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Just some updated pics on build up and where my setup is at so far, still waiting on longer shocks to gain any benifit as they are already limiting with the 3/4 clamped still.
v840 wrote:Have you thought about extending your wheelbase at the rear by 6" or so?
Would probably work wonders for your ride and would look heaps better too. Just an idea.
Ps. Love the sticker.
Yea gr I’ve been wondering did you buy your sierra already cut?
I’m just wondering what the purpose of your tray is? To be honest the only time I’d ever cut a sierra into a ute.. actually I never would.. but I don’t understand why someone would do it without stretching the wheelbase at least 10”. I would have been doing the wheelbase stretch long before even thinking about a ¾…
Check out rhetts rig (before buggied). Running a couple of long lux leaves in the rear (offset centre pin). Couple this with a good shackle angle, some custom well placed shock mounts & move the tank & you wouldn’t need to bother with the ¾.
This isn't a ute chop thread so can we please keep it about 3/4 elliptic and not start 4 pages of I hate/love/why/how could you/there's no point/it looks great.
However, without discussing chops, I'm building a car ATM with 10" longer than stock rear springs that provide about 6" of wheelbase extension and about 13" of vertical wheeltravel - with no buggy leaf. This car is going to spank a buggy, but requires lots of chassis length to work - we're doing it on a LWB trayback.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
just saying i'd ratherr put the work towards the added flex of longer leaves/sharp shackle angle, & added stability of extended wheelbase, before I went attempting a 3/4 setup, especially when he already has the available space due to the ute chop...
Then at a later date if that wasnt enough, try the 3/4...
Without reference to the aesthetic qualities of the chop itself, I agree - I think all the work going into getting the rear to flex is being undone by have such a short WB. 6" or so of stretch would look and work lots better.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Yeah yeah if anyone has paid attention to my recent posts elsewhere I am planning on moving the rear diff back. Probably not 6 inches but it will go back a bit. I bought it already ute chopped and got a bargain and I like it. The 3/4 appealed to me cause it is tuneable unlike wacky shackles and I could do all the work myself with bits I had lying around. I don't have the time/money/effort to do full custom 10" longer leaf with chassis ext setups. I only wanted to match the rear flex to the front.
After all this shit bagging I might get off my butt and move the diff back tomorrow. Still don't have the longer shocks though as 4wd Stuff got sent the wrong ones in his supply shipment.
Disregard the circle in the pics it was to ask a question when I was setting it up still and is in another thread.
I will supply pics in detail when I get it all completed and I'm happy with it, I'm clamping the leaf with two thick pieces of flat bar and bolts so I can slide the clamp to adjust the amount of droop, I don't want alot really.
I wouldn't take it as a bagging mate, just what people would like to see you do with your car for the best possible outcome. I think you'll be happy with the result when you get it done.
zookimal wrote:I wouldn't take it as a bagging mate, just what people would like to see you do with your car for the best possible outcome. I think you'll be happy with the result when you get it done.
Outers has spoken. Stretch your goddamn car!
I know the results would be good, but atm I have other things to spend time and money on, like the blown motor in my commodore that is going to cost me a good $10K
zookimal wrote:I wouldn't take it as a bagging mate, just what people would like to see you do with your car for the best possible outcome. I think you'll be happy with the result when you get it done.
Outers has spoken. Stretch your goddamn car!
I know the results would be good, but atm I have other things to spend time and money on, like the blown motor in my commodore that is going to cost me a good $10K
zookimal wrote:I wouldn't take it as a bagging mate, just what people would like to see you do with your car for the best possible outcome. I think you'll be happy with the result when you get it done.
Outers has spoken. Stretch your goddamn car!
I know the results would be good, but atm I have other things to spend time and money on, like the blown motor in my commodore that is going to cost me a good $10K
how much have you spent doing this set up so far GRPABT1? Have you tried to flex it unpinned without shocks to measure how long you will need? What type of shocks are you looking to buy for this set up
just looking at how i could pull this off the sarvo and passenger side is no problem but how have people got around the guard thing that stops your fuel line from being split inside your wheel arch? Does this need to be modified? or removed? any answers or pics would be great
Most people just remove the expansion chamber (a pita as mine is gone and leaks fuel sometimes) and tie back the fuel filler.
I haven't flexed it up without the shock cause I am lazy and don't have anything around the home to flex it that far. I am getting some 12 way adjustable boss shocks off 4WD STUFF on here for about $400 a pair in about 700mm long and building a custom top mount. So far is has cost me nothing as I had the springs already and the steel I got from work, it's alot cheaper than drop shackles even if you have to find some second hand springs.
I have been looking other places and this seems to be very popular between jeep owners but they dont use a extra full half of the other spring. With a WT sierra does a whole half need to be used?
Zook_Fan wrote:I have been looking other places and this seems to be very popular between jeep owners but they dont use a extra full half of the other spring. With a WT sierra does a whole half need to be used?
You can make it as long as you want, all depends on how much flex you want.
I just used the main leaf off a stock rear spring. Cut it off just a couple of inches past the spring mounting point. I attached it to the chassis rail with two u bolts directly above the the mounting of the spring pack below. I never had any issues with u bolts coming undone or the spring working loose. For me and my setup and uses it was a great mod and very easy to do
Zook_Fan wrote:yeah but there would be like an ideal ratio between flex and outright madness and i was just wondering what ppl thought
Realistically you'll be limited by wheelbase track width on how much flex you can use before falling over.
3/4 setups are really easy to simply dial in how much flex you want by moving the point you clamp the spring at. All will come clear to you when I show completed pics of my setup.
so with your clamp set up your going to allow the clamp to slide along the steel plate you put in to restrict the spring at certain points depending on conditions?
no, you will need two seperate rear springs as you need two leaves each with a centre hole and shackle sized bushes. Rear springs have different sized bushes for each end.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.