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Limited Slip In a Wide Trake
Limited Slip In a Wide Trake
are there any vitaras that you can use a limmy out of for a wide track ?
yes but extremely rare and never in AUS.. your better off with a jimny rear lsd (it bolts straight in but you have to change ratios) but as said in another post here if you thought or know of toyota lsd's they are shit then honestly save time and money and stick with a open sierra diff as jimny lsd's are worse... not going into the arb air lockers are the Poo bs !!!!! ( poo = THE shit/ bomb..)
cheers mark
cheers mark
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
how embarrasing, getting stuck.alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
michael
11_evl wrote:how embarrasing, getting stuck.alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers. Just remember, there are some instances when you are offroad when permanent lockers can be more of a hindrance than a help.
i agree also, and i believe a welded diff is more unpredictable than an lsd. i've had experiance with sook diffs and japanese lsd's, and let me tell, they are not such a bad thing, but for price the air locker is the only diff for me.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grailRockHopper wrote:11_evl wrote:how embarrasing, getting stuck.alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. like i said i have alot of experience with jap suzuki lsd's and if you can get your hands on one cheap enough they are a good thing, and i'm not talkin about a hot-rodded one, i'm talking about either genuine or jap aftermarket suzuki model, and not tojo. they are rare but are a good thing. oh...and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.VR Rodeo wrote:Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grailRockHopper wrote:11_evl wrote:how embarrasing, getting stuck.alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
My point exactly, both have their faultsjoeblow wrote:don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. AgreedVR Rodeo wrote:Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grailRockHopper wrote:11_evl wrote:how embarrasing, getting stuck.alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
I agree also, but I know which one I'd rather have . Back on topic, I was on the Calmini site today and found the make an lsd for the rear diff on the Sierra's. http://www.puresuzuki.com/Limited_Slip.htm . I don't know what they're like, but it's an optionVR Rodeo wrote:My point exactly, both have their faultsjoeblow wrote:don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. AgreedVR Rodeo wrote:Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grailRockHopper wrote:11_evl wrote: how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.
joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSDjoeblow wrote:don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. like i said i have alot of experience with jap suzuki lsd's and if you can get your hands on one cheap enough they are a good thing, and i'm not talkin about a hot-rodded one, i'm talking about either genuine or jap aftermarket suzuki model, and not tojo. they are rare but are a good thing. oh...and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.VR Rodeo wrote:Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grailRockHopper wrote:11_evl wrote:how embarrasing, getting stuck.alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers
If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
putting yourself in situations where its tricky to get out of is most of the fun for me =) depending on the obstacle ill go 2wd first, then 4 hi, then 4 low, then the locker if need be... getting stuck is fun!!!11_evl wrote: how embarrasing, getting stuck.
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
www.lowrangeoffroad.comofr57 wrote: joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD
dunno why you'd want an LSD though.
Jas.
want33s wrote:www.lowrangeoffroad.comofr57 wrote: joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD
dunno why you'd want an LSD though.
Jas.
the reason why ted is looking this way is due to some classes of compertion's dont allow lockers ... and since import sierra came with an LSD it seems better to have then nothing
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
This was probably meant for me to bight but anyway....joeblow wrote:i mean price compared to slippery and air locker not amatuer lockrights..........
Just because someone cannot afford air lockers they are amateurs?
Your' posts certainly do annoy me more than anyone elses on this forum.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
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