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New ARB Compressor Cutaway Pic and thoughts
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
My setup:
Compressor to water seperator to manifold. The manifold houses the solenoid for the front locker (rear locker is electric), the air then goes to my 2.5 gallon warn tank with quick connect and guage.
The tank is good but I should have gotten the 5 gallon.
Pics here:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... old-7.html
Compressor to water seperator to manifold. The manifold houses the solenoid for the front locker (rear locker is electric), the air then goes to my 2.5 gallon warn tank with quick connect and guage.
The tank is good but I should have gotten the 5 gallon.
Pics here:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... old-7.html
ahh sorry, wrong one...dbongard wrote:CKMA12
'C'ompressor
'K'it
'M'edium volume
'A'ir locker
'12' volt
CKSA12 is the Small version that's not ideal for inflating tyres.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
while your here can you possibly shed any light on this question i asked the other day?
Dee wrote:anyone know if its saft to mount these things on their side?
I don't know what the go is re: oiling etc so Im not sure if it could be or if it has to sit upright. I was thinking about mounting it up under passenger dash on the firewall but didn't wanna have to fab a bracket to mount it upright...
All the gear, No idea...
Any position is fine. Upside down on your chassis rail if you want to. So long as you position the air filter housing somewhere cool and dry either by altering the compressor position or extending the filter position with an extension tube.Dee wrote: while your here can you possibly shed any light on this question i asked the other day?
Dee wrote:anyone know if its saft to mount these things on their side?
I don't know what the go is re: oiling etc so Im not sure if it could be or if it has to sit upright. I was thinking about mounting it up under passenger dash on the firewall but didn't wanna have to fab a bracket to mount it upright...
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
We certainly set up that possibility. Time will tell. Right now one of the biggest selling features of the CKMA12 is its small size. All the other compressors with comparable flow out there are almost twice the size of it, and some people still struggle finding a place to shoehorn it into.lshobie wrote:So is there a CMLA12 coming out in the future??? Small, medium, large sounds like the next step:)
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
in regards to water in the compessor line,
you have to cool the air before it gets into the tank, And have a drain at the low spot.
after threcompressor If you run a bit of copper across the front of the radiator twice and then a piece of hose that droops to bumper level with a t piece at the low point and a drain, thats all you need to capture the condensation and have a water free air system.
Jes
you have to cool the air before it gets into the tank, And have a drain at the low spot.
after threcompressor If you run a bit of copper across the front of the radiator twice and then a piece of hose that droops to bumper level with a t piece at the low point and a drain, thats all you need to capture the condensation and have a water free air system.
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
dbongard wrote:CKMA12
'C'ompressor
'K'it
'M'edium volume
'A'ir locker
'12' volt
CKSA12 is the Small version that's not ideal for inflating tyres.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
Cheersdbongard wrote:(note : our RRP is $290.00)
daniel
Air Locker
Is this the price at ARB stores, or every where it's sold
Hoppy
[quote="RAY185"]Oh, and being able to lick your eyebrows is a sure way into a womans "heart". ;)[/quote]
Can you elaborate? I am just a dumb sparkie...jessie928 wrote:in regards to water in the compessor line,
you have to cool the air before it gets into the tank, And have a drain at the low spot.
after threcompressor If you run a bit of copper across the front of the radiator twice and then a piece of hose that droops to bumper level with a t piece at the low point and a drain, thats all you need to capture the condensation and have a water free air system.
Jes
elaborate, hmm im not that articulate, but here goes.lump_a_charcoal wrote:Can you elaborate? I am just a dumb sparkie...jessie928 wrote:in regards to water in the compessor line,
you have to cool the air before it gets into the tank, And have a drain at the low spot.
after threcompressor If you run a bit of copper across the front of the radiator twice and then a piece of hose that droops to bumper level with a t piece at the low point and a drain, thats all you need to capture the condensation and have a water free air system.
Jes
the main air line from the compressor, run that to the front of the truck, to the front of the radiator
then get a bit of copper tube, run it ( horizontally) along the radiator,starting from the top put a bend in in when you get to the other side and run it back along the radiator so you are back where you started ( you can do this twice if you like. )
then get a bit of hose onto the output of the copper tube and run it down to your chassis . Put a t piece in it, ( make sure teh free end is pointing down) and run it back upto where you started.
then you can run the pipe back to yoru regulator,filter/switch block.
on the t piece you put below next to the chassis, attach a TAP so you can let water out.
this system will capture most if not all of the moisture in the lines before it gets to the regulator. because it cools the air in the lines as it goes past the copper across teh radiator and the drop in the line will catch the water.
hope that helps
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
it will work teh best as long as the engine is running.lump_a_charcoal wrote:Ok that would only work when you are driving though wouldn't it?
( or just your electric thermo fan if you have one)
even if the engine is not running, copper will dissipate heat quickly,
as the air goes from rubber to copper, it will still cool down a tad
Ideally, you want a finned copper tube, found on stationary air compressors.
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
If you are worried about water in your diff-locks then this should do the trick.lump_a_charcoal wrote:Ok that would only work when you are driving though wouldn't it?
http://www.arb.com.au/resources/pdf/airLockers/4-04.pdf
It splices inline right at the diff.
It turns the air system into a one-directional system and cycles the water out onto the road. It also allows you to push the button and purge air straight from your compressor manifold out the exhaust port at the diff (to get rid of dust and moisture etc.)
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
Make a CKLA12 and I will buy it. The size of the compressor is offsett by the lack of needing a tank to inflate tyres in less than a century.dbongard wrote:We certainly set up that possibility. Time will tell. Right now one of the biggest selling features of the CKMA12 is its small size. All the other compressors with comparable flow out there are almost twice the size of it, and some people still struggle finding a place to shoehorn it into.lshobie wrote:So is there a CMLA12 coming out in the future??? Small, medium, large sounds like the next step:)
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
I have had one of the new 12V air compressor's (CKMA12) for over a year now. It's filled up 4 33" tyres at least 5 times a month in that time and still runs a treat. I haven't heard anything bad said about them either. The unit is installed behind the rear seat in the dual cab running to a moisture trap than to a Nitto style fitting.
IMO it produces no more moisture than any other compressor I've ever used. All compressors produce moisture and humid days will naturally produce more moisture. If your worried about it than install a moisture trap.
IMO it produces no more moisture than any other compressor I've ever used. All compressors produce moisture and humid days will naturally produce more moisture. If your worried about it than install a moisture trap.
Mine failed this week, i had only had it for 6 months and only used 6 times.
What happend was where the shaft that attaches to the bit thats attached to the motor (The bit that goes round and makes the piston go up and down) Is only held on by a 4mm Bolt. This bolt has sheered off.
It is in with ARB to assess and repair or replace.
Hope it's back to me by next saturday.
Cheers
What happend was where the shaft that attaches to the bit thats attached to the motor (The bit that goes round and makes the piston go up and down) Is only held on by a 4mm Bolt. This bolt has sheered off.
It is in with ARB to assess and repair or replace.
Hope it's back to me by next saturday.
Cheers
Hookers are like bowling balls, You pick them up, put your fingers in them, then throw them in the gutter and they come back for more.
We had a few in the early builds that had oversized female threads that the bolt went into. The bolt doesn't actually shear off. It loosens up and backs out and then fatigues until it breaks. We're not happy about it either, but it is corrected now, we accept that it is no fault of the customer and ARB will take care of it for you no questions asked.84ZOOKSTA wrote:Mine failed this week, i had only had it for 6 months and only used 6 times.
What happend was where the shaft that attaches to the bit thats attached to the motor (The bit that goes round and makes the piston go up and down) Is only held on by a 4mm Bolt. This bolt has sheered off.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
dbongard wrote:We had a few in the early builds that had oversized female threads that the bolt went into. The bolt doesn't actually shear off. It loosens up and backs out and then fatigues until it breaks. We're not happy about it either, but it is corrected now, we accept that it is no fault of the customer and ARB will take care of it for you no questions asked.84ZOOKSTA wrote:Mine failed this week, i had only had it for 6 months and only used 6 times.
What happend was where the shaft that attaches to the bit thats attached to the motor (The bit that goes round and makes the piston go up and down) Is only held on by a 4mm Bolt. This bolt has sheered off.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
Other than the bolt breaking it is a good compressor, Yes it does get hot and Yes it is noisy but compared to the cheap ones that say they are rated at 90-150lt per min it shits over them and is more efficent with a much lower current drain than the chinese ones.
Cheers
Hookers are like bowling balls, You pick them up, put your fingers in them, then throw them in the gutter and they come back for more.
If this is a known fault, is there a recall on certain serial numbers or build dates?dbongard wrote:
We had a few in the early builds that had oversized female threads that the bolt went into. The bolt doesn't actually shear off. It loosens up and backs out and then fatigues until it breaks. We're not happy about it either, but it is corrected now, we accept that it is no fault of the customer and ARB will take care of it for you no questions asked.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
We shouldn't have to wait until it fails to have it replaced.
Don't want to be in the bush or halfway through a comp stage and have it fail due to a known problem.
marin
Rum injected
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
It was totally random and effected less than 1 in 500 units.marin wrote:
If this is a known fault, is there a recall on certain serial numbers or build dates?
We shouldn't have to wait until it fails to have it replaced.
Don't want to be in the bush or halfway through a comp stage and have it fail due to a known problem.
marin
Most companies wouldn't even admit to it at all unless it effected more than 3% (over 15 in 500 units).
If you have run it hard a few times and not had a problem then you should be set for life.
If you're worried then just give it a bit of hard work at home in the garage.
We designed them for heavy use...so don't be shy with it.
They like a good workout!
Then if all is OK after you're done then you can rest assured.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
Mine just had the crank bolt come loose and bust, I contacted ARB and a quick picture was sent and a new compressor is being shipped to me - hassle free. I am completely happy with ARB for the way they handled this, pretty refreshing in todays chinese made crap marketplace.
Well done ARB.
Louis
Well done ARB.
Louis
HZJ79, 1HZ turbo, intercooled, 36" SS TSL's, ARB air, ARB front locker, factory electric rear locker, Dual batteries, Dual fuse blocks, 8274,
Check out my videos: www.youtube.com/lshobie
Check out my videos: www.youtube.com/lshobie
I am very happy with the 3 day turn around that ARB did,
I spoke to the guy at the shop and he said there was no way i would get it fixed or replaced in a week.
All it took was 3 Days and it was replaced with a new one.
Lets just hope the new one i got does not break the bolt off this time.
Cheers
I spoke to the guy at the shop and he said there was no way i would get it fixed or replaced in a week.
All it took was 3 Days and it was replaced with a new one.
Lets just hope the new one i got does not break the bolt off this time.
Cheers
Hookers are like bowling balls, You pick them up, put your fingers in them, then throw them in the gutter and they come back for more.
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