke55 rolla
I think im going to be rebending the mazda main straight again and keeping it as a main..
I have found some other leafs the same width and length, but the curls for the bushes are the wrong size. So i was going to cut them off and use as a 2nd leaf for support, with redrilled hole for the locator.
They are out of a Ke55 rolla
I am Tim
i havent touched my leafs yet i been too busy but damn do i want to do it. the car is so dangerous atm in the wet cause they so stiff, i wont even let the misses drive it cause it so loose. fun for me and my mates but still very dangerous for her.
im going to do the rears up front and try some jeep rears for the back with chassis mount extensions. thanks to nicbeer. we'll see how this goes.
im going to do the rears up front and try some jeep rears for the back with chassis mount extensions. thanks to nicbeer. we'll see how this goes.
These arent mazda but I thought I should keep long springs in one thread?
I picked up by 3" longer main and 2nd leaves today to add to my ome packs.
I tried them with a shackle that is 5" from bolt to bolt, this is how they sit havnt tried flex yet.
Other side stock ome
Now I have to make up some stronger shackles so should I try the 5" ones to see how the compression is or go 6" to lessen the angle?
I have to ask as I dont normally run longer shackles but it looks like they are the go with longer springs.
Nik
I picked up by 3" longer main and 2nd leaves today to add to my ome packs.
I tried them with a shackle that is 5" from bolt to bolt, this is how they sit havnt tried flex yet.
Other side stock ome
Now I have to make up some stronger shackles so should I try the 5" ones to see how the compression is or go 6" to lessen the angle?
I have to ask as I dont normally run longer shackles but it looks like they are the go with longer springs.
Nik
i think that shackle angle is fine Nik...its not overly crazy....
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
That shackle angle is sweet as it is, so I would stick with 5 inch or maybe 5.5 to factor in a little sag but no bigger. IMHO 45 degrees or a little more is ideal for flex, ride and comfort.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
I was having issues with lateral movement on WT diffs and 34s on the front diff with 2 inch longer than standard shackles so I braced the front but left the rear open which seemed fine. maybe drill a hole and brace with a sleeved M10 bolt or something. that way its removable if you need to.
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
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